Early fj steering wheel restoration

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If you guys need my contact or shipping info pm me.
 
Birdhead said:
I think j can make it look pretty good. You and dino are the first to ask so I'll be able to do yours and his right away
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The one I sold on eBay had similar cracks.
 
Jimmy

Here's the wheel I spoke about. No major structural cracks. Will be on its way to you tomorrow.
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65swb45 said:
Jimmy

Here's the wheel I spoke about. No major structural cracks. Will be on its way to you tomorrow.View attachment 1397577
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Mark,
If you can send a return ticket also (for shipping it back to you) , also if you want me to do a horn button send it also so it will match unless you just want the wheel done. Either way I'll be looking for it.
Thanks
James Watson
 
Splangy said:
Interesting advice by whoever wrote that article. The etching primer won't etch into plastic so it's definitely not a good choice for the application, and most modern top coats should not be applied directly to a self etching primer. A surfacing primer is usually need to provide proper adhesion.
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Here's another article I sourced and it says the same thing. I have seen comments in other forums saying to use another primer over the self etching but not in any of the articles. http://www.chevyclassicsclub.com/wp-content/themes/chevyclassicsclub/pdf/tech0915.pdf
 
Birdhead said:
Here's another article I sourced and it says the same thing. I have seen comments in other forums saying to use another primer over the self etching but not in any of the articles. http://www.chevyclassicsclub.com/wp-content/themes/chevyclassicsclub/pdf/tech0915.pdf
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I wouldn't trust that article either. They had fish eyes with Primer (no doubt after 50 years of silicon based cleaner use) and used an adhesion promoter to overcome the issue.

Bottom line, acid etching primers are made for metallic surfaces. The acid isn't going to etch plastic. Use a quality epoxy primer. I usually use a black epoxy primer for this application just in case the topcoat wears through.

Oh, and do yourself a favor and thoroughly wipe down the part with wax and grease remover to remove any oils and silicon BEFORE sanding to avoid impregnating the contaminants into the surface. Then rewipe before epoxying, priming and painting.
 
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Splangy said:
I wouldn't trust that article either. They had fish eyes with Primer (no doubt after 50 years of silicon based cleaner use) and used an adhesion promoter to overcome the issue.

Bottom line, acid etching primers are made for metallic surfaces. The acid isn't going to etch plastic. Use a quality epoxy primer. I usually use a black epoxy primer for this application just in case the topcoat wears through.

Oh, and do yourself a favor and thoroughly wipe down the part with wax and grease remover to remove any oils and silicon BEFORE sanding to avoid impregnating the contaminants into the surface. Then rewipe before epoxying, priming and painting.
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Thanks, I appreciate the info
 
This is one I'm working on now. It had some cracks in the circumference of the hub which is a 1st for me (that's why I'm doing some for free). You can see I used green primer on my first two primes and black on the third. Every time I sand/prime I find a repairable spot. I think I got it all on this one, should prime and first coat tomorrow. FYI I talked to the cerakote company today and they seemed to think using the air dry cerakote would be best because of the UV protection it offers. I'm going to buy a cerakote set up next week so I can try this. I'll keep updating.

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If you look in the 2nd pic you will see a lot of "junk" on the grip part of the wheel. It was very rough to the touch. After degreasing/sanding/priming it feels perfect. The gap on the wheel was filled and I formed a finger grip on the back side of it. Here is a pic of it from earlier.
 
Jimmy will be a vendor before you know it, and we'll be saying "remember when...."
 
I bought the cerakote kit today and spoke with their rep. He said the graphite black would be the best match and they have a flat & semi-gloss clear coat. I have a beat up wheel coming that I will practice on and color match. The rep also said the cerakote would keep the repaired cracks (epoxy) from returning and prevent new ones. Once the beat up wheel and the cerakote kit arrive I'll put pics of the process on this thread.
 
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