Build Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap

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Dirty Koala said:
Me too. With the Cummins tan it’s easy to spot any leaks too.
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Reminds me of my 3.9l ISB Cummins 😎

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Just caught up on this thread....started at the end with the latest 5.9 Cummins common rail build...but then had to go to the beginning only to eventually find the first 6BT Cummins build....🤪

Early in the thread you were wondering how to make the Toyota tach work with a crank sensor with 2 pulses/rev. Dakota Digital was the answer, but now no longer needed. The FJ80 Toyota tach can be adjusted for different pulse frequencies.

I also lost my A/C amplifier during my swap, bought another, only then to find the original...😁

All told, great problem solving.
 
Yesterday I loaded the motor and drivetrain into the bed of the big white wheelbarrow, winched the 80 up onto my trailer and hauled everything up to @Delta VS in ID for some test fitting. Things are moving along nicely now.
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NeverFinis said:
Just caught up on this thread....started at the end with the latest 5.9 Cummins common rail build...but then had to go to the beginning only to eventually find the first 6BT Cummins build....🤪

Early in the thread you were wondering how to make the Toyota tach work with a crank sensor with 2 pulses/rev. Dakota Digital was the answer, but now no longer needed. The FJ80 Toyota tach can be adjusted for different pulse frequencies.

I also lost my A/C amplifier during my swap, bought another, only then to find the original...😁

All told, great problem solving.
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Yeah, I am an OG when it comes to Cummins swaps into 80’s 😉. For the 12V we actually modified a 24V balancer, machining it so there were 3 pulses per revolution picked up, which is exactly what the 80 tach works off of. I never needed a Dakota box.

Sounds familiar…I found that amplifier after buying a new one.
 
Dirty Koala said:
looks very similar. What did you put this 3.9 into?
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It was in my 60 series cruiser. They are interesting little motors, rear gear train driven but share a lot of the same parts between the 5.9/6.7l.
 
In your other build thread you mentioned that the 12V was dusted.

I think in this thread, you were thinking about a larger snorkel with a pre-cleaner. I am currentlty running a 4.0" Radius Fabrication snorkel, without a pre-cleaner.

I have looked at pre-cleaners but most don't meet the CFM requirements of a large engine.

The one I am considering is H0020451 by Donaldson, rated to 660 cfm. My 6.0L needs at least 600 CFM.

I am also thinking about a filter monitor, which many diesel engines have. Otherwise, one has to take apart the filter housing for inspection, which is a pain in the ass for my Radius Fabrication Filter box...

FYI: https://www.donaldson.com/content/d...0027-ENG/Air-Intake-Systems-Product-Guide.pdf
 
NeverFinis said:
In your other build thread you mentioned that the 12V was dusted.

I think in this thread, you were thinking about a larger snorkel with a pre-cleaner. I am currentlty running a 4.0" Radius Fabrication snorkel, without a pre-cleaner.

I have looked at pre-cleaners but most don't meet the CFM requirements of a large engine.

The one I am considering is H0020451 by Donaldson, rated to 660 cfm. My 6.0L needs at least 600 CFM.

I am also thinking about a filter monitor, which many diesel engines have. Otherwise, one has to take apart the filter housing for inspection, which is a pain in the ass for my Radius Fabrication Filter box...

FYI: https://www.donaldson.com/content/d...0027-ENG/Air-Intake-Systems-Product-Guide.pdf
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The original filter housing that I was running with the 12V was a cast aluminum housing designed around using the stock 12v panel filter. The problem with that design is with heavy filtration loads, like to you get Offroad in Southern UT, I managed to clog that filter within 2 days of changing it out. Rather than just choking the engine, the panel actually deformed and allowed dirt to pass right into the motor taking out the rings on cylinders 2,3 and 4. A leak down test proved #3 to be the worst at 30% leakage, 2 and 4 were both around 17%. Another over 10% on a fresh rebuild is excessive.

That said, a VERY VERY robust filtration system is in the works at Delta for this common rail conversion kit.
 
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Dirty Koala said:
The original filter housing that I was running with the 12V was a cast aluminum housing designed around using the stock 12v panel filter. The problem with that design is with heavy filtration loads, like to you get Offroad in Southern UT, I managed to clog that filter within 2 days of changing it out. Rather than just choking the engine, the panel actually deformed and allowed dirt to pass right into the motor taking out wings on cylinder 2,3 and 4.
A VERY robust filtration system in in the works for this common rail.
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I will be following along because my filter is also a panel filter, just slightly smaller than the panel filter for the 12V cummins.

Both have a metal honeycomb mesh backing to prevent deformation..... well..in theory...

I just ordered the Donaldson H0020451 to check it out. I could turn my snorkel backwards in heavy dusty conditions. I will be in in Utah this April...
 
NeverFinis said:
I will be following along because my filter is also a panel filter, just slightly smaller than the panel filter for the 12V cummins.

Both have a metal honeycomb mesh backing to prevent deformation..... well..in theory...

I just ordered the Donaldson H0020451 to check it out. I could turn my snorkel backwards in heavy dusty conditions. I will be in in Utah this April...
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Are you going to Cruise Moab at the end of April?
 
NeverFinis said:
Yep. First time attending and lucked out with the queue. I have about 5000 miles on my LS swap, and this will be its first big off-road trip.
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Cool, I’ll be there, we are attempting to get this common rail done in time for CM.
 
Dirty Koala said:
The original filter housing that I was running with the 12V was a cast aluminum housing designed around using the stock 12v panel filter. The problem with that design is with heavy filtration loads, like to you get Offroad in Southern UT, I managed to clog that filter within 2 days of changing it out. Rather than just choking the engine, the panel actually deformed and allowed dirt to pass right into the motor taking out the rings on cylinders 2,3 and 4. A leak down test proved #3 to be the worst at 30% leakage, 2 and 4 were both around 17%. Another over 10% on a fresh rebuild is excessive.

That said, a VERY VERY robust filtration system is in the works at Delta for this common rail conversion kit.
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Come on man you were looking for a reason to put that common rail in 😆 it’s going to have more power and noticeably quieter
 
RockJock82 said:
Come on man you were looking for a reason to put that common rail in 😆 it’s going to have more power and noticeably quieter
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Any excuse is good enough! It’s going to be much quieter, smoother, cleaner and tuned power curves. What’s not to love.
 
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