Delancy's NEW 76 PIGGY ???

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fj40 rad will not bolt in to pig...nor will late 78 79 pig rad into earlier pigs. the rad support will need to be opened up or a rad that is skinny enough can be used to fit between the uprights of support. otherwise, there will not be real estate between the fan and rad...are you going to run the clutch fan, or clutchless? the clutch fan sticks out about an inch more...
 
if you end up getting a new rad, don't forget to offer your oldy up for sale...they're getting hard to find.
 
Seems pages show a universal fit for the 2F, but based on part numbers, are 40 specific.

Pig is 16400-61011 where 40 is 600XX.

Probably need to wait, check clearances, and order a radiator/condenser combo based on size, have the angle TIG'd on after, I reckon, or hunt a core and rework.
 
are you going to run the clutch fan, or clutchless?

Late clutch, but have late and early options on hand.

Think the issues with were noted on ACCs 3F Pig and why this has waited.

if you end up getting a new rad, don't forget to offer your oldy up for sale...they're getting hard to find.

Pretty sure the OE won't work.

Kinda sucks considering the extent gone to keeping it all OE-ish.
 
working is priceless tho. who cares about stock when you're bouncing down the highway witha shideatin grim glued to your face;)
 
I recalled why this hadn't been determined before.

Have to position engine back in bay, with pulley and 3FE fan to check tolerance between fan and radiator, since expecting there to be some real estate battle between the two.

Hopefully engine will be back in today to see what we've got, then can go from there.

Pretty sure I have an OE 2F radiator that's be rodded and pressure tested by the local shop that stated it to be healthy, furthering with it wasn't worth recoring, suggesting aftermarket before that were considered, since not an accurate restoration.

If that is the case, run the OE radiator or opt for newer technology with aftermarket or custom option?

I used my '74 rad w/ my 3FE.
All I had to do was move the mounts on the rad back, effectively moving the rad fwd in the bay. This allowed me to keep the 3FE clutch fan.
Read more here: POTM - March, 2014 - Javelina By Pablo Cruise
Actually not much more to read, just a picture of clearances...
 
that's about all the clearance I got using the clutchless fan with oil cooler water pump and stock mounting of rad...have you got any shots of how far forward it sits now? Like, where is the leading plane of the rad in relation to where it was?
 
For posterity....

Ordered 95940-32605 (10 1/8") for the front brake line and it's short, but 60 Series (12 1/4") seems to work.

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Headway being made.

Steering column rebuilt, painted and sufficiently lubed.

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Have a new signal switch that came in the '76 and an extremely minty Blue T wheel Alberto donated that Bill thought a solid score.

Heater was torn down and painted, awaiting foam from Metric for it and blower motor.

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Hoping Shane is on the ball, since it'll be holding up in a day or so.

Header cores dropped at radiator shop, while we're in there.

What flexible ducts remained were trashed so hunting replacements for. Haven't searched yet, but if anyone has suggestions, I'm all eyes.
 
If the flexible duct is oblong shaped where it attaches to the heater SOR used sells duct for an outrageous $75 per side. I searched when I put together my 40. Decided I could live with a cracked elbow in my duct.

Looking good. Someday I'm going to have to get on the turnpike and come see your project(s). Keep it going.

Nik
 
Yeah, three hoses.

Just a repair note on those elbows @NikP - I used "Rescue Tape" or at least a Home Despot version of it, and it works great and looks decent. The tape is silicone tape that is self sealing. No more leaks, no more duct tape, and a roll costs $5.
 
Yeah, three hoses.

Made of the finest rare minerals....

For the sake of speed and maintaining momentum, succumbed to mediocrity and ordered the three hose kit from SOR.

I'm all for capitalism and any item is worth what someone is willing to pay, especially when you're the only game on the planet with the parts, in stock and ready to ship.

That said, I do not understand how they've continued with their shipping policy and pricing.

See no reason why these good should cost $26.00 to ship UPS with 4-5 day timeframe, considering the premium on the goods themselves.
 
I tried to send a pair of lightweight sunglasses from NC to DE yesterday via FedEx, and when I was in the store, they told me it would cost roughly $20, due to the fact that they would have to use bubble wrap and put a 'Fragile' sticker on it, otherwise they couldn't guarantee. Maybe he was way off base, but I left the store and will look at other options.

so just as an example, the cost of everything is going up faster then peoples wages.
 
Pleased with Fedex Ground.

It may take awhile, but the rates are very reasonable, compared to other carriers.

Just venting about the absorbent fortune the three hoses, that I should've sourced a year ago, cost.
 
Headway being made.

Steering column rebuilt, painted and sufficiently lubed.

View attachment 1026784

Have a new signal switch that came in the '76 and an extremely minty Blue T wheel Alberto donated that Bill thought a solid score.

Heater was torn down and painted, awaiting foam from Metric for it and blower motor.

View attachment 1026788

Hoping Shane is on the ball, since it'll be holding up in a day or so.

Header cores dropped at radiator shop, while we're in there.

What flexible ducts remained were trashed so hunting replacements for. Haven't searched yet, but if anyone has suggestions, I'm all eyes.

Lots of threads on replacement duct sources in here.
 
Before I explain how the mistake on the lights, figure I'll toss out to the court of public opinion, to see if it's worth sourcing the correct version......from Lativia. :rolleyes:

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Best I can tell, there were about as many Gs that had both the turn signal and parking feature integrated into this single housing, as there are good '69 grilles.

If they can't serve the purpose of both, I don't want them, but don't know of another clean way to fender mount and don't want to be replacing the OEs every time some idiot (me) knocks them off because they're as graceful as an elephant.
 
Can you change the socket to an 1157 style?

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