I ordered mine and the side cargo panels. Looking forward to it. And thanks @CruiserTrash for the email correspondence as my dude is not a US spec. Hopefully those pics with dimensions pay off 
Cruiser Trash Parts thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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- Thread starter
- #43
Panels are back from the cut shop and will ship Monday.
Big time! Looking forward to receiving them.
- Thread starter
- #45
I'm making a big post office run today with I think 8 boxes, but orders are shipping slower than I'd like. I'm running into permitting issues on a big project at my day job - it's turning into a nightmare dealing with several branches of the city government, an architect, a builder, and a couple other contractors -it's been sucking all my time. Apologies for the delay! All current orders will be going out in the next couple days, though. Thanks for understanding that I do this on nights and weekends to serve the Cruiser community!
- Thread starter
- #46
Learn something new every day:
1981-1982 trucks have a slight difference in the cargo panels. I happened to have a 1982 60 and tried to slap some of my pre-85 panels in there and they didn’t work. Oh well, let’s design some new ones. They are done and installed this morning. Thanks to @CenTXFJ60 for the additional photos from his early trucks! So now I have the following panels ready to be cut (and sometimes on hand):
81-82
83-84
85-87
Some HJ6Xs
I also have variations I can add for:
Wiper fluid hole delete
Aftermarket 3-point rear seat belts
Yes I am still slowly chipping away at 62 cargo panels. Hoping to get with @ryaneddy16 one of these weekends to measure some things on his 62. (@red66toy gas also been helpful with some dimensions too, thanks!).
Here’s my truck all decked out in ABS, tailgate panel too. Can’t wait to beat the snot out of it camping when the whether warms up.
In case anybody is wondering how to remove the fasteners, get a screwdriver blade under each side and pop:
When pulling them out, make sure the head is popped out about 80% and lift the fastener from the flanges disc under the head. If you pop the head out too far it expands the wedge again and will prevent it from coming out.
Good:
Too far:
1981-1982 trucks have a slight difference in the cargo panels. I happened to have a 1982 60 and tried to slap some of my pre-85 panels in there and they didn’t work. Oh well, let’s design some new ones. They are done and installed this morning. Thanks to @CenTXFJ60 for the additional photos from his early trucks! So now I have the following panels ready to be cut (and sometimes on hand):
81-82
83-84
85-87
Some HJ6Xs
I also have variations I can add for:
Wiper fluid hole delete
Aftermarket 3-point rear seat belts
Yes I am still slowly chipping away at 62 cargo panels. Hoping to get with @ryaneddy16 one of these weekends to measure some things on his 62. (@red66toy gas also been helpful with some dimensions too, thanks!).
Here’s my truck all decked out in ABS, tailgate panel too. Can’t wait to beat the snot out of it camping when the whether warms up.
In case anybody is wondering how to remove the fasteners, get a screwdriver blade under each side and pop:
When pulling them out, make sure the head is popped out about 80% and lift the fastener from the flanges disc under the head. If you pop the head out too far it expands the wedge again and will prevent it from coming out.
Good:
Too far:
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Those look so good!
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
very nice!
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks y’all!
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks to @ryaneddy16 I’ve confirmed the Tailgate Panel fits 62s.
Still working on 62 Cargo Panels … if anybody in Denver has a 62 with rear 3-point seatbelts please get in touch!
Still working on 62 Cargo Panels … if anybody in Denver has a 62 with rear 3-point seatbelts please get in touch!
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Looks great!
- Thread starter
- #53
My engine bay wire ties were all cracked and broken and the harness was rubbing on a few spots where it was flopping around. Plus I have some extra wiring from add-ons I’ve done. So I found the Toyota part numbers and ordered them. Wrong ones. Ordered some more, one of them was right. Finally found both correct part numbers.
I ordered a bunch, counted them into the correct quantities, and put them on the website as a “kit”. It’s a convenience thing if somebody needs them - good pricing, everything in one click, no research (I already did that). Shipping will be about $5, unlike some of the online parts retailers that charge a minimum of $40 to ship.
I had previously gotten some knock offs that were labeled as a Honda part. They fit but several broke on install. No cheap junk, I went back and found the Toyota parts and of course they’re higher quality. These also fit larger cables - albeit barely - like @Fourrunner heavy duty cable upgrade kit.
You can order the kit here.
Here are the locations. Green circles are on the right side, black on the left side.
Note that one of the black ties is not on the inner wheel well, it’s on the inner fender near the air intake tube (shown above).
I recommend clipping off the protruding part of the old ties underneath with some flush cutters, then poking the remainder up from the bottom with a screwdriver. Install is easy: push in the receiver side, loop the tie around, then push in the other side. It takes maybe 20 minutes to do them all.
I ordered a bunch, counted them into the correct quantities, and put them on the website as a “kit”. It’s a convenience thing if somebody needs them - good pricing, everything in one click, no research (I already did that). Shipping will be about $5, unlike some of the online parts retailers that charge a minimum of $40 to ship.
I had previously gotten some knock offs that were labeled as a Honda part. They fit but several broke on install. No cheap junk, I went back and found the Toyota parts and of course they’re higher quality. These also fit larger cables - albeit barely - like @Fourrunner heavy duty cable upgrade kit.
You can order the kit here.
Here are the locations. Green circles are on the right side, black on the left side.
Note that one of the black ties is not on the inner wheel well, it’s on the inner fender near the air intake tube (shown above).
I recommend clipping off the protruding part of the old ties underneath with some flush cutters, then poking the remainder up from the bottom with a screwdriver. Install is easy: push in the receiver side, loop the tie around, then push in the other side. It takes maybe 20 minutes to do them all.
- Thread starter
- #54
FYI it’s been difficult getting these wire ties in quantity from Toyota so my initial stock is very limited. I don’t even know if there will be interest in these, so I guess a limited stock to start is ok. I have an outstanding order with my Toyota supplier and they’ve been trickling in onesie twosie. I will update stock when I can.
- Thread starter
- #55
More wire ties inbound, with possibly one being a different Toyota part number. I need to make sure it works and looks right first.
In other news, the HBIM works in first gen 4Runners with the proper headlight/harness kit! Cody Key (@keyappstate on Instagram) took a chance and ordered one - and it worked perfectly. This means the module likely works on pickups too. A bunch of 4Runner folks cleaned me out of HBIMs this weekend and I'm out of the PCBs to make more. I have a batch arriving in the next couple days, so I'm going to tentatively say I could ship HBIMs by Friday.
On the other hand @FJBen ordered one for his 70 Series and it did NOT work. I am working on both a 70 Series solution (thanks to Ben for sending me the wiring diagram) and a 24V solution. Obviously some 70s are 24V, but so are some 60s.
Any adventurous soul out there that has the Koito headlight kit in an FJ40 that wants to try the HBIM? Happy to do a return if it doesn't work.
Still waiting on the guy in Canada who ordered one for his early 90s MR2 to test his out. I think he's in the process of rebuilding the thing and hasn't gotten to headlights yet. From the wiring diagram he sent me, it'll most likely work.
In other news, the HBIM works in first gen 4Runners with the proper headlight/harness kit! Cody Key (@keyappstate on Instagram) took a chance and ordered one - and it worked perfectly. This means the module likely works on pickups too. A bunch of 4Runner folks cleaned me out of HBIMs this weekend and I'm out of the PCBs to make more. I have a batch arriving in the next couple days, so I'm going to tentatively say I could ship HBIMs by Friday.
On the other hand @FJBen ordered one for his 70 Series and it did NOT work. I am working on both a 70 Series solution (thanks to Ben for sending me the wiring diagram) and a 24V solution. Obviously some 70s are 24V, but so are some 60s.
Any adventurous soul out there that has the Koito headlight kit in an FJ40 that wants to try the HBIM? Happy to do a return if it doesn't work.
Still waiting on the guy in Canada who ordered one for his early 90s MR2 to test his out. I think he's in the process of rebuilding the thing and hasn't gotten to headlights yet. From the wiring diagram he sent me, it'll most likely work.
- Thread starter
- #56
Additionally, I built some power distro into my personal cargo panels over the last week and a half. This is something I could offer as a kit on its own or as an add-on to a cargo panel purchase. I would love to hear some feedback about whether this would make sense to people or not. I kind of think it's too much for some folks (the hardcore DIY person) and too little for others (the folks who don't wrench on their trucks very much and need a full turnkey solution). What say ye, peanut gallery?
This is just a small piece of ABS with positive and ground distro attached, held to the cargo panel with standoffs. It sneaks right between the body work supports in the cargo panel cavity. I added a USB charger and some lighting, but would not provide that. You'd get the Blue Sea power distro stuff, the abs sheet, and the hardware. Panels ordered with that add-on kit would have holes pre-cut to attach the standoffs. You can see in the second photo that the bolt heads for the standoffs are very low profile so they don't catch on any cargo. They aren't super visible.
And yes, the switch for my lights will get ripped off - I used what I had on hand for that and will be replacing it with a near flush-mount push button.
For the curious, here's the lights. The wiring follows the rest of the wiring for the hatch electrics (defrost, wiper motor) up the d-pillar, through the headliner, inside the rubber boot, and down inside the hatch, and comes out of the body metal at the lock tab.
This is just a small piece of ABS with positive and ground distro attached, held to the cargo panel with standoffs. It sneaks right between the body work supports in the cargo panel cavity. I added a USB charger and some lighting, but would not provide that. You'd get the Blue Sea power distro stuff, the abs sheet, and the hardware. Panels ordered with that add-on kit would have holes pre-cut to attach the standoffs. You can see in the second photo that the bolt heads for the standoffs are very low profile so they don't catch on any cargo. They aren't super visible.
And yes, the switch for my lights will get ripped off - I used what I had on hand for that and will be replacing it with a near flush-mount push button.
For the curious, here's the lights. The wiring follows the rest of the wiring for the hatch electrics (defrost, wiper motor) up the d-pillar, through the headliner, inside the rubber boot, and down inside the hatch, and comes out of the body metal at the lock tab.
- Thread starter
- #57
Over on my Instagram account I’ve been doing a series of stories for every unique solid front axle Cruiser I spot in the Denver Metro area - Land Cruisers of Denver. The occasional 100 pops up that I find post worthy from time to time too.
I just hit 100, and I’m doing a giveaway for some Cruiser Trash Parts products.
Hop on over to IG, read my latest post including ALL the crazy rules I had to type out, and enter if you feel so inclined!
My handle is <@ cruisertrash.fj60>
I just hit 100, and I’m doing a giveaway for some Cruiser Trash Parts products.
Hop on over to IG, read my latest post including ALL the crazy rules I had to type out, and enter if you feel so inclined!
My handle is <@ cruisertrash.fj60>
- Thread starter
- #58
I recently put LED blinker bulbs in my 60, which of course means they’re going to hyper flash when using the original flasher module. I ordered an off-the shelf module and it worked fine, but had to be zip tied up and out of the way. Not a huge deal, but I’m a fan of originality and factory-level install for stuff like this. I haven’t been able to find a new module that fits Toyota’s connector, so …
… I reverse engineered Toyota’s flasher circuit and made a couple small modifications. It works perfectly with the LED bulbs now. DOT/NHTSA spec in the US for blinkers is 1-2x per second and I’m at 1.3. It’s nice and slow, very smooth coming on and going off. Feels right for the truck and of course the module plugs right in.
Is there any interest in offering this as a service? You’d have to mail in your flasher, I’d do the work and send it back. Eventually I’d like a stockpile of backups that I can send out as loaners so you don’t have to take your truck off the road due to no turn signals … don’t have any extras yet.
Couple of videos:
And a gut shot of the flasher:
There’s another thread where folks are cutting out a resistor from the PC board. I applaud the experimentation and effort, but I believe that will shorten the lifespan of the transistors on the board. I don’t know how long it would take to cause damage, but removing the resistor changes where current is flowing in the circuit in an adverse way.
… I reverse engineered Toyota’s flasher circuit and made a couple small modifications. It works perfectly with the LED bulbs now. DOT/NHTSA spec in the US for blinkers is 1-2x per second and I’m at 1.3. It’s nice and slow, very smooth coming on and going off. Feels right for the truck and of course the module plugs right in.
Is there any interest in offering this as a service? You’d have to mail in your flasher, I’d do the work and send it back. Eventually I’d like a stockpile of backups that I can send out as loaners so you don’t have to take your truck off the road due to no turn signals … don’t have any extras yet.
Couple of videos:
And a gut shot of the flasher:
There’s another thread where folks are cutting out a resistor from the PC board. I applaud the experimentation and effort, but I believe that will shorten the lifespan of the transistors on the board. I don’t know how long it would take to cause damage, but removing the resistor changes where current is flowing in the circuit in an adverse way.
NWxDrew
SILVER Star
this is pretty interesting!! Can you take a flasher with its resistor removed and do your magic?
