62FLRK worked out great for me. Didn’t have to change a thing.
1989 FJ62 with a 1991 Chevy tbi 350.
1989 FJ62 with a 1991 Chevy tbi 350.
Cruiser Trash Parts thread
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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- Thread starter
- #362
"Due to a high volume of calls, you may experience a slight delay. Your call will be handled in the order it was received. Thank you for your patience."
Hey y'all, I'm currently experiencing the perfect storm. Absolutely slammed with orders right now which happened right as I was running low on a few constituent parts. At the same time my day job decided to kick my ass for weeks on end, and some serious family stuff is going on. Right now orders are running appx 10 days from order to ship - even for things that are in-stock, which is 80% of what I offer. Excuses, sure. That's a valid assessment. But it's also the world I've been living in since the holidays.
Most of the constituent ingredients to do what I do have arrived, and the stragglers should be here this weekend or Monday. As always, anybody can feel to reach out to me any time if you have questions or want to dig deeper.
Hey y'all, I'm currently experiencing the perfect storm. Absolutely slammed with orders right now which happened right as I was running low on a few constituent parts. At the same time my day job decided to kick my ass for weeks on end, and some serious family stuff is going on. Right now orders are running appx 10 days from order to ship - even for things that are in-stock, which is 80% of what I offer. Excuses, sure. That's a valid assessment. But it's also the world I've been living in since the holidays.
Most of the constituent ingredients to do what I do have arrived, and the stragglers should be here this weekend or Monday. As always, anybody can feel to reach out to me any time if you have questions or want to dig deeper.
- Thread starter
- #363
Half of the outstanding orders are going out today FYI. If you've been waiting, there's a chance you received an automated shipment tracking email. If you didn't, you'll probably get one early this coming week.
I've been entertaining the FLRK for my 62. I noticed it said it was "almost" plug-n-play, but I couldn't find a description of what wires needed to be spliced. Could you elaborate more? Not that I don't have the skills or tools to do it - I'm just not a huge fan of hacking up factory wires/connectors without good cause.
RevISK
SILVER Star
This is a good cause.
No hacking up factory wires, just replacing one plug. 3 wires.
There is a write up in my Paul thread towards the end if you are inclined.
No hacking involved. The wires are already out of the wrapped part of the harness. You’re replacing the 3 pin connector by the battery. I just installed the kit in my 62, 100% satisfied. Really happy I got it because 2 of my fusible links were removed. If you’re having any problems with your fusible links I recommend this kit. Very good instructions come with it and it took me about 2 hours to install. And that was with family interruptions.
This is what I removed
And what was installed
And I don’t think he could have found a better fuse box. All quality parts in this kit. Wire routing and management/securing is all on you though.
This is what I removed
And what was installed
And I don’t think he could have found a better fuse box. All quality parts in this kit. Wire routing and management/securing is all on you though.
- Thread starter
- #367
Thanks for the question. The explanation is really simple. You see the round three-pin connector that your fusible link plugs into? It’s the round three-pin connector on the harness side. That gets lopped off and a different round three-pin connector gets butt-spliced in it’s place.
The new connector I provide is a pre-assembled pig tail. The wires coming from the pigtail should be color coded to match the three wires from the harness (I have verified the colors in several 62s; Toyota may have had other wire color variations but I haven’t seen them yet; all three wires have the same fuse value so it ultimately doesn’t matter how they connect). The three stubby wires on the pigtail already have their half of the splices crimped on. The butt splices are also made from heat shrink material so after you crimp the harness wires into the splices, take a heat gun or lighter to it for waterproofing and extra security.
When you’re done it looks pretty original aside from the butt splices, which you can wrap if you want.
- Thread starter
- #368
Orders are now caught up!
Seems simple enough, although I was hoping to avoid any cutting of the factory wires at all. Is that particular mating connector cavity just unobtainable these days?
- Thread starter
- #370
Correct, they’re gone. The one I use is almost identical, but clocked 180 degrees different. It at least looks original.
- Thread starter
- #371
Updates:
Got caught up and did some extra Fusible Link Replacement Kits. I have both 60 and 62 kits ready to go, so come on - you know you want to ditch that dumb fusible link!
On another note, I have zero cores for the green LED flasher module right now, however the big secret is that either the green OR the black will work in ANY 60 Series truck. So if you've been holding off because you need the green flasher, the black one will work just the same for you. Also, if folks have extra green flasher modules, I'll buy them. Send me a PM!
Other than that I have plenty of fire extinguisher brackets, ABS panels, and other doodads in stock.
Got caught up and did some extra Fusible Link Replacement Kits. I have both 60 and 62 kits ready to go, so come on - you know you want to ditch that dumb fusible link!
On another note, I have zero cores for the green LED flasher module right now, however the big secret is that either the green OR the black will work in ANY 60 Series truck. So if you've been holding off because you need the green flasher, the black one will work just the same for you. Also, if folks have extra green flasher modules, I'll buy them. Send me a PM!
Other than that I have plenty of fire extinguisher brackets, ABS panels, and other doodads in stock.
I’ll be ordering a FLRK for my 60 very soon, but before I do, can someone tell me what I should do about the battery end of my link? It was like this when I bought it I’m pretty sure there’s some unnecessary resistance in the wire.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
- Thread starter
- #373
Man … this is usually when I tell folks to just buy the FLRK. But if you have to hold off for a while I’d repair that as best as you can. That frayed wire hanging out of there is a fire hazard if it touches metal.
Get some wire that matches the gauge and some good butt splices for that size wire. I like the splices that are made with heat shrink. Cut the original wire coming from the connector, leaving as much length as possible while cutting off any compromised parts. Strip the end and splice that to your new wire, using a length of maybe 9” so you’ve got some extra length. Then on the other end of the new wire strip the end and crimp on a good ring terminal that’s sized for whatever diameter you need to fit it on your battery terminal.
Your FLRK comes with the battery connection?
- Thread starter
- #375
Yes indeed.
Here’s what’s in the box. The big red cable on the right goes to your battery terminal. The big red cable on the left goes to your alternator. The round plastic connector snaps in to the connector on your harness.
Here’s a better photo of the shorter red cable going to the battery, and the bracket that holds the fuse panel.
Here’s the short pigtail with the connector fitted to the connector on the truck harness
RevISK
SILVER Star
I would recommend just investing in the FLRK, it is a really nice upgrade, straightforward install and sensible solution.
Perfect. You sold me. Ordering one today.
- Thread starter
- #379
I appreciate it!
- Thread starter
- #380
Any interest in a bracket that lets you drop in an 80 amp 80 Series (3FE FJ80) alternator into a 2F motor, keep the stock size belt, and have enough room to tension everything?
The problem I’m solving for is that the 80 alternator has the tension “ear” clocked differently than the 60 alternator, so when you use the 80 alt with the 60 bracket, you run out of room to tension it. Then you play the game of “guess the belt size” in the Napa parking lot.
You could still use a 60 Series 2F alternator with this bracket too, so you don’t lose functionality. The work of replacing the alternator aside, the bracket is held onto the block with a single bolt that’s easily accessible if you stand on the bumper. Super easy to swap it out. There’s a conversion pigtail available to make the electrical side plug & play as well.
Would there be any takers?
The problem I’m solving for is that the 80 alternator has the tension “ear” clocked differently than the 60 alternator, so when you use the 80 alt with the 60 bracket, you run out of room to tension it. Then you play the game of “guess the belt size” in the Napa parking lot.
You could still use a 60 Series 2F alternator with this bracket too, so you don’t lose functionality. The work of replacing the alternator aside, the bracket is held onto the block with a single bolt that’s easily accessible if you stand on the bumper. Super easy to swap it out. There’s a conversion pigtail available to make the electrical side plug & play as well.
Would there be any takers?