I'd be interested in something like this.
Cruiser Trash Parts thread
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'd be interested in something like this.
Yep. I’m looking for just a few more amps.
I wonder if you could source the correct single groove pulley and work with coolerman to put together a complete package to do the swap. bracket, pulley and pigtail.
the differences between alternator manufacturers could be a potential issue though. My 60 pulley swapped onto my Remy 80 alt with no issues, plenty of thread.
the differences between alternator manufacturers could be a potential issue though. My 60 pulley swapped onto my Remy 80 alt with no issues, plenty of thread.
on a somewhat related note. one the "matt's" either cruiser, or the one whom will shall not speak about did something with he 62 series? alternator to get it to work with the 60. anyone recall that? I can't seem to find the thread or parts
- Thread starter
- #385
A kit is already where my mind is going on this for sure. I’m also wondering if the 3Fe 80 Series alt is maybe the wrong move. The fact that two of them I ordered through Rock Auto that came in newly manufacturer generic cases rather than the Denso cores shown in the pictures is the writing on the wall. That might be a reason for the varying pulley fitment as well. @ToyotaTechnical actually had that suggestion for me. I think for now I’ll probably push this bracket out and see how it works for me and whomever wants to buy it while I think about it from a 10000’ view.
@CardinalFJ60 The 62 alternator is 65A, not a huge gain versus the stock 60 alt at 55A. Go big or go home! If you wanna drive downtown maybe you can pick up one of these brackets from me when they get in and give it a shot, eh?
The 27060-61090 3FE Alternator is 80 Amps
....
Im thinking like 90-130 is where I wanna be.
- Thread starter
- #389
The problem I've seen - and it may not be all of them - is that the high output alternators don't do as well at low rpm. Not all companies release the rpm vs current curve for their alternators, but the ones that are available usually show poor output at idle rpms and the advertised peak rpm is above the 2F redline. Are there "better" alternators than the 80 Series stuff? Absolutely. Do they require even more work and finagling? For sure.
The nice thing about the 80 Series stuff is that it drops in on the lower bracket, so you're not modifying that one. Any other solution opens an even bigger can of worms. And that's fine, it just depends on your appetite for fabrication!
Also, what electrical stuff are you running? I've got a dual battery system, 340W of extra lighting up front, plus extra cabin lighting, a fridge, and multiple USB ports running off a 60 alternator with the guts of a 62 alternator inside of it. 65 amps. Yeah, if I have all my extra front lights on, things bog at idle, but over about 1000rpm everything runs perfectly fine.
Not saying this path is better than another path. I'm only saying the return and the investment are in a pretty good ratio: a decent bump in alternator output current for fairly minimal work. And that might appeal to group of 60 owners.
I’m close to the same calculation as you in mine. I like less fuss. And not paying $600 for something like a power bastards solution.
When I read 80 series alternator in my mind I interpreted it as a 1FZ alternator which would be a good upgrade. Pull the rear cover and you can easily replace the brushes and voltage regulator. This would need minor rewiring and the pulley runs narrow belts so that would be an issue,
FWIW: When alternator companies are showing output vs. speed curves, they're talking about alternator RPM, not engine RPM. Typically alternators are overdriven at a 1:3 ratio, so 2,000 RPM on the engine would be 6,000 RPM at the alternator.
- Thread starter
- #393
Yep. I was shortcutting that part of it to be succinct.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Succulents are cool too.
Don’t knock ‘em.
Don’t knock ‘em.
- Thread starter
- #395
I'm with you Ian, I typically prefer to water my houseplants infrequently.
- Thread starter
- #397
Love to see it! 14.2V is great!
Hi, I received the FJ62 fusible link replacement a few months back. I am now planning to install it in the near future. What crimp die setting should be used? (22-16 gauge, 16-14 gauge, or 12-10 gauge)? Apologies if this has been covered before.
Has anyone installed the Fusible link in a 60 using a non-US spec air cleaner assembly? The mounting points for the bracket are the same mounting point that the air filter box uses. I’ve been looking around, trying to find a better place to mount it. There are some holes around the same area as the existing mount, but it’ll move the fusible link box down a little, and place it between the posts of the air cleaner box assembly. It’s a pretty good spot and I’ll just have to make a simple bracket to put it there, but I figured I’d ask first to find out if anyone else has done it and if so, where they decided to mount it.
- Thread starter
- #400
Hi, the three wires on the harness side of your truck that go to the round connector (the one you cut off and crimp in my round connector) are 14awg, 14awg, and I believe 12awg. I have seen two trucks where they were all 14awg though. I use a Hozan crimper on the 3.5 setting and be careful not to puncture the blue shrink wrap. General most crimpers will use the “medium” or blue die.
Make sure to give each wire a gentle tug after crimper to make sure they’re secured. Then apply heat to the shrink coating.
Last edited: