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Has anyone installed the Fusible link in a 60 using a non-US spec air cleaner assembly? The mounting points for the bracket are the same mounting point that the air filter box uses. I’ve been looking around, trying to find a better place to mount it. There are some holes around the same area as the existing mount, but it’ll move the fusible link box down a little, and place it between the posts of the air cleaner box assembly. It’s a pretty good spot and I’ll just have to make a simple bracket to put it there, but I figured I’d ask first to find out if anyone else has done it and if so, where they decided to mount it.View attachment 4099701View attachment 4099683
Great question! I’ll give my thoughts below and I hope some other folks chime in as well.

My 60 FLRK bracket is designed specifically for US spec FJ60s, and that air cleaner you have definitely gets in the way. The two options I generally suggest are to

1) Fab your own bracket.
2) Get the 62 FLRK and let me know it’s not for a 62, that way I can customize it. The key is that the 62 bracket fits around the windshield washer bottle and can be used on your truck (although sadly not RHD vehicles because the brake booster doesn’t allow enough clearance).

I bet your fusible link has a rectangular connector to the harness rather than the round one, yes?
 
I looked at the 62 kit to see where you were mounting it because it’s got a similar setup to mine.

My 60 is a USDM truck, I just hated the US air cleaner assy so I swapped over. My fusible link has the correct round connector.

I’ll make up a bracket and keep you updated on the results, I think the spot I’m looking at is the best solution. FWIW I knew going into this that my air cleaner was going to get in the way of the spot you’re mounting these kits. Just figured id ask if anyone had any ideas on alternative mounting locations.
 
I looked at the 62 kit to see where you were mounting it because it’s got a similar setup to mine.

My 60 is a USDM truck, I just hated the US air cleaner assy so I swapped over. My fusible link has the correct round connector.

I’ll make up a bracket and keep you updated on the results, I think the spot I’m looking at is the best solution. FWIW I knew going into this that my air cleaner was going to get in the way of the spot you’re mounting these kits. Just figured id ask if anyone had any ideas on alternative mounting locations.
I mean, you have the superior air cleaner setup so there’s that! I was thinking about doing that as well but went a different route with mine. Yours is factory, looks cool, works well, makes adjusting the carb and valves loads easier, sets you up for the possibility of a snorkel, etc. Moving the FLRK is a small thing compared to the advantages you have.

If you’re looking at ‘tween the air cleaner “legs”, send me some measurements. I want to make sure you can still get the lid off the fuse panel I supply. Even then, swapping a fuse might be hard unless you remove the panel from the bracket.

Another thought I had - and this just came to me - in the future I should make the 62 bracket with threaded holes for BOTH fuse panels to accommodate exactly this situation. It’s not the first time somebody’s had this same scenario. I could ship with the 62 bracket and you could drill & tap your own holes? I would change the cables lengths to accommodate the different position. There would be an upcharge for the extra materials, but it wouldn’t be as much as the entire 62 FLRK package.
 
Made a quick and dirty bracket to mount the box in roughly the same spot as intended, a few things I'll need to address. Moving the box down puts it right on top of the harness and starter wires that run underneath it. Not a huge deal, I'm going to pull the inner fenders out and repaint them anyway so I'll just adjust the harness when it goes back together. The box will open with the air cleaner housing in place but its not going to be a good time. Meh, only a few bolts to pull the housing out of the way and I don't plan on blowing fuses anyway (hopefully). The two holes above the box are where I mounted the relays for the H4 upgrade headlights, the relay on the right now hits the bracket. Maybe I'll drill a hole next to the one on the left and mount it on a riv-nut I don't like drilling holes in my truck. I'm not sure though, I love the H4 upgrade but the included harness feels like an after thought. I'll likely end up making an entirely new harness for them and find a better place to put the relays or make a bracket to hold both of them.

Overall I think its a fairly clean solution, I did have to add about a 15 degree bend to the mounting tabs at the fender side to clear the hump where the inner fender and body come together. I don't think I'd do this as a production solution if I were making and selling these but for my purposes it'll serve. There's a nice amount of clearance between the bottom of the mounting tabs for the air box and the positive cables which was my biggest concern overall.

This is part of a bigger overhaul of my charging system and power management. I have to replace my battery cables, wire up a battery kill switch (I disconnect my battery when the truck goes into the garage), wire in my lights and Diode Dynamics D-switch, and clean up some unused wiring. I'll post some final install photos when it all goes back together.
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Made a quick and dirty bracket to mount the box in roughly the same spot as intended, a few things I'll need to address. Moving the box down puts it right on top of the harness and starter wires that run underneath it. Not a huge deal, I'm going to pull the inner fenders out and repaint them anyway so I'll just adjust the harness when it goes back together. The box will open with the air cleaner housing in place but its not going to be a good time. Meh, only a few bolts to pull the housing out of the way and I don't plan on blowing fuses anyway (hopefully). The two holes above the box are where I mounted the relays for the H4 upgrade headlights, the relay on the right now hits the bracket. Maybe I'll drill a hole next to the one on the left and mount it on a riv-nut I don't like drilling holes in my truck. I'm not sure though, I love the H4 upgrade but the included harness feels like an after thought. I'll likely end up making an entirely new harness for them and find a better place to put the relays or make a bracket to hold both of them.

Overall I think its a fairly clean solution, I did have to add about a 15 degree bend to the mounting tabs at the fender side to clear the hump where the inner fender and body come together. I don't think I'd do this as a production solution if I were making and selling these but for my purposes it'll serve. There's a nice amount of clearance between the bottom of the mounting tabs for the air box and the positive cables which was my biggest concern overall.

This is part of a bigger overhaul of my charging system and power management. I have to replace my battery cables, wire up a battery kill switch (I disconnect my battery when the truck goes into the garage), wire in my lights and Diode Dynamics D-switch, and clean up some unused wiring. I'll post some final install photos when it all goes back together.
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Nice fab work. Maybe making the fuse panel sit closer to the inner fender would buy you another 1/4-1/2” of space for opening it.

Looking at the last photo, you can see why I chose the area over the top of the wi Daniel’s washer reservoir for the 62 FLRK. That style of air cleaner is nice, but it makes for a hard time finding room to mount anything else.
 
Successful test fit

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Bracket needs a few tweaks but works ok as-is. I’m working towards a kit so these 80 Series alternators drop right in.
 
You’ve always wanted this. The people have begged me for it. It’s here to solve all of your overlanding problems…

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60 Series upholstery throw pillows coming soon. These will be made with reproduction upholstery on one side - it’s actually pretty nice stuff - and have a heavy canvas on the back. Size is appx 13” x 13”. There’s a slot on the back for removing the pillow insert so you can wash the cover. We’re currently waiting on backing fabric for brown and then we’ll start taking orders. I say “we” because my wife will be sewing these. Proceeds will partially go to keeping our Cruiser on the road (which is essentially what CTP does) as well as her vintage clothing obsession/collection.
 
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These will be live tomorrow. The choices are early blue or early tan. I haven’t been able to dig up reproduction upholstery for late 60s/62s. The backs are a nice heavy twill in complementary colors.

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The fill is poly inside a liner - no allergens and no loose fill that can make a mess.

I’m also re-upping on all the stickers I’ve been out of stock on for two years … plus a new sticker design. If it matters, my promise to you is that I will never, under any circumstances, use AI in part or whole - not for stickers, product design, or anything else.
 
my promise to you is that I will never, under any circumstances, use AI in part or whole - not for stickers, product design, or anything else
Sounds like something AI would say…
 
Sounds like something AI would say…
It would be embarrassing to admit the true situation, but … my 14 year old daughter helps me use the Ibis Paint X app on my
Phone to get almost everything done. I do the work but she shows me the tools in the app and how to get the most out of them, she’s really good at it. If I get really stuck I send things to my graphic designer friend for small tweaks (who also designed the brown logo I use most often). The stickers are printed by a local one man shop - he also has a 60. I keep it to real creative humans in about a 10 mile radius.
 
It would be embarrassing to admit the true situation, but … my 14 year old daughter helps me use the Ibis Paint X app on my
Phone to get almost everything done. I do the work but she shows me the tools in the app and how to get the most out of them, she’s really good at it. If I get really stuck I send things to my graphic designer friend for small tweaks (who also designed the brown logo I use most often). The stickers are printed by a local one man shop - he also has a 60. I keep it to real creative humans in about a 10 mile radius.
I'm no slouch in the design dept if you're ever in a bind or just want a different point of view. Happy to help where and how I can.
 
Pillows are live - Get them here!

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Again, these are MADE TO ORDER (by my wife), so please allow up to a week for shipping. Currently we have enough materials to do a handful of each color. I want to see what kind of action these get before ordering more fabric.
 
Following up on the Fj62 fusible link replacement, I was trying to insert the three snipped wires from the truck harness into the connectors, and the OEM wires from the truck harness seem to be a different gauge than the three wires from the new connector. approx 14-16 gauge vs maybe 10-12. I cannot insert the truck wires into the butt connectors. Any advice? Thank you.

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Following up on the Fj62 fusible link replacement, I was trying to insert the three snipped wires from the truck harness into the connectors, and the OEM wires from the truck harness seem to be a different gauge than the three wires from the new connector. approx 14-16 gauge vs maybe 10-12. I cannot insert the truck wires into the butt connectors. Any advice? Thank you.

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Any other markings on those three wires of yours? The red & black don’t look stock at first blush, but it’s hard to tell. We’ll get this figured out!
 
Any other markings on those three wires of yours? The red & black don’t look stock at first blush, but it’s hard to tell. We’ll get this figured out!
Thank you for following up. I don't recall see any other markings, but I will double check. They do appear like they are stock to me-- the color coding matches between the 3 wires on the FLRK and the truck harness, just appears that there is a gauge difference.
 
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Thank you for following up. I don't recall see any other markings, but I will double check. They do appear like they are stock to me-- the color coding matches between the 3 wires on the FLRK and the truck harness, just appears that there is a gauge difference.
The colors match but the shade of red seems a little off from the wires I usually see. I’ve also never seen gauges like that for those wires (if they are indeed the metric equivalent of 10awg). Go ahead and PM me, let’s chat.
 
Alternator bracket proto #2 came, needs one small tweak. I just did the computer tweaks this evening and fired off a small order. These will be live when I have them in hand. 80-to-60 Series Alternator Tension Bracket - https://cruisertrashparts.com/products/80-to-60-series-alternator-tension-bracket

These are actually reasonably priced to have powder coated, so they'll be black! Looks pretty sharp…
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In the photo above you can see the belt is “finger tight”, meaning I pulled the alternator to tension the belt, but hadn’t put the tension bolt on it yet … because the hole for the bolt is too far away haha! A dumb foresight on my part. Everything else about the bracket is just where it needs to be. I made the small edit move by the bent tab with the hole (on the left in the photo) and fired off an order to fab.

@NookShneer You'll notice I trimmed my fan blades like you had done in the original post on this mod. Mine needed that too when test fitting with the original 2F tension bracket. I made some tweaks on this new bracket that should leave enough clearance so the fans don't need to be trimmed. You can see above how much room there is.
 
Well, it's been about year that I've been out of stock on most of my stickers, so I got some more. We've got a great, small, local print shop called Midnight Visuals where I get these done - the owner drives a 60! Can't recommend them enough. Here's the link in case you want some cool stuff to slap on your truck.

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There's a new one in there...

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Based on the iconic surfing film poster...

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I've also got restocks on all these bad boys:

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... and the tricolor yellow/orange/red sticker too.
 
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