Just got the package ! Super stoked super high quality stuff, gonna be another weekend until install as I have to travel this weekend
Cruiser Trash Parts thread
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
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I got a chance to install the FLRK kit on my 62 last weekend and am very pleased. Well thought out design and very high quality. My alternator output increased about .6-.7 volts both at idle and under load, which was one of my big reasons for the install. I was having issues sometimes when stopped at a stoplight, etc. with voltage dropping and idle becoming a bit erratic, I’ve done several other things to address the issue but this was the final piece and seems to have completely fixed the issue. @RevISK just posted some great details in his thread so I won’t repeat it all but have included a few post installation pics below. Thanks Jim!
RevISK
SILVER Star
Looks great! Your engine bay is much cleaner than mine.
- Thread starter
- #344
Cleaner than mine too!
Hey @CruiserTrash Just bought the FJ60 Fusible link yesterday and now I am going down the rabbit hole. Going to buy the Koito lights and module today. Looking at the flasher module now. Wondering if you have a list of the leds you used from superbrightleds for the exterior and if I can push my luck the interior as well. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #346
The following is copied from an email I sent a friend several years ago. All p/ns are SuperBrightLEDs.
Blinker: 1156-A27-T-2PK (x2)
Reverse: 1156-NW27-T-2PK
Tail/Brake: 1157-R27-T-2PK
Front corner: 1156-WW3W-G-2PK
Gauge: 194-GHP (x4)
Cig Lighter backlight: 74-GHP3
Glove box: 74-WWHP3
Dome: 3022-WWHP4-V2
Rear Dome: 3710-WWHP6-V2
Front Side Marker: 194-AHP5 (x2)
Rear Side Marker: 194-RHP5 (x2)
License Plate: 67-NW12-G-2PK
*Both domes take a little contact bending to get the bulb in. I ended up using a 30mm LED festoon bulb from NAPA for the HVAC controls, not sure why. Maybe the 3022-WWHP4-V2 didn't fit. I left the turn signals and other dash indicators (choke, 4wd, etc) as incandescents because they match the brightness of the LED backlights perfectly. All of the LEDs I tried for indicators were too bright. Maybe one day I'll find those. [I have not]
Blinker: 1156-A27-T-2PK (x2)
Reverse: 1156-NW27-T-2PK
Tail/Brake: 1157-R27-T-2PK
Front corner: 1156-WW3W-G-2PK
Gauge: 194-GHP (x4)
Cig Lighter backlight: 74-GHP3
Glove box: 74-WWHP3
Dome: 3022-WWHP4-V2
Rear Dome: 3710-WWHP6-V2
Front Side Marker: 194-AHP5 (x2)
Rear Side Marker: 194-RHP5 (x2)
License Plate: 67-NW12-G-2PK
*Both domes take a little contact bending to get the bulb in. I ended up using a 30mm LED festoon bulb from NAPA for the HVAC controls, not sure why. Maybe the 3022-WWHP4-V2 didn't fit. I left the turn signals and other dash indicators (choke, 4wd, etc) as incandescents because they match the brightness of the LED backlights perfectly. All of the LEDs I tried for indicators were too bright. Maybe one day I'll find those. [I have not]
Hey Jim @CruiserTrash ...it's Anders. My issue with the white alternator wire missing its fusible link, should I just add a FL to it at the battery? And
sorry if I sound dumb...Does the cable going from the new FLRK to alternator take the place of the original white wire going to alt.? Becoming the new fusible link protecting the alternator?
Thanks again!
I sent an email also but thought this might be helpful to other members dealing with non-factory wiring.
sorry if I sound dumb...Does the cable going from the new FLRK to alternator take the place of the original white wire going to alt.? Becoming the new fusible link protecting the alternator?
Thanks again!
I sent an email also but thought this might be helpful to other members dealing with non-factory wiring.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I know you addressed this to Jim but…
I don’t know anything about your first issue but the wire from the FLRK (at least on the one for the FJ62) goes onto the alternator in addition to the existing wire.
I'm going to terminate the wire at the battery, and just keep the other end hooked up at the alternator as per Jim's suggestion.
- Thread starter
- #350
Thanks Ian and @AndersBror. I've been working with Anders via email and we're sorting through some PO monkey business. I think you're pretty close to having things sorted Anders, yeah?
Yep got it sorted out....unfortunately I won't be able finish install till the weekend. Thanks again for all your help!
Cheers!
Anders
@CruiserTrash I’m very interested in the FLRK62 but I don’t have the 3FE anymore. It was replaced with a Chevy TBI 5.7L. The alternator is close to the same location, and I was able to hook up the original alternator harness to the alternator. I was hoping to see a couple pics of the engine bay with the kit installed but haven’t found any. Just so I can get a better idea of how the cables are routed and see if the kit would work for me. If anyone has a couple pics please post.
Here’s a pic of my engine bay. TBI and up is currently removed for fuel line mods.
A couple years ago some of the FL’s were giving me problems and they were removed. It was the one that makes your head lights go out
.
Here’s a pic of my engine bay. TBI and up is currently removed for fuel line mods.
A couple years ago some of the FL’s were giving me problems and they were removed. It was the one that makes your head lights go out
.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I’ll respond to your query tomorrow. I’ve been meaning to but it’s a crazy time.@CruiserTrash I’m very interested in the FLRK62 but I don’t have the 3FE anymore. It was replaced with a Chevy TBI 5.7L. The alternator is close to the same location, and I was able to hook up the original alternator harness to the alternator. I was hoping to see a couple pics of the engine bay with the kit installed but haven’t found any. Just so I can get a better idea of how the cables are routed and see if the kit would work for me. If anyone has a couple pics please post.
Here’s a pic of my engine bay. TBI and up is currently removed for fuel line mods.
View attachment 4058920
A couple years ago some of the FL’s were giving me problems and they were removed. It was the one that makes your head lights go out
- Thread starter
- #354
What air cleaner are you going to use and where is it going to be located? Is the truck a 60 or 62? There are several of my kits out there in V8 swapped trucks - some installations are easy, some take a little DIY ingenuity.@CruiserTrash I’m very interested in the FLRK62 but I don’t have the 3FE anymore. It was replaced with a Chevy TBI 5.7L. The alternator is close to the same location, and I was able to hook up the original alternator harness to the alternator. I was hoping to see a couple pics of the engine bay with the kit installed but haven’t found any. Just so I can get a better idea of how the cables are routed and see if the kit would work for me. If anyone has a couple pics please post.
Here’s a pic of my engine bay. TBI and up is currently removed for fuel line mods.
View attachment 4058920
A couple years ago some of the FL’s were giving me problems and they were removed. It was the one that makes your head lights go out
Below is a customer install photo (I forget if you sent me this Ian, or if it was somebody else). This shows the 62 FLRK fuse panel located at the windshield washer bottle. The red cable coming from the top left goes along the passenger inner fender to the battery. There is also a 4-wire sub harness that goes to the plastic electrical connectors right near the battery. The alternator on a 62 is on the driver side and the cable wraps around the back of the engine by the firewall then along the driver side inner fender. There’s room on all cables & wires to have a little flexibility in routing, but not so much excess that it’s a liability.
Below is a photo of the 60 FLRK. It mounts to the passenger inner fender about 1’ behind the battery. In the photo you can see some fat black cables - to give you a location reference, those are attached to the negative terminal on the battery. The red cable coming to the foreground goes to the positive battery terminal and red cable below that (resting on the inner fender) goes to the alternator (passenger side on a 2F motor). You can also see an 8” sub harness with a plastic connector that snaps into the truck’s harness directly below the fuse panel. Typically this location can’t be used on FJ62s and non-US 60s in general because the air cleaner mounts where the fuse panel goes.
Note: the 60 FLRK shows my prototype that I built and installed in my truck years ago. I now put expandable serving over the red cables for protection.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Crapoop…
@klip
My flight was earlier than I thought or I stayed up later than planned. Either way, I ran out of time to snap some pics. Maybe Jim @CruiserTrash can accommodate the pic of the inside of the brains box?
As for how the cables are run, the alternator run is 9’ I believe and is perfect for running from the wash bottle mount location to the stock alternator spot. The cable is run along the firewall to the driver side fender and down to the alt positive terminal.
The other cables are short runs straight to the stock battery location.
Hope this helps?
Happy new year,
Ian
Just what I needed to know. Sorry for leaving out some important details, this is on a 62 and I’m using the stock Chevy air filter. The big round one right on top of the engine. I think the 62 kit will work for me. Thank you @RevISK and @CruiserTrash. Happy new year!
RevISK
SILVER Star
It’s a great and well thought out kit.
Order placed!
RevISK
SILVER Star
After 15,000 units are sold I get a nickel per order.
- Thread starter
- #360
Only if I can put your logo on them.
@klip order received! Thanks! I have the fire extinguisher bracket and everything for the FLRK ready to go … except the bracket for the FLRK. Those are in the mail headed my way from the fab shop and will be here next week. I’ll get everything shipped out ASAP when those are in my hands.