Clutch fork side and disengagement- does it matter?

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Joined
Oct 27, 2022
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33
Messages
504
Location
Colorado
Had an H55f installed in my 40. Re-used the bell housing from my 1981 FJ45, which was the cast iron bell housing. The H55 is brand new from Toyota. It is very tough to shift, and I know it may need some wearing in, but it just doesn't "feel" right. When the shop installed everything, they moved the clutch fork to the driver's side, and the pivot ball (obviously) as well. While it appears to "fit" there, the machining on the housing is different where the pivot ball installed from one side to the other, so its currently at an angle, and to me clearly looks wrong.

The clutch engages super low, like nearly at the floor low. The slave is brand new, and ordered to match the fj45. I put in a new master, for 75+ trucks, and haven't given it a drive yet, but it appears to be the same engagement point. the Slave is adjusted with the rod all the way extended. The master is adjust nearly to the end of the push rod as well. When I'm underneath and have my son work the pedal, at fully disengaged, there is more than 1/4in air gap between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate. Makes sense this huge air gap is causing a lot of travel at the clutch pedal before anything happens. The fork seems to have way too much travel as is to be setup right.

Its hard to see in the photos, because I had trouble getting it to focus on the right spot, but you can see the pivot ball has a large hex nut at its base, and being installed on the driver's side causes it to not sit flush on the inside of the bell housing.

Hoping to go armed with more concrete info before I take it back to the installing shop, so my questions are:

1- does it matter which side the pivot arm is coming from? I.E. is the throw going to be the same from side to side, even if the pivot ball install looks janky?

2- when underneath, should you be able to see the clutch disc completely disengage from the flywheel at full depression? I.E. should there be be an air gap between the clutch disc and the flywheel when the pedal is all the way in?

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I'll add that this H55 replaced a 3spd.
 
Have you tried shortening the adjustment rod adjustment? I think if it was shortened a bit there wouldn't be as much of a gap. The clutch disc should completely disengage. It doesn't take much of a gap. I've swapped slave sides when I removed the 3 speed and went to a stock 4 speed and sbc without any issues.
 
Have you tried shortening the adjustment rod adjustment? I think if it was shortened a bit there wouldn't be as much of a gap. The clutch disc should completely disengage. It doesn't take much of a gap. I've swapped slave sides when I removed the 3 speed and went to a stock 4 speed and sbc without any issues.
maybe I'm being dense here, but wouldn't shortening the slave rod make the air gap larger?
 
My apologies, I thought you were talking about an air gap between the pp and clutch disc. The only things to check is pedal height adjustment, and free play, but it sounds like you have that covered. You could try bleeding the slave and see if that changes the engagement point. The piston needs to be fully retracted in the slave cylinder and has a return spring. Other than that, maybe making or finding a longer rod if there's room between the pp and throw out bearing to try and get a higher engagement.
 
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