One inch of pedal travel is too much. Adjust the pedal to 1/8" and report.
Tranny/Clutch issue
- Thread starter jkl72-40
- Start date
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What do you mean a bear? Grinding badly or just won't drop in gear?. It's likely going to Grinding a bit because those gears aren't syncronized.
If you get the pedal and the T/O adjusted properly and it is still a problem, unfortunately the odds are good that your input shaft is binding on the pilot bearing/bushing. Most people don’t pay nearly enough to checking those tolerances before installation. And with an early Chebby conversion, it’s entirely possible that they used a bronze bushing that the I.D. ‘shrunk’ on during installation, causing the input shaft to get pinched.
I was thinking the same as @65swb45, I wonder if the input shaft is hanging up with the pilot bearing or the pressure plate isn't totally releasing. I'd suggest crawling under the 40 while its running while in neutral and have someone push the clutch in. Don't have them attempt to put in gear, just have them push in and out the clutch by your command. With the cluch pushed in you need to try and see if the disc or the splined input shaft stops or slows down significantly while the clutch is pushed in. I know it's going to be difficult to see because the flywheel is stepped. You might try a practice run 1st b4 you start it, so you know how to look at it when its running. Be careful
Mark, you are one smart cookie! If I can remember this I will have learned something today!
- Thread starter
- #29
No chevy conversion on this
- Thread starter
- #30
Ok here was the issue! When the guy put the tranny back in one of the pins fell into the tranny so it was only held by 1 pin so when I tried to go into reverse it would twist and not go in. We drained the oil and found pin 2 at the magnet on the drain bolt and now it shifts well and normal! Am looking into replacing the pin as they are a bit mangled.
https://www.sor.com/cat/056#tab2 part 35
I would just make new dowels. A drill motor and a file plus a grade 8 bolt. Measure the size of the dowel for the two diameters and the length. Pound them in with some loctite. As a kid I made dozens of firing pins with a egg beater drill and aircraft bolts for my dad's repairs to old shotguns.
My guess is that the bushings on the clutch pedal were shot allowing lots of lateral play - someone replaced them and the slop has been corrected.
I would just make new dowels. A drill motor and a file plus a grade 8 bolt. Measure the size of the dowel for the two diameters and the length. Pound them in with some loctite. As a kid I made dozens of firing pins with a egg beater drill and aircraft bolts for my dad's repairs to old shotguns.
My guess is that the bushings on the clutch pedal were shot allowing lots of lateral play - someone replaced them and the slop has been corrected.
Could the "throw" on the clutch fork be impaired by using the wrong pivot ball? 
For the record, proof there are two different pivot balls, seen in the same room at the same time:
As reported by @65swb45, "Long one for the 3 finger; short one for the diaphragm."
As reported by @65swb45, "Long one for the 3 finger; short one for the diaphragm."
