Builds Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

[red66toy]

Here is better picture of early and later one.
View attachment 3269574

Thanks! Do you by chance have any dimensions for the early boy?

 

[tahoe40/45]

Thanks! Do you by chance have any dimensions for the early boy?

Yes. Ill be near one tomorrow.

 

[middlecalf]

I've got a couple of the early ones I can measure as well (if I remember ). They came out of my '65 40 and have assumed they were original to it. I was going to use them in my '63 45 instead, but the holes in the mounts in that rig (which I'm pretty certain are original) are smaller in diameter and these retainers don't fit in them ???? It's been a while since I chased this, I was going to try and figure out if there's an even earlier version of these, so for the 25's or such since my '63 is more like a '62 in a lot of parts. So maybe another dimension to all this.

 

[red66toy]

Yes. Ill be near one tomorrow.

I've got a couple of the early ones I can measure as well (if I remember ). They came out of my '65 40 and have assumed they were original to it. I was going to use them in my '63 45 instead, but the holes in the mounts in that rig (which I'm pretty certain are original) are smaller in diameter and these retainers don't fit in them ???? It's been a while since I chased this, I was going to try and figure out if there's an even earlier version of these, so for the 25's or such since my '63 is more like a '62 in a lot of parts. So maybe another dimension to all this.

Thanks! I am going to try and make a pair for myself. Feeling crazy enough. hahaha . Logic should dictate I should go with the later style... because it's way easier to find a pin. But that wonky early version just needs to happen.

 

[65swb45]

IMO, the earlier style looks like a smaller version of a particle board shelf bracket. I have the OE in the’68 and the’69 and sometimes find myself using them while camping for the novelty of offering a visitor a seat.

 

[tahoe40/45]

Older one is off of a 1963 FJ45, newer one is off of a 1972 FJ40.

 

[red66toy]

Older one is off of a 1963 FJ45, newer one is off of a 1972 FJ40.
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You are awesome!! Thank you so much for that. Really appreciate it

 

[red66toy]

I got new lines made to the MC! There is something fun about making new brake lines. Also got a new MC in for the clutch. The OG one just looks too out of place now... and it was leaking badly. Plan is to swap the tin cup and end cap over.

 

[red66toy]

I am dealing with a super stubborn air in the rear brake circuit. I have run almost a gallon of fluid through at this point and I can still press on the pedal and spin the back tires with my hand. Not good. So there has to be air in there somewhere. I have been using a MOTIV pressure bleeder at 15PSI. Usually works a treat, but for some reason its not getting some stubborn air out. Not sure what the next move is.

 

[Skreddy]

Do you have the rears adjusted pretty much all the way tight to the drums for bleeding?

Out of curiosity, which port do you have to which line on the master (front to front or front to rears?).

 

[65swb45]

From 2008:

Master Cylinder Residual Valve

Yes, there is a top and bottom hole. I don't know what you mean by the "taps are in the center". Pictures might help.The bleeder is always at the very top because bubbles rise. It sounds strange that you would have to turn them the opposite way that the manual says. Maybe you flopped them L...

forum.ih8mud.com

Post #28

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[red66toy]

Do you have the rears adjusted pretty much all the way tight to the drums for bleeding?

Out of curiosity, which port do you have to which line on the master (front to front or front to rears?).

I adjusted the drums to “lightly dragging” but not all the way tight. I’ll give that a try!
The lines are front front, rear rear.

 

[red66toy]

From 2008:

Master Cylinder Residual Valve

Yes, there is a top and bottom hole. I don't know what you mean by the "taps are in the center". Pictures might help.The bleeder is always at the very top because bubbles rise. It sounds strange that you would have to turn them the opposite way that the manual says. Maybe you flopped them L...

forum.ih8mud.com

Post #28

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Thanks Mark! That is definitely the nuclear option. Hoping I wont have to go that route...but its good to know there is one more play to make.

 

[Skreddy]

There’s been some discussion on here about using that master and which port goes where. I run the rear port to front brakes. I know others run the way you do. I chose the way I have it because when bench bleeding, the rear port started pushing fluid before the front which, to me, means that is front brakes (brake bias toward front).

Just something to think about if you end up unhappy with braking performance.

 

[red66toy]

There’s been some discussion on here about using that master and which port goes where. I run the rear port to front brakes. I know others run the way you do. I chose the way I have it because when bench bleeding, the rear port started pushing fluid before the front which, to me, means that is front brakes (brake bias toward front).

Just something to think about if you end up unhappy with braking performance.

Interesting! I hadn't seen anything about that but I will look into it.

 

[cruisermatt]

what MC is that and does it have a residual valve? Also sounds like you don't have the shoes adjusted out far enough.

 

[red66toy]

what MC is that and does it have a residual valve? Also sounds like you don't have the shoes adjusted out far enough.

Its an early 80 MC with front disc rear drum. Advics BMT-044

 

[red66toy]

Finally got a chance to tackle the brakes again. The pump for my pressure bleeder died so I had to wait for a new one to come in. I was able to get a lot of air out this time. A combination of pumping the brake pedal and pressure system helped. Also, thank you @cruisermatt for planting the seed of doubt on the brake adjustment maybe being not quite right. I think they were adjusted too loose.
Need to pick up a new battery tomorrow so I can finally fire this truck back up! Thanks @Kleatus for always answering my text questions.

 

[red66toy]

Finally got to pull the 40 out and check the engine tune again. I think fixing that dizzy line leak helped. But it was still not running well enough. Vacuum was almost 19”. A friend suggested I check the dwell and lent me a dwell meter. Sure enough it was a bit less than 35 degrees. It supposed to be between 38-44! So I adjusted the gap to 0.024” and got it right at 40. Engine seems happy when warmed. Pulling almost 20” of vacuum now and it seems best at 12.

Big thanks to @mattressking for a ton of help figuring out the tuning issues!

On the brakes front I have come to the conclusion that I need a residual valve for the rear circuit. If the MC has one already… it’s not enough for those rear drums. Going to put in a 10lb Wilwood unit and hopefully that solves the double pump issue.

 

[red66toy]

Worked on restoring some of the dash knobs! Installed a throttle knob bezel that I was missing. Thankfully Wits End made some! I sanded the knobs lightly with 400grit. Filled the letters with white epoxy. Then a top coat of 1K SEM semi gloss. Perfect! I think the full gloss is too shiny.