Builds Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

City Racer sourced on the left and used on the right. There looks to be an old TEQ logo on the side of the used ones but I believe they are rebuilt so maybe the adjuster wheel is aftermarket already.
F55F4CC8-7473-46B0-A683-A3759DC03583.webp
 
If your old cylinders are still OE Toyota I would not toss them in the garbage. They can be sleeved and rebuilt for future use.
Yeah I’ll keep them around. I think they are. The logo is pretty degraded but I can’t imagine it’s any other.
 
A very special item arrived today from @swamp-thing ! So so cool to finally have a period correct factory jack for the 40! Thanks @swamp-thing :cheers:
IMG_1444.jpeg


Brake work update, waiting for some final parts to come in at the dealership. I also started installing the Koito H4 retrofit kit. Lots of trimming and cleaning up of that harness going on to make it a clean install. Almost done though.
 
Still waiting on brake parts… and now a small part for the headlight harness install. So time to pivot and stay productive. I bought an old Denso clamshell heater a while back that needs some love. The electric motor has some shaft play. Took it apart and it’s clear the poor thing needed oil. Bushing packing is dry and it definitely needs some more shims to eliminate the play. McMaster Carr to the rescue… now while I wait on those I guess I’ll get back to attacking rust with Fluid Film. :p
0ECDB87A-E098-40BB-A592-FED58E5AE88A.webp

I was able to complete one project and install the jack. :grinpimp:
F1238A57-E6DD-45D8-8F1C-89E1231738C1.webp
 
Brake parts finally came in this past weekend. Time to reconstruct the brakes!
IMG_1520.jpeg

IMG_1524.jpeg

Now the fun part of bleeding and adjusting. Then a test drive! Next brake project down the road is a new 80 series MC.
 
One step forward and two steps back! Got the brakes all squared away... and now I cannot get a firm pedal feel. I think the MC is bad. I have bled the system 5 times now and I can still press the pedal to the firewall. Ugh.
The MC is an old chevy S10 unit. I think its time to go back to Toyota. Looking at other builds, it seems like the non-ABS 80 series MC is the way to go in a non-boosted old 40 with front discs and rear drums. Need to snag a firewall adapter from Mark and I should be good to go.
 
Finished the Toyota H4 headlamp assembly install. What a treat when it all works just right. I cut a lot of wire out. Love that light. The high beam indicator is weak, I think I need a new bulb or to polish the little "lens" on the cluster.
IMG_1678.webp
 
80 MC arrived and I swapped out the cap for a non-switch version.
1465C444-8DB9-40AA-ACD0-F516E61661E4.webp

I noticed I am missing one of these wiper motor wire holders… anyone have an extra in a stash? :)
D0497BD3-CCBD-4FED-9B8A-CE708D8F7BB2.webp
 
Got some new rubber brake lines and drive shaft U-joints in from @cruiseroutfit a couple days ago. When I had the driveshaft out I noticed the joints only moved in very notchy movements.... not good. So add that project to the list! :p Putting 80 series rubber brake lines on the front for each knuckle and a new rear rubber line.

Gave Mark @65swb45 a ring the other day and have a firewall adapter and wiper motor harness clip on the way!
So close to actually driving this again. Sometimes trying to get out of project black holes feels like digging a hole in dry sand. The more you try to dig, the more it fills in. Hopefully I can wrap up the brakes finally and the driveshaft so I can confirm if I solved the vacuum leak. hahaha :D I know you can all relate. Thanks for following along and knowing the strife. :cheers:
Dreams.jpg
 
As I work on essential items I can’t help but periodically tinker on non-essential fun ones. Case in point, an old Denso clamshell heater. This one came to me stripped of paint. So now I am trying to decide what color I should go for. The doors are aluminum so those will stay “raw”. But the surrounding metal, Should I go for a OEM pewter color or black? Thoughts?
11999094-EFC3-466A-8D7A-35227D2BA217.webp
 
4DBBAE7E-6B0D-423A-BD1F-86DCC882CE7B.webp
 
Ah, so nice to have the driveshaft in and fully refreshed. It was previously held in with a random assortment of hardware store bolts! So now its got the correct OEM 8mm bolts, nuts and washers, new Matsuba U-joints and a new rubber boot! The OEM rubber boot was of course NLA. So I figured out that a driveshaft boot from a tacoma can work! :) Still in the yota family so I ran with it. :steer:
Driveshaft.webp


When pulling the old U-joints I realized they were original units! Amazing. One was completely toasted, one still had some life left. Good quality parts.
Joint.webp
 
80 series rear brake lines in for each front 60 caliper. Good to have fresh rubber lines all around! Thanks to @cruiseroutfit for helping figure out the front rubber lines and @NookShneer for the hose clips! :cheers:
A500A69D-46D5-497A-A50D-F08167D7C44F.webp


836010A2-724B-4A7D-949C-5338A3A15486.webp

Got the MC firewall adapter in from Mark today. Going to give it a coat of black paint tomorrow and hopefully get the new MC bolted up soon after.
 
80series MC (Advics BMT-044) mounted with Mark's firewall adapter. I didnt want a bright silver MC again in the engine bay so I painted it black with engine enamel. I am sure it wont last with brake fluid... but I liked the black as its at least a nod to what was supposed to be there. Definitely need to address the clutch MC now, hahahaha.
Last piece of the puzzle is making two new lines to run to the MC. Thankfully @TheNeek has this "ultimate set of tools" he is letting me use to make the lines. :grinpimp:
80 MC mounted.webp
 
Anyone know what style pins were used for the driver’s seat mounts? I know there is a little chain that attached to that ring… but then to some kind of lock pin. Is it just a cotter pin?
D42F2ED4-8445-449D-9FFE-F814FC5B0A0A.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom