Builds Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

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Took the PCV valve off of my engine and the spare. Both seem to be Chevy PCV valves!
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The one on the left was on the spare engine and has 15mm of easy plunger travel. The one on the right was on the engine in my truck. It’s much stiffer and has about 4-5mm of travel. Very different. Im guessing the one on my truck is not operating correctly.

Anyone know what the travel is on the OEM PCV valve?
 
I tried getting mine apart but the hose is stuck. I'd have to cut it. I'll see if I can unbolt it without removing the hose and take a measurement.
Thanks! I had to use an impact diver to get mine off though. Buggers were stuck on tight!
 
Ok looking for vacuum leaks and a local cruiserhead suggested I check the distributor circuit. Sure enough, the line doesn't hold a vacuum! The actual diaphragm on the distributor thankfully does, phew. So I need to make a new line and get new olives. Line looks to be 3mm OD or 1/8” copper line. The compression olives/sleeves seem to be the hard things to find. Anyone have a good source?

I am not sure this is my main vacuum leak since the tubing is VERY small but it could have been causing the dizzy to not work correctly. :hmm:
 
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Yeah I’m anxiously watching so you can figure out your issue so then I can figure out mine 😆.

In the mean time you could hook a 1/8” ID rubber hose from ported vacuum (?) port to the dizzy and see if that makes any difference.
 
Yeah I’m anxiously watching so you can figure out your issue so then I can figure out mine 😆.

In the mean time you could hook a 1/8” ID rubber hose from ported vacuum (?) port to the dizzy and see if that makes any difference.
Yeah I can try and figure out a way to attach a hose nipple on the carb and dizzy. Both are technically female ports so I cant just plug in a rubber hose. :( .
Looks like maybe some laboratory supply house in the UK may have some 3mm brass compression olives. hahaha We will see.
 
Ok found some 3mm copper compression olives from a train hobby store! I had to buy 10 so if these work and anyone wants any you are welcome to them. :)
I’ll report back once they get here. I also ordered some 3mm brass line from McMaster-Carr .
 
The smallest tubing bender just showed up at the house for this job. Hahaha
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I tried getting mine apart but the hose is stuck. I'd have to cut it. I'll see if I can unbolt it without removing the hose and take a measurement.

I finally got some time to wrench. I got the hose off but the thing is stuck in place. I'll need to heat it up and/or pull the oil fill tube and use a vise or whatever. I need to do this anyway to make sure it's not stuck so no worries. But here are some pics. Of course the numbers are on the back. Probably not helpful to you without measuring but hopefully useful to others down the road.


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Well the micrometer gauge lied to me. Turns out the vac line is 1/8”. Or at least that is what my fittings were made for. Quick trip to the local metal supply store and I had a 6’ straight piece of copper tubing in hand. All bent up and secured now. Holding a vacuum as well. Next steps are to fix the rear brakes. Test drive. Then tear out the transfer case so I can send it down to @orangefj45 for a refresh and mate it to a H42.
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So… stumble…? 😝
 
So… stumble…? 😝
Need to fix my leaking rear wheel cylinder... then test drive.
I am going to take the wheel off tonight and get at it. I promise to report back on if these fixed the stumble. :D
 
These cylinders were definitely toast!
Rust .webp

All full of rusty fluid. I have new cylinders ready to go from @Racer65 and shoes and hardware from @cruiseroutfit . I am debating on the drums (get turned or replace) and whether to replace the axle seals and bearings while I am digging in. That is a bit of a rabbit hole so on the fence about it.
 
These cylinders were definitely toast!

All full of rusty fluid. I have new cylinders ready to go from @Racer65 and shoes and hardware from @cruiseroutfit . I am debating on the drums (get turned or replace) and whether to replace the axle seals and bearings while I am digging in. That is a bit of a rabbit hole so on the fence about it.

Well, while you’re in there…..The words “Land Cruiser” are actually from ancient Sumeria, roughly translated in English as “Rabbit Hole”. Pretty sure I’ve seen on a clay tablet somewhere…
 
These cylinders were definitely toast!
View attachment 3223831
All full of rusty fluid. I have new cylinders ready to go from @Racer65 and shoes and hardware from @cruiseroutfit . I am debating on the drums (get turned or replace) and whether to replace the axle seals and bearings while I am digging in. That is a bit of a rabbit hole so on the fence about it.
If you do decide to replace the axel seals and bearings "while you are in there" remember that the axle has pressed on races (at least ours did). I ended up taking them to a machine shop that could press them off. But it is a nice feeling to go back with new seals and bearings.
 
If you do decide to replace the axel seals and bearings "while you are in there" remember that the axle has pressed on races (at least ours did). I ended up taking them to a machine shop that could press them off. But it is a nice feeling to go back with new seals and bearings.
That is great to know about the races! Thanks :cheers:
 
Well, while you’re in there…..The words “Land Cruiser” are actually from ancient Sumeria, roughly translated in English as “Rabbit Hole”. Pretty sure I’ve seen on a clay tablet somewhere…
I know, what the heck am I thinking. :slap::worms: Hahahaha
 
Make sure to note the orientation of the adjusters with the ramped slots from the existing cylinders and install them the same way on the new cylinders. I haven't seen new cylinders with ramped slots but City Racer seems to get the details correct so it might not be an issue.
Ooh, I’ll pay attention to that. Thank you. One side it still intact so I can reference.
 

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