Build Chronicles of Bonnie and Clyde
- Thread starter greenbeast
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- #1,082
It did not.
- Thread starter
- #1,083
Just looking at it the engine the front is high. Been crawling around looking at front engine mount heights. I only work till noon tomorrow. So will do some better recon and try identify some solutions.
Need to read through Delancy’s thread again and see if they make some mods and if so for what reason.
Also want to review frame dimensions and see if there are differences between 69 and 76?
@DTC72 has 69 he made work so it’s doable. If I have to transplant things to original frame and make corrections then it is what it is.
I have options.
Always say it’s a marathon not a sprint!
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I used the brake booster, master cylinder, and mount adapter 3 bolt to 4 bolt from JT Outfitters...which is based on mini-truck components. I put in a 1985 2F. Also a new H55F 5 speed, and a 1987 split transfer case both from Valley Hybrids. The 2F engine with existing steel mounts fit right into the '69 frame with new motor mounts from Cruiser Outfitters. The transmission cross member was a whole different situation that required some custom work. I used an early 60 series 3-piece cross member from Classic Cruisers custom fit with the two end pieces welded to the frame along with a standard transmission mount from Cruiser Outfitters. I had to cut a new hole in the transmission tunnel to accommodate the transfer case shifter. All the standard 60 series transmission linkages bolted to the H55F worked fine with this setup. New old school replica knobs from City Racer with the 5-speed shift pattern shown. Also, I used 60 series drive shafts adjusted for correct length by a local shop.
- Thread starter
- #1,085
This is consistent with what I have. 2F with H55F custom fab crossmember. From looking at what it tonight I would make rough guess that the front of the engine needs to be brought down at least an inch.
Alignment front to rear is similar to yours, from pics you shared they look close. However the rear valve cover on Clyde appears lower than yours and the front higher.
Hmmm…didn’t have to do anything special when we stabbed in the engine. It just fit and looked about right in its placement. The only tight area was the fan and how close it was to the radiator. Also used a 60 series fan shroud that was cut to fit and seems to work well.
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- #1,087
Trying to get front shot the PS reservoir and fan are too high. I noticed this after swap but got carried away doing other things. Now just need to figure out why.
Nothing changed regarding the chassis between the 76 body and 69 body,
Maybe rear of body is hung up somehow. Will crawl under tomorrow and take better look. That would explain the slight crab appearance.
Nothing changed regarding the chassis between the 76 body and 69 body,
Maybe rear of body is hung up somehow. Will crawl under tomorrow and take better look. That would explain the slight crab appearance.
- Thread starter
- #1,088
I should say i knew there were some differences with the brake and clutch cylinders but felt those could be overcome with some minor changes and use of adapter.
Since @DTC72 also used different breather I may be looking that way also after some of this is sorted out.
Appreciate the help!
Assuming he just used the factory engine frame mounts (and can’t imagine why he wouldn’t), it could be the transmission crossmember is slightly lower since it would have been fabbed? You can also mix and match the engine mounts from different years (1F/2F/3F) to some extent, I had to do this when I swapped a 3F to get it placed correctly. Just to say maybe he did here, or you could to tweak placement a bit. As long as you have a gap to firewall and can fit all components & get valve cover off you are usually ok, the Toyota mounts don’t give much.
- Thread starter
- #1,090
After sleeping on it and reviewing Chris’s old thread this seems like it may be related to body alignment on the chassis. Could be wrong but with nothing changing on the 76 chassis maybe it’s hung up past the engine forcing things upward in front of the fulcrum where ever that may be.
Nothing changed with the chassis. Although there are some differences in where brake and clutch cylinders were on firewall in 69 I can’t find where any body mods were made when Robbie was doing his thing to Chris’s pig.
Since I can’t download pics to company computer here at work today I took some poor snapshots with phone.
Nothing changed with the chassis. Although there are some differences in where brake and clutch cylinders were on firewall in 69 I can’t find where any body mods were made when Robbie was doing his thing to Chris’s pig.
Since I can’t download pics to company computer here at work today I took some poor snapshots with phone.
That should be easy enough to find Jon, if that's the issue. Did all the body mount bolts go through enough to get the washers and nuts on? If so then my guess is that it isn't that unless those are longer body mount bolts than OEM.
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- #1,092
Fulcrum found.
Frame pads are shouldering most of the body weight. The body mounts are not secured and they are just sitting on with old hardware securing them in place. Body mounts in front and behind these have decent gaps and those in rear have the most which helps explain the nose low attitude.
If washers present this would minimize this obviously.
Frame pads are shouldering most of the body weight. The body mounts are not secured and they are just sitting on with old hardware securing them in place. Body mounts in front and behind these have decent gaps and those in rear have the most which helps explain the nose low attitude.
If washers present this would minimize this obviously.
Well that's not good. Here's the body mount diagram for a 1969.
And here's the one for a 1976. I haven't studied them in detail but they look pretty similar at first glance.
And here's the one for a 1976. I haven't studied them in detail but they look pretty similar at first glance.
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- #1,095
I do think it’s some of the issue. Body could be better aligned and i would gain little improvement. In process of putting Kroil on the 69’s frame bolts. Posted engine/tranny for sale little while ago.
After crawling under Clyde the frame is the only thing that has not been preserved. Considering doing something similar to what @WarDamnEagle
did with his frame. Of course creates more work but have chance to do it all right from the get go.
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- #1,096
Amazing the progression through the years. Removing brake lines and couplers on Clyde’s frame unveils interesting changes.
Interesting how the 69 front brakes have crazy long brake lines to the front drums. Then the hard brake line goes through the shock mount. Of course this made what should have been easy removal a little tougher.
Need to remove spare tire carrier. However with the expensive mod using 2” pipe actually welded to the bracket itself I set out to lower tire and go to town with grinder.
Then I can find 2 of the 3 pieces to lower it. The part I’m missing is the part that fits into mechanism to lower it. Now to search barn and other cruises to find one.
Interesting how the 69 front brakes have crazy long brake lines to the front drums. Then the hard brake line goes through the shock mount. Of course this made what should have been easy removal a little tougher.
Need to remove spare tire carrier. However with the expensive mod using 2” pipe actually welded to the bracket itself I set out to lower tire and go to town with grinder.
Then I can find 2 of the 3 pieces to lower it. The part I’m missing is the part that fits into mechanism to lower it. Now to search barn and other cruises to find one.
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- Thread starter
- #1,098
Going to salvage all the 10mm brake fittings. Think I’ll invest in small ultrasonic cleaner to clean all these small parts. Things coming off nicely and are in nice shape and always nice to have these spares.
Not trying to dissuade you but there are almost exact matches available for the 10mm size. No idea on the 9mm though.
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- #1,100
Well I’ll have them in case a need arises I guess.