Build Chronicles of Bonnie and Clyde
- Thread starter greenbeast
- Start date
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And some of us know your dog can drive a Pig.
- Thread starter
- #845
Swapping a 2F into 1969 F engine, any mods to engine mounts?
Seems like @DTC72 did something along same route?
Seems like @DTC72 did something along same route?
No mods to the engine mounts in the frame needed. Get the correct rubber mounts from for the 2F and you are good to go.
Had a bit of time yesterday so removed the old steering box and mocked up an 80 box.
It clears the aftermarket shock tower but I'll give it a little bit more clearance for good measure.
It clears the aftermarket shock tower but I'll give it a little bit more clearance for good measure.
You will love the new PS.
That last set up - hmm...
JC was THE MAN!I need to apologize. I guess my photography skills aren't quite as good as they should be and noticed the background is very blurry and out of focus on this image I sent to Jon.
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As we know, it is @RUSH55 job to go through our backgrounds with his magnifying glass looking for clues and any oddities. While I'm sure he has the technical expertise to enhance the background and extract the vital information needed, I thought I would just take a separate photo to simplify and save some time. Let me know if I can help any more.
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Sorry @bobm I don't have a dog so you'll need to continue to provide
A couple of photos showing clearance while I had the drivetrain in to design and mock up the trans crossmember. Engine mounts are placed allowing clearance at the rear of the transfer. Fits up into the existing floor tunnel nicely. Tried to show clearance around the transmission. Good clearance for the front diff and exhaust manifolds. In case I didn't mention it earlier - muscle car pan on the motor for better clearance.
The engine will sit slightly to driver for just a touch more clearance on the front diff. At the front of the engine there's almost 9 inches of clearance to the core support. The radiator and fan package is about 6 inches deep, so just under 3 inches between the electric fan and the crank pulley.
Drivetrain is out for hopefully the last time while I get a couple parts laser cut for the crossmember. I needed a bit more accuracy than my plasma table.
Hopefully this shows a little more clearly that the 6l80 is a perfectly fine choice for a 55. The transfercase is the lowest point, but it is in a stock truck too. From the side only the output side of the transfer is below the frame rail, same as in a stock truck.
The engine will sit slightly to driver for just a touch more clearance on the front diff. At the front of the engine there's almost 9 inches of clearance to the core support. The radiator and fan package is about 6 inches deep, so just under 3 inches between the electric fan and the crank pulley.
Drivetrain is out for hopefully the last time while I get a couple parts laser cut for the crossmember. I needed a bit more accuracy than my plasma table.
Hopefully this shows a little more clearly that the 6l80 is a perfectly fine choice for a 55. The transfercase is the lowest point, but it is in a stock truck too. From the side only the output side of the transfer is below the frame rail, same as in a stock truck.
It's an automatic. The VSS is internal. If we were running a manual trans we'd need an external VSS like the JTR on the back of the transfer.
- Thread starter
- #854
Story of my life, plan something there is a 99% chance it’s going to change. Body swap didn’t happen as planned so now considering pulling the 2F out of Delancy’s old pig turn 180 degree’s and put it in the new pig. I’m sure I will kick this plan around a 100 times but the frame on the 69 is as clean as they come so little swap here and there with engine tranny and axles and then work on the rest of it.
Which raises the question regarding electrical. Do you pull the harness out to the 76 and swap to the 69 or go with one of the painless wiring set up? IF painless wiring is good way to go to update everything is there specific kit that is preferred or has been used with the pigs (considering someone has gone this route). Or is there a better set up someone has experience with?
Been too busy recently even to mess with it as I have been working to knock the dust off my flying so I can do some with my son which is in flight school. Daughter home from Spring break but leaves tomorrow so life in shop starts up again in next couple weeks.
Taking Steve Bonnie’s new gas tank this Friday so hopefully share some pics of the progress Saturday evening.
Which raises the question regarding electrical. Do you pull the harness out to the 76 and swap to the 69 or go with one of the painless wiring set up? IF painless wiring is good way to go to update everything is there specific kit that is preferred or has been used with the pigs (considering someone has gone this route). Or is there a better set up someone has experience with?
Been too busy recently even to mess with it as I have been working to knock the dust off my flying so I can do some with my son which is in flight school. Daughter home from Spring break but leaves tomorrow so life in shop starts up again in next couple weeks.
Taking Steve Bonnie’s new gas tank this Friday so hopefully share some pics of the progress Saturday evening.
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Would it be an option to have someone like Coolerman build a new harness for what you need. Putting an old harness in your rebuilt wagon doesn't seem to be the right answer.
- Thread starter
- #856
Ron, agree that’s why I’m asking. Seems like opportunity to redo so much and make it mo better.
I’d have to reach out to him and ask if that’s an option. Kims 40 has rebuilt harness just not sure how much he has dabbled in the pig world.
Painless would be my last choice.
If over the counter is what you're looking for American Auto Wire is better but custom built exactly for you is "MO" better...
- Thread starter
- #859
Pull it, tack it on some plywood and refurb away to keep as close to spec as possible?
Something like that. Maybe some butcher paper on the plywood to write on. Get new, correct connectors to match your switches. Maybe add a modren type relay here and there, like for your horn.