I wanted to do my frame in Steel It Black until I saw the price.
anyone know anyone in TN on I40???
- Thread starter Lifelong40Fan
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nice work!
- Thread starter
- #63
The lift arrived today. Gotta rearrange the garage this afternoon to start working on the 55. Lift and disc brake axle going in. So tempting to go full bore and swap in 2F and h41/split case. But think that’ll need to wait for another day.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Yeah baby! Let’s go!!
- Thread starter
- #65
Front just about completed. Front springs in, disc brake axle in, new calipers and pads in, brake lines all in and connected. The tie rod ends should arrive tomorrow and once they're in, that completes the front. I ordered a new brake booster and MC today. Decided to go with early 80 series units. I was going to put in a proportioning valve too. Anyone have any suggestions on the proportioning valve??? Cheers!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I like Wilwood’s adjustable proportioning valve.
Might be a little late to install right now, but I’ll make the suggestion to at some point in the not so distant future to sleeve the frame and run the long boomerang shackles like Jim did and then change over to the 4+ U-bolt flips. Then some power steering will of course be inevitable.
Might be a little late to install right now, but I’ll make the suggestion to at some point in the not so distant future to sleeve the frame and run the long boomerang shackles like Jim did and then change over to the 4+ U-bolt flips. Then some power steering will of course be inevitable.
- Thread starter
- #67
I had seriously considered PS - even bought an FJ62 PS box but decided against it at this point. The plan is to finish the lift, but I also have everything I need for a rear disc brake conversion, so might get off track a bit and do that while I've got the back end off the ground doing the lift. I'm simply wanting to get it running and ready for a possible PP in NM/CO this summer. Before the PP, I want to add EFI, get it painted, and add new 33x10.50 tires (and, maybe, rims). May also change the diffs to 3.70 and put in Aussie locker and LSD in there - just not convinced which one goes where if I do that. 3.70s would be much better on highways to NM, but not so great wheeling with the stock 3 speed. Any thoughts on swapping gears to 3.70s and wheeling (not rock crawling) with a 3 speed????
After possible PP, then may add a 2F/H41/split case, PS and @RUSH55 suggestions on ubolts. Got all those parts ready to go, but I want to drive it some before launching into that adventure! I'm afraid I'll have everything taken apart and my pig buddies will be enjoying my home state!
After possible PP, then may add a 2F/H41/split case, PS and @RUSH55 suggestions on ubolts. Got all those parts ready to go, but I want to drive it some before launching into that adventure! I'm afraid I'll have everything taken apart and my pig buddies will be enjoying my home state!
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Right, after the Party for sure. Give Dave a shout ( @lcwizard )
4PlusProducts | FJ40 | Suspension Parts | U-Bolt Flip Kit
The ultimate kit for U-bolt protection and ground clearance on spring under axle equipped 40 series Land Cruisers.
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I'm not a fan of the 3.70s. You're going to wind up putting an overdrive tranny in there anyhow (H55) and with 33" tires 4:11s sound a lot better. I started with FJ60 axles ( 3.70s ) and swapped them right out for 4:11s. I have a 5.3 Chevy with the H55 and run all over the USA getting to dirt roads with ease. Low RPMs way under 3,000 at highway speeds. I'd chuck that 3 speed real quick.
- Thread starter
- #70
Thanks Ron for your thoughts. I'm actually planning on a 2F/4 speed in this 55, so 1:1 4th gear. I do have a GM NV4500 that I was planning to put behind a 5.3L in my other 55. So, with 33" tires and a 4 speed, does that change your opinion on 3.70 vs. 4.11s? Running 4.11s with 33s should put me at 3000 rpms at around 65-70 mph but with 3.70s I believe I'd be around 75 mph. I'd prefer to cruise on the highway between 70-75 mph and below 3000 rpms.
No, that's up to you and how you like to cruise. I'm a slow guy, so I don't worry about top speed. I wouldn't spend money on a gear swap until everything else is done and you live with the 4:11s for awhile.
- Thread starter
- #72
In the tie rod end pit if despair! I thought to myself, leave that last one alone. All the others had to be cut out, why bother with the one that is the most difficult to get to, especially when PS is in the future. Why don’t we listen to that inner voice?
Now it looks like I need to remove the whole assembly just to get to that last end!
Now it looks like I need to remove the whole assembly just to get to that last end!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
You try 
heat??
heat??
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I’d try everything I could think of first before removing the center arm just to remove that broken TRE.
C-clamp with a socket and a propane torch.
BFH.
Repeat.
C-clamp with a socket and a propane torch.
BFH.
Repeat.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Weld a nut to the top 
. Oh and i never ever listen to the Voices in my Head! 
No, No, No! BAD. 
. Oh and i never ever listen to the Voices in my Head! No, No, No! BAD.
- Thread starter
- #76
Out! That was terrible. Had to drill, use steel plate , pitman arm puller and 19mm socket for underneath. Finally gave.
- Thread starter
- #78
I had to cut it down to fit in the pitman arm puller. Then opening for puller was too big, so had to engineer a solution. It was a pain.
That sucks. Doing a front disc conversion on my FJ55 as well. I tried that same tool, but it wasn't properly sized for the TRE, returned it to Oriley. I wasn't keen on going the BFH route. I bought this style (presses on the castle nut and between the arm and bottom of the TRE), worked very well. If you need to replace TRE's again on another of your rigs, you're more than welcome to borrow it.
- Thread starter
- #80
Pics of your work @MudDauber ?
