A Guide To Installing Hard Top Windows (1 Viewer)

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First of all I wanted to thank Potato Launcher for being a HUGE help w/ this install. He came all the way from Amarillo (about 6 hours away) to help me with the install. He said he'd be more than happy to help me out as long as I shared the info with the rest of the MUD community by creating a How-To for everyone. He brought his tools and knowledge and really helped me out. I've never installed glass before and he was a big help in telling me which WS i needed to install glass in my 1970 hardtop.

This was the original thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/433765-1970-hardtop-glass-w-s-side-panels.html

I recently restored my hardtop for my 1970 40. Toyota no longer makes the WS for the sides and aftermarket is expensive. After looking around and getting good suggestions from Potato Launcher, I decided to go with StanPro AS-1179 two piece WS as well as the StanPro AS-937 locking strip. The product numbers AS1179 and AS937 are an industry standard number. So even if you don't order the StanPro brand you can still ask for the AS1179 and AS937 and it will have the same dimensions. I called a local auto glass shop and bought a 50' roll of the AS1179 and AS937 for about $115 plus tax. After the install, I used about 30-35' of WS, so a little over half. I also bought a cheapo locking strip tool, but found that it was a waste of money and having the better installation tool like Potato Launcher brought made the install much easier.

As far as tools, you will need:
  • Hook Tool
  • White polystick (Windshield Bone)
  • Good set of cutters
  • Locking Strip install tool
  • Spray bottle w/ soapy water
  • Rag
Here are a shot of the tools that you will need:

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This image shows the dimensions of the WS and locking strip:
weatherstrip.jpg



Now again, I was using this on my 1970 hardtop for all 5 windows (2 side rectangular windows, 2 quarter round windows, and 1 rear hatch window). From what I understand you can use this up to 1975 tops when they went to the vent windows.

Now for the install.

You first want to measure the width of the window (using the passenger side window as the example). You want to find the mid point of the window so that your WS will line up perfectly centered. If the opening of the window is 29" you divide that in half, so 14.5" is your mid point and where you will first install the WS.
IMG_7530.jpg


Here is the profile of the WS used:
IMG_7531.jpg


First, make sure you are working in a warm enviroment. You want to make sure the WS is pliable and not cold and stiff. Start laying your WS (groove for the locking strip faces out) on the channel of you window. You want to make sure it is seated firmly into the window channel. The WS at corner radius's need to be pushed deeply into corners so that the WS is seated properly.
IMG_7532.jpg


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Continue working the WS around the window channel making sure it is seated into the groove on the WS.
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Once you get it laid around the entire window, you are going to want to overlap you WS by about 3/8". It is CRITICAL that you make a square cut when you cut you WS, otherwise your seam where both ends meet will not look right.

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Once you cut it make sure the WS is seated and the corners and pushed in as far as they will go. Place both ends pieces together and this will give you enough material around the perimeter of the window once you start seating your glass.

IMG_7539.jpg



cont.
 
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Now take your spray bottle w/ soapy water and spray down the WS. Make sure you get inside the channel where the glass will sit. This creates a nice slippery surface that helps the glass "slide" into place.

Pick a corner to start with, we choose the bottom left corner (closest to the rear). Place the glass into the channel of the WS.

IMG_7541.jpg


Then lift the glass up and place it into the channel towards the front, just in the lip of the WS. The push the glass down into the horizontal channel along the bottom. The squirt bottle is your friend, use it!

IMG_7543.jpg


Here is where the windshield bone comes into play. Without this tool, you run the risk of poking holes into your WS if you use something like a screwdriver. Slowly work the lip of the WS to get it to slide over the top of the glass. This took a while and really requires you to alternate sides while continually putting downward pressure on the glass keeping in the bottom channel.

IMG_7544.jpg


Keep spraying the soapy water

IMG_7552.jpg


You have to work the glass into the channel of the WS slowly by using the windshield bone. The last corner is the hardest. This requires you to "smack" the window a little bit to get it to sit inside the channel. Again, plenty of soapy water.

IMG_7546.jpg


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It may help to have someone inside the cruiser to push out on the WS to allow it to "roll" forward. This helps the outter channel open up and lay open and makes it easier to seat the glass into the channel.

Once you've got the glass seated, you're half way there.

IMG_7550.jpg


cont.
 
Joined
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Time to install the locking strip.

You spray the locking strip channel and the locking strip itself with plenty of soapy water. This makes a really big difference here having plenty of soapy water on the channel and strip.

IMG_7553.jpg


IMG_7555.jpg


The locking strip is oriented into the installation tool like so:

IMG_7554.jpg


You start installing the locking strip where you first installed your WS, at midpoint. You push the installation tool into the WS with the tool perpendicular to the WS. With downward pressure you push the end of the install tool through the channel while decreasing your angle to probably around 20*. This opens up the channel and allows the locking strip to be seated.

IMG_7556.jpg


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You'll want to use your free hand to hold the locking strip in front of the direction the install tool is traveling. This helps keep the strip feeding and also keeps it from twisting. Again, lots of soapy water.

Just keep feeding the strip and follow the channel along the WS.

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Once you make it around to where you started, you will need to cut the locking strip. Again, VERY IMPORTANT to cut the lockin strip square and not angled. If you do cut it square, the two ends will not seat properly next to each other and will not look good. You will want to cut this again about 3/8" - 1/2" longer to overlap.

IMG_7562.jpg


Get your hook tool and push the end of the locking strip into the end of the channel. It may be necessary to cut the end of the locking strip some more to get it to seat properly, but don't cut off too much. Once you have the ends seated next to each other, you can use your hook tool to fix any spots of the locking strip that may have not seated properly during the install of the locking strip.

IMG_7563.jpg


IMG_7564.jpg


Again, soapy water helps here.

And voila, you've installed a window! Now you just have 4 more to go!!! All the other windows are the exact same, including the small quarter round windows. The quarter rounds actually seated faster than the rear hatch and 2 side windows. One thing we did do different on the quarter rounds was we measured our halfway point vertically vs. horizontally because we thought the WS wouldn't have a tendency to bludge out due to being on the "apex of the radius" :D. It would sit more flat going up the window, which it did once it was installed.

I hope this helps anyone that may be thinking about installing windows thereselves. Total install time was right at 3 hours for 5 windows. I saved myself a nice chunk of change on istallation charges as well as buying aftermarket WS from one of the landcruiser shops. And again, I wouldn't have been able to do this without the help of Potato Launcher, thanks a bunch man!!!

:cheers:

Nick
 
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Nick, now that you are an expert come do mine :)

Actually, what I would like to know is a source to purchase the windshield bone and lock strip installer tool.
 

Duke

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wonderful instruction post. Thank you for taking the time to document and share. Much appreciated.
 
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Joined
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Thank you for the information on the tools. Now all I need to do is see if I can make all the rust repairs in my hard top. If I can't do that then no point in thinking about the windows :)
 
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post

bookmarked for the not too distant future:cheers:
I muddled my way through my w/s change and it all went well but I admit it was a bit of a bugger by myself

Excellent pics
part numbers and prices
technical drawing

What else could we ask for?

All that's left is for you to show up to do it for us:lol::lol:
 

thecrazygreek

Lost Shaker of salt...
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Will the WS mentioned work with the Amby door windows? It should right?

Also, I found another source for the WS and locking piece for half the price.
I'll provide a link when I get home.
 
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I believe you must use an offset style gasket for later model ambulance doors. The glass is cut a little bigger and wont fit with an over/under type gasket. I will look into this when I get off work. Shouldnt be an issue though.
 
Joined
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Will the WS mentioned work with the Amby door windows? It should right?

Also, I found another source for the WS and locking piece for half the price.
I'll provide a link when I get home.

One thing that Potato Launcher warned be about was buying inferior WS. It may be cheaper, but it tends to be very stiff making it difficult to install properly. With that said, if you have a line on a good source I'm interested to see what the price savings would be.

nick
 
Joined
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Will the WS mentioned work with the Amby door windows? It should right?

Also, I found another source for the WS and locking piece for half the price.
I'll provide a link when I get home.

Do you have a cross section photo of the later model w/s? If you have that I'm sure I can find a suitable substitute.
Like Nick said be wary of cheap gasket. They look similar but the material is very different and tends to tear during install.
 
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I'm not 100% sure but I think the later model hardtop and rear doors require an offset w/s like this from CRLaurence. Compare the size of the stock glass to the size of the opening in the doors and side glass openings. If there is not at least a 3/16" gap between glass all the way around the AS-1179 style gasket will not work. You can have a glass cut that will fit with the AS-1179 gasket but that will defeat you quest for cutting costs. Good luck.
Casey
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