Build A 60 guy’s first 40, lichen & rust - 1969

[60 40]

Looking good and those running lights are really well priced for what you get. I'm never sure what to expect when I have to buy OEM stuff sometimes It's way less than I think it's going to be and then others it's just silly expensive.

Something really satisfying about replacing lighting and how the bling contrasts with a weathered vehicle.

 

[MDH33]

You might have interference with the old style oil filter and the 2 barrel upgrade. They are a lot wider than a 1 barrel. I know you were considering the dual master cylinder upgrade as well. Replacing the oil filter with the downward angled more modern replaceable filter might be necessary. I posted a pic in that othe MC thread for reference.

Mark A. @65swb45 sells nice repros of both the throttle cable bracket and return spring bracket you'll need for that early 2 barrel.

 

[CruiserTrash]

You might have interference with the old style oil filter and the 2 barrel upgrade. They are a lot wider than a 1 barrel. I know you were considering the dual master cylinder upgrade as well. Replacing the oil filter with the downward angled more modern replaceable filter might be necessary. I posted a pic in that othe MC thread for reference.

Mark A. @65swb45 sells nice repros of both the throttle cable bracket and return spring bracket you'll need for that early 2 barrel.

Thanks for the tips. In that other thread I think I did identify that the oil filter housing & dual circuit MC would be a problem. I hadn’t thought about the carb though. I’m hoping a spacer will do the trick. Worst case I’ll go to the bracket for a modern filter, but I’d like to keep this early style one if possible.

@Pighead In your photo it looks like the holes are different sizes. I hate I’m talking about is the threads in the carb. I haven’t found anything that fits in there yet.

 

[Pighead]

I hate I’m talking about is the threads in the carb. I haven’t found anything that fits in there yet.

The banjo goes to the fuel return line and comes out of the top of the carb, fuel inlet goes through a little adapter into the side of the carb, looks like m10 fine in the carb...
This is a 10/'73 carb

 

[CruiserTrash]

The banjo goes to the fuel return line and comes out of the top of the carb, fuel inlet goes through a little adapter into the side of the carb, looks like m10 fine in the carb...
This is a 10/'73 carb

View attachment 4069639

View attachment 4069640

View attachment 4069641

Ah ok, that makes a lot more sense. I’m coming from the 60 world, where the fuel pump does the “fuel return” work and there’s only one line to the carb. So on the earlier carbs there are two lines between the pump and the carb! Thanks for the photo.

 

[Pighead]

So on the earlier carbs there are two lines between the pump and the carb!

Almost. One line from fuel pump to carb, return line goes straight back to the tank. You can use a later fuel pump, with the return built in, if you don't want to run a return from the carb. You can forget about the return line entirely, it seems, many people do.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Almost. One line from fuel pump to carb, return line goes straight back to the tank. You can use a later fuel pump, with the return built in, if you don't want to run a return from the carb. You can forget about the return line entirely, it seems, many people do.

Good info, thanks. I’ll have to go inspect my engine bay tomorrow - kind of cold out today. Is there a hardline stub somewhere that the carb return attaches to? Or is that a continuous hardline from carb to tank?

 

[Pighead]

Is there a hardline stub somewhere that the carb return attaches to? Or is that a continuous hardline from carb to tank?

The return hardline from the carb pretty much follows the feed line down to the fuel pump area where a soft line takes it back to the tank, but this is on my 55. 40s probably different.

 

[MDH33]

On my '69 it only has the single fuel line, no return. Instead of the return, there's a plug in the top that has a filter screen in it. The connection to the carb is like pinhead showed. Adapter with an acorn crush fitting instead of a banjo.

 

[CruiserTrash]

On my '69 it only has the single fuel line, no return. Instead of the return, there's a plug in the top that has a filter screen in it. The connection to the carb is like pinhead showed. Adapter with an acorn crush fitting instead of a banjo.

View attachment 4069861

Mine has the plug nut in the top too. I should take it out and see if it has the filter screen in there.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Long time no update! I've bought and received almost all the wire I need to carry on with the harness build. I cannot find green wire with an orange stripe, however. One company called Sherco lists it on their website - I placed an order and then nothing for weeks. I finally reached out and got the response of "yeah the green/orange you want is on backorder so we haven't shipped your entire order. We have no idea when we can get that." So they're holding all of the wire I ordered, including other color combos, with no ETA. If I can find G/O wire elsewhere, I'll have Sherco refund me for that and ship what they have. I should note that I'm not trying to buy a 500-1000' roll.

Anybody have any leads? I'm looking for 14awg TXL or GXL.

 

[sadovnik]

Long time no update! I've bought and received almost all the wire I need to carry on with the harness build. I cannot find green wire with an orange stripe, however. One company called Sherco lists it on their website - I placed an order and then nothing for weeks. I finally reached out and got the response of "yeah the green/orange you want is on backorder so we haven't shipped your entire order. We have no idea when we can get that." So they're holding all of the wire I ordered, including other color combos, with no ETA. If I can find G/O wire elsewhere, I'll have Sherco refund me for that and ship what they have. I should note that I'm not trying to buy a 500-1000' roll.

Anybody have any leads? I'm looking for 14awg TXL or GXL.

Mark Baker AKA @Coolerman had it. I've bought that exact color from him in the past. On his fancy web page select "Wire by the foot"

 

[CruiserTrash]

Mark Baker AKA @Coolerman had it. I've bought that exact color from him in the past. On his fancy web page select "Wire by the foot"

View attachment 4160709

Derp, I should have thought of that. I’ve chatted with him about wire sourcing before but it’s been a while. He buys big rolls and then cuts off incremental amounts for us common folk. Anyway, thanks for the reminder!!

 

[CruiserTrash]

Started work on the new harness today by experimenting on a small section. It went pretty well.

Here's a question for the peanut gallery:

The old wires are very stiff with corrosion, so at the point where a big bundle goes through the firewall behind the gauge cluster, I just cut it. I tried fishing the engine bay portion of the harness through that hole, but with all the sheet metal behind the gauge cluster it was nearly impossible - it's really tight quarters and it's 10 or 12 wires. My hands aren't huge and I still couldn't really get them back in there very well. Snip snip was the solution for removal. Since I'm building an entirely new harness, I have a choice: install a multipin connector (or connectors) back there to make installation and serviceability easier, or do like Toyota did & run continuous wire, then suffer through trying to stuff the big bundle out through the firewall. OEM style multipin connectors are readily available in a variety of types.

*Note that the fat alternator-to-ammeter cables run through there, and I would run those continuously - I would tend not to trust a connector for that purpose and current load.

What would y'all do? Has anybody put connectors in that spot?

 

[CruiserTrash]

This truck came with an aftermarket push button for starting and no ignition cylinder, and I'm trying to rectify that in the new harness. I have an old cylinder on hand with the key code stamped in it and a really cool original key that works. The wire colors on the back are a direct match to the ~1969 wiring diagram and what I have in the existing harness so I'll use this one.

Question 2: Can I still get keys cut at a dealership based on the code like I can for a 60? Or is this style dead to Toyota and I need to use a locksmith? The existing key is cool, but it's got a small crack just starting.

 

[Unimogguy]

I don’t believe the Toyota dealers still have the TR blanks for the early 40 locks. But give them a ring and let us know here.

I know they still sell the 6XXX series of locks tho or at least they did ~2yrs ago when I got a set. But I’m not aware if they have blanks for the 6XXX series? As my matching set of 6XXX keys were already cut for the locks.

I’d go to a local locksmith and get a key cut from the link/info on post #44 of this thread and save that rare OEM TR key! Houdini lock lube is what the 3rd generation locksmith back home advised me to use when I was having them help me figure out the info in that thread. They also were able to help me figure out what substitutes blanks we could use for the LV locks.

Due to recent events locally I’d also make sure you have some other form of security as well!

 

[CruiserTrash]

I don’t believe the Toyota dealers still have the TR blanks for the early 40 locks. But give them a ring and let us know here.

I know they still sell the 6XXX series of locks tho or at least they did ~2yrs ago when I got a set. But I’m not aware if they have blanks for the 6XXX series? As my matching set of 6XXX keys were already cut for the locks.

I’d go to a local locksmith and get a key cut from the link/info on post #44 of this thread and save that rare OEM TR key! Houdini lock lube is what the 3rd generation locksmith back home advised me to use when I was having them help me figure out the info in that thread. They also were able to help me figure out what substitutes blanks we could use for the LV locks.

Due to recent events locally I’d also make sure you have some other form of security as well!

Thanks for all the advice! I have a pretty good relationship with my local Toyota parts counter guy, so I'll dig in with him, but plan on using a locksmith if he comes back with a negative. You're saying this TR key is rare???

When you're talking about 6xxx locks, you mean the key code? This cylinder has a 1xxx number and my 60 has a 4xxx number. If 6xxx fits either truck and is available new, I'm not opposed to getting all new lock cylinders for one or both vehicles. Some of these old tumblers are worn out and you could probably use a bobby pin to operate them.

I'll pick up some Houdini. The 60 rear hatch lock needs lubed up anyway and it will be good to have on hand.

And yeah, after that 62 was stolen from about 10 blocks from me, I have my guard up. The 60 now has some additional security measures, and it's probably best that the 40 does too. Being very basic vehicles, they'll always be easier to steal than a modern car, but I'd like to alleviate that a little bit. If you have any tips, I'm all ears (here or via PM).

 

[peesalot]

You may be able to order blanks with the oem Toyota stamping online, a locksmith may have them. I know a guy in Oregon and a few local Locksmiths that have OLD stock, worth a shot, I'll ask.

 

[peesalot]

Lube tends to gum up the works, powder graphite is better.

 

[Unimogguy]

Thanks for all the advice! I have a pretty good relationship with my local Toyota parts counter guy, so I'll dig in with him, but plan on using a locksmith if he comes back with a negative. You're saying this TR key is rare???

When you're talking about 6xxx locks, you mean the key code? This cylinder has a 1xxx number and my 60 has a 4xxx number. If 6xxx fits either truck and is available new, I'm not opposed to getting all new lock cylinders for one or both vehicles. Some of these old tumblers are worn out and you could probably use a bobby pin to operate them.

I'll pick up some Houdini. The 60 rear hatch lock needs lubed up anyway and it will be good to have on hand.

And yeah, after that 62 was stolen from about 10 blocks from me, I have my guard up. The 60 now has some additional security measures, and it's probably best that the 40 does too. Being very basic vehicles, they'll always be easier to steal than a modern car, but I'd like to alleviate that a little bit. If you have any tips, I'm all ears (here or via PM).

Yes the TR key is rare as most have been lost over the years and blanks aren’t available unless you get lucky and found some from someone who’s been hoarding them. Last time I saw some a couple years ago ToyotaMatt had them but I think he sold out?!?! Buyer beware.

Correct I’m talking about the 6XXX key coded lock. They were done sequentially in series. So the 1XXX series lock is early. My ‘63 FJ45 has a 1XXX series lock and my ‘67 FJ-45 has a 2000 series ignition and a later model 5000 series door lock (doors are from a 70’s FJ-40).

What does the key for the 60 series look like? Similar to the 40? Or is it a longer key? My parent’s ‘86 Camry key was a longer double sided key. I don’t know squat about them other than 60’s had round lights and 62’s have rectangles.

As you know…kill either electricity or fuel or both. I’ll PM a couple ideas. Then back it up with a reliable way to find it should it go missing.