Build A 60 guy’s first 40, lichen & rust - 1969

[Unimogguy]

Lube tends to gum up the works, powder graphite is better.

This is a longstanding debate…it just depends on who you ask.

Houdini is a modern PTFE formula that goes on wet to clean out gunk and dries completely to a non-stick film thus preventing corrosion better than graphite. It’s not like WD-40 which I agree should absolutely not be used.

The golden rule is to never use graphite and a lube of any kind as it solidifies the graphite.

 

[peesalot]

I use a similar type of dry lube, not in locks tho. Pops had a lockshop for 40 years, I have seen, been inside of, & rebuilt all types of cylinders, cores, different metals, cast, machined, automotive, safe deposit, safes, some unidentified, and I can say without question the answer to that debate. Depending on what has worn or failed many times lube, graphite, etc just isnt gonna recover function. The older pot metal Toyota lock cyl's seem like there is a high lead contant in the metalurgy which leads to better slip n slide but also leads to wear from repetative use. Used to be steel keys on brass or pot metal cyl's, like the old double sided Schlage, they had all steel & brass internals tho. Some of the EU car makers used steel but not very many.
OP, send me the key code, if Pops has the blanks he can cut it. We used to do all the car dealers so he has the cut manuf. depths, profiles, & spacing data, mostly they are on master keys and you just cut each pin separately, then if that isnt available we go to the manual set machine. This is all old stuff and not applicable to anything mid 90's and newer as far as key code stuff.

 

[Pighead]

What does the key for the 60 series look like? Similar to the 40? Or is it a longer key?

I bet it looks sorta like a 55 series key(s). One for the doors, one for ignition switch...

 

[CruiserTrash]

Yes the TR key is rare as most have been lost over the years and blanks aren’t available unless you get lucky and found some from someone who’s been hoarding them. Last time I saw some a couple years ago ToyotaMatt had them but I think he sold out?!?! Buyer beware.

Correct I’m talking about the 6XXX key coded lock. They were done sequentially in series. So the 1XXX series lock is early. My ‘63 FJ45 has a 1XXX series lock and my ‘67 FJ-45 has a 2000 series ignition and a later model 5000 series door lock (doors are from a 70’s FJ-40).

What does the key for the 60 series look like? Similar to the 40? Or is it a longer key? My parent’s ‘86 Camry key was a longer double sided key. I don’t know squat about them other than 60’s had round lights and 62’s have rectangles.

As you know…kill either electricity or fuel or both. I’ll PM a couple ideas. Then back it up with a reliable way to find it should it go missing.

Damn, this cylinder must be early, it's 13xx, with original key. Interestingly the cylinder has Acc (turn to the left), Off in the center, and the On and Start to the right. It even has a bezel with the labels on it. My 69 - according to both wiring diagrams I've found and the harness I took out, has no provision for anything connected to ACC. Three wires go to the cylinder: 12V hot, switched on, and momentary switch Start. There's a 4-pin connector on the back with an empty hole, and the harness doesn't have a wire that ever ran to it. Like I said the diagrams confirm this. Did earlier and later trucks have Acc functionality, but that was dropping for some period of time? Even though it's not original I could incorporate Accessory functionality into the harness as I build it. For example I could have it turn everything on except power to the coil so I don't burn it out.

My 4xxx lock code 60 key is longer and double sided versus the short single sided key for the 13xx cylinder.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I bet it looks sorta like a 55 series key(s). One for the doors, one for ignition switch...

View attachment 4196567

View attachment 4196568

Nope, It's single sided. I'll get a better photo when I get home.

@peesalot I'll PM you. Thanks.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@peesalot @Pighead Photos below

Profile looks like #2 below

Key looks like it's start to tear here

 

[peesalot]

Brass key is well worn, number 2 cut is too deep, the brass pins inside are prolly all worn too like a cam lobe. You can get new pins at hardware, misc assort, take cyl apart, dress the key with file so ridge where pin rides is flat , not rounded, remove as little as possible. Put key in, set new pins = or taller than cyl, file too tall pins to flush, lightly graphite,, reinstall, check for free rotation. Use a follower so when you pull cyl out the spring loaded upper pins dont scatter, once cyl is out gently pull follower dropping 1 pin and spring at a time, after you have your new pins install in reverse using follower first then push cyl in with upper pins on cyl body not riding on the pin line, then rotate to locked after inserted. Dont pull on key to remove until you have locked cyl into housing or you start over. Check housing for wear where cyl spins while apart, that keeps the cyl and housing lined up so pins operate, if the cyl to housing is sloppy it may be dead, same goes for keyway in cyl, if its a sloppy fit to key you may need a new cyl.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Brass key is well worn, number 2 cut is too deep, the brass pins inside are prolly all worn too like a cam lobe. You can get new pins at hardware, misc assort, take cyl apart, dress the key with file so ridge where pin rides is flat , not rounded, remove as little as possible. Put key in, set new pins = or taller than cyl, file too tall pins to flush, lightly graphite,, reinstall, check for free rotation. Use a follower so when you pull cyl out the spring loaded upper pins dont scatter, once cyl is out gently pull follower dropping 1 pin and spring at a time, after you have your new pins install in reverse using follower first then push cyl in with upper pins on cyl body not riding on the pin line, then rotate to locked after inserted. Dont pull on key to remove until you have locked cyl into housing or you start over. Check housing for wear where cyl spins while apart, that keeps the cyl and housing lined up so pins operate, if the cyl to housing is sloppy it may be dead, same goes for keyway in cyl, if its a sloppy fit to key you may need a new cyl.

You still in the business? I'm a pretty handy guy but that sounds like very technical work where lots of experience would be beneficial - and I have exactly zero experience.

 

[peesalot]

Nope, pops sold the outfit some time ago, kept all the old stuff tho. It's really not hard at all, the real interesting part is figuring out how they retained the cyl in the housing and how to release it, all manner of designs across the different auto manuf. Some of the Toyota ones, like the double sided keys Pig posted, required drilling in a specific spot, then depress tab under hole and pull cyl out with key in cyl, the key has to be in in any cyl you are removing.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Nope, pops sold the outfit some time ago, kept all the old stuff tho. It's really not hard at all, the real interesting part is figuring out how they retained the cyl in the housing and how to release it, all manner of designs across the different auto manuf. Some of the Toyota ones, like the double sided keys Pig posted, required drilling in a specific spot, then depress tab under hole and pull cyl out with key in cyl, the key has to be in in any cyl you are removing.

And here I am still confused on how to get the pins & tumblers cylinder out. I need to reread your previous post maybe another dozen times haha!

 

[peesalot]

There may be a small hole/slot on housing body , when the cyl is turned either to acc or on, cant recall, the lock tab is able to be depressed with wire and cyl slides out the front, bezel must be removed first. Reemeber to use a follower so as not to lose all the top pinsm I like sharpies for that or round wood dowel if you have. A key that worn will most likely have well worn key guide grooves in the cyl which is terminal.