Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps

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WrongsideDaily said:
The dude that owns this tried to call Slee about the trans mount when I told him that it wasn’t just slot the cross member like he read it was and they told him NOPE 🤣
Not a big deal, I made some plates, boxed the center portion of the oem member, and ran some DOM tubing to spread the load. It honestly took me way more time than I wanted to spend due to tools. I got a bunch of pics on the other phone, it’s currently just tacked and was waiting on more gas to finish out and I just moved on.
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That looks really similar to what a lot guys have done. Toyonly swaps does a rear crosss member too.

The guy I bought all my swap stuff from sourced the slee pan, must be he got the last one maybe.

just been doing lots of little boring stuff got the motor mounts all cleaned up painted and mocked in so I could torque the rubber to the new parts.
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What did everyone do with the original charcoal canister lines? I still have the line coming from the tank and the one going down to the frame, but I don't have any place to connect the purge line that used to go to the intake manifold of the 1FZ. Would kind of like to just replace with a GM down underneath like some have done.
 
1MAC said:
What did everyone do with the original charcoal canister lines? I still have the line coming from the tank and the one going down to the frame, but I don't have any place to connect the purge line that used to go to the intake manifold of the 1FZ. Would kind of like to just replace with a GM down underneath like some have done.
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I just used the AC Delco canister in the stock location and attached the purge valve to that, as well as the tank pressure sensor to the line coming from the tank.

Putting a GM canister down by the frame rails works as well.

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I'm running a Gen V L83 swap. I put a hose barb in the original purge solenoid location on the front of the intake manifold as vacuum source for the brake booster. Guess I could probably just put a tee in that line and a check valve on the purge hose. Thanks!
 
mrsleeve said:
That looks really similar to what a lot guys have done. Toyonly swaps does a rear crosss member too.

The guy I bought all my swap stuff from sourced the slee pan, must be he got the last one maybe.

just been doing lots of little boring stuff got the motor mounts all cleaned up painted and mocked in so I could torque the rubber to the new parts.
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Wait til you get to the fun part; grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't!
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Just outta curiousity, why did you not go with a Chevy?
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WrongsideDaily said:
Wait til you get to the fun part; grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't!
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Just outta curiousity, why did you not go with a Chevy? View attachment 4062312View attachment 4062313
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long and short of it, a lot of the hard stuff had been aquired and was for sale semi local for a very good price. This 68% compliled kit and budget kinda made the choice. I am not after a 498hp fast thing, (If I want that I will go get a C5 or C6 ) I just want a good reliable eaiser to source parts for (2uz is eaiser than 1fz not a L33) 80 that will get out its own way and will get where I want it to go.

I had orginally been thinking a decenlty built 5.3 and 8hp70 swap, I will have this compleated and driving for about the cost of adapters and wireing harness going this route.
 
mrsleeve said:
long and short of it, a lot of the hard stuff had been aquired and was for sale semi local for a very good price. This 68% compliled kit and budget kinda made the choice. I am not after a 498hp fast thing, (If I want that I will go get a C5 or C6 ) I just want a good reliable eaiser to source parts for (2uz is eaiser than 1fz not a L33) 80 that will get out its own way and will get where I want it to go.

I had orginally been thinking a decenlty built 5.3 and 8hp70 swap, I will have this compleated and driving for about the cost of adapters and wireing harness going this route.
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You were shooting for the moon with the 8hp idea. I know someone that just finished it up and got it dialed in on another platform that was already built, he works on his own stuff, and it ran him 12k just on the trans swap and controller. But he went through it and the car makes four digits at the tire.

Either way, make sure you throw a fresh plug and coil on #7 as I’m fairly certain even with the cable bracket on the booster it’s still gonna be an issue.
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tmxmotorsports said:
Why the sheet metal work?
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Transfer case actuator interferes with the body. No other option. Another thing is the 1fz isn’t centered in the frame rails and actually sits offset to the driver side a bit, so everything shifts over. Next is modifying the shifter linkage to now clear the transfer case, then figure out where the shifter for the t case needs to go. It *looks* like you could get away with a 100 series extension housing and t case shifter with some floor trimming, but I’d rather just make an extension bracket.
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Oil filter! You gon’ have to relocate that sumbitch!
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Pictured here is a 3uz with front bypass pipe that deletes the oil ‘cooler’. You’ll need to sort out the block side fitting that needs to be plugged. Or you could find a hose that connects them and have a random, unnecessary, hose to maintain. I’ll post that here if I ever finish this. I’m about to push it out and pretend it doesn’t exist for a while.
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Early FJ80 tcase shift lever looks to fit perfect into to stock location and bolts directly to the a343 out of a 100 series.

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As far as the actuator clearance, with the slee skid plate and some other test fits, I am hoping to get away with the BFH “dimple method”. Vs cut and patch. Time will tell.

Thanks for the heads up on #7 I didn’t notice that on my initial test fitting, but that said my 2uz has gotten new plugs, timing kit, formed coolant little hoses, serpentine pulleys and idlers, and some other stuff I am forgetting lol
 
mrsleeve said:
Early FJ80 tcase shift lever looks to fit perfect into to stock location and bolts directly to the a343 out of a 100 series.

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As far as the actuator clearance, with the slee skid plate and some other test fits, I am hoping to get away with the BFH “dimple method”. Vs cut and patch. Time will tell.

Thanks for the heads up on #7 I didn’t notice that on my initial test fitting, but that said my 2uz has gotten new plugs, timing kit, formed coolant little hoses, serpentine pulleys and idlers, and some other stuff I am forgetting lol
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That’s the same as 100 series! Good to know the 440 tail mates the same as an a340.

I’m not sure if it’s the angle, but that looks WAYYYY off. More like it’s centered to the trans shifter hole, and not the t case shifter area. Can you get a more square pic?
 
Believe me, I ain’t scared to use the hammer. Fitting an r154 in a whole bunch of Cressidas made me a pro with the BFH massage happy ending, but I’m gonna go out on a limb and say that ain’t happening. I also don’t see Slee sending vehicles out the door for what they charge with the ol’ smackaroo method. I told the guy who owns this one there’s absolutely a reason Slee isn’t taking people’s money for this swap, and I’d bet it’s because it’s packaging and the effort involved when you could just do a 4.8 Chevy, which in stock form blows the UZ outta the water and packages better.

What I can tell you is that the further forward the engine goes, the less clearance there is for the t case. For reference, I can fit my fingers behind the bank two cylinder head. I have this thing as FAR back as possible, because I REALLY do not like shortening the front driveshaft as much as you have to.Theres no simple pinion adjustment for the front like you can do with the rear by adding adjustable links. I also really dislike adding length to the rear driveshaft because if you actually party, that thing is gonna kiss ledges. Even worse for non viscous folks.
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And here’s some views of the actuator clearance. Once I yank this, I’ll finish this side of the tunnel work to make it all blend. That’s the cool thing about metal; work it til it works!
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The problem you’re gonna run into IF you can get some clearance by hammer is in installing… you’re either gonna have to stab altogether at an angle and then come up, or severely angle the trans down, install, then come up with the tail end. And then there’s almost no reasonable serviceability for the t case if it needs to come out for any reason.

The extra room over the bare minimum needed when installed was made 200% for installation ease.
 
WrongsideDaily said:
Believe me, I ain’t scared to use the hammer. Fitting an r154 in a whole bunch of Cressidas made me a pro with the BFH massage happy ending, but I’m gonna go out on a limb and say that ain’t happening. I also don’t see Slee sending vehicles out the door for what they charge with the ol’ smackaroo method. I told the guy who owns this one there’s absolutely a reason Slee isn’t taking people’s money for this swap, and I’d bet it’s because it’s packaging and the effort involved when you could just do a 4.8 Chevy, which in stock form blows the UZ outta the water and packages better.

What I can tell you is that the further forward the engine goes, the less clearance there is for the t case. For reference, I can fit my fingers behind the bank two cylinder head. I have this thing as FAR back as possible, because I REALLY do not like shortening the front driveshaft as much as you have to.Theres no simple pinion adjustment for the front like you can do with the rear by adding adjustable links. I also really dislike adding length to the rear driveshaft because if you actually party, that thing is gonna kiss ledges. Even worse for non viscous folks.
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And here’s some views of the actuator clearance. Once I yank this, I’ll finish this side of the tunnel work to make it all blend. That’s the cool thing about metal; work it til it works!
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The problem you’re gonna run into IF you can get some clearance by hammer is in installing… you’re either gonna have to stab altogether at an angle and then come up, or severely angle the trans down, install, then come up with the tail end. And then there’s almost no reasonable serviceability for the t case if it needs to come out for any reason.

The extra room over the bare minimum needed when installed was made 200% for installation ease.
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I really appreciate all the heads up and inside real time installation tips.

My set up sits in pretty much the same location. For bank 2 maybe a very small amount further back and a touch further drivers side. But essentially the same spot. If I have to build clearance in so be it.

I am aware of the drive line angles, I am planing on having to go DC shafts on both front and rear as it’s just part of it all. I am hoping I can make some install progress starting early next week as my harness and everything should be back then
 
Shifter lines up pretty dam close, it’s shifted a little bit to the right but is close enough to not have to mess with making an adapter plate.

Basically same location as your set up, the Hundy oil filter seems to fit just fine with the cooler still attached, it’s a little tight, so will have to stick with YZZD3 and change the oil at 3-5k like normal.

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