87 hj60 frame swap with 89 fj62 frame help plz

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Dieselmahnic

Dieselmahnic

10 Year
Joined
Aug 5, 2015
Threads
27
Messages
206
Location
Phoenix
Hello out there!
I have a canadian 1987 hj60 with h55

Sadly frame has rusted beyond the point of no return.
Currently have a super nice treated 89 fj62 frame to swap under her and will be starting the project in the next few days. THIS IS MY FIRST TIME DOING FRAME SWAP SO PLEASE BEAR WITH ME

I have searched high and low and read almost everything i can out there on performing the swap but still have some areas of uncertainty... Sadly there isnt a sticky on how this can be done with photos to the T. So hopefully i can help the next guy!

#1 powersteering pump mounting- is there a way to make the original work? It seems that one is angled on the frame and the other is not. please post photos or site where i may find details or a conversion!

#2 frame side engine mounts- i know i need to cut off the mounts and move them over and i have seen alot of different ways of doing it but having a hard time finding the exact dimensions of them. I know the factory frame that i am pulling will have these dimensions but would appreciate having them so i can make my marks for the new one before pulling it apart. I reallllllllllly dont want to screw this up !!!!!

Im sure there will be a #3-??? as this begins but anyones help is appreciated!

Also any recomendations (from anyone that has attempted this already) for parts that i can expect to break...so i can buy in advance :)
 
Don't try to do this in your driveway unless you have the time and a good insurance (personal and public liability).
I was contemplating a driveway swap but elected to do it in a garage with a 2 post lift. It was easy and safe this way.
Well worth it. Took 6 days of wrenching. Body came off easy and fast (first day).
Lowered it onto dollies and moved it to the side to get it out of the way.
BTW, the engine + transmission are REAL heavy. Used the lift instead of messing around with a cherry picker.
Stored it temporarily in the bed of a pickup that we drove under the lift. Lowered it on to a couple of used tires for cushioning.

Some hints:
0) Would not be easy doing it solo. For example, getting the body mounts off/on is a two person job.
1) I hope you scored the body mounts from the FJ62. Having a spare set and the bolts helped me out a lot.
2) The FJ62 will have auto-tranny mounts that are not in the right place for your H55F.
3) I don't know what you are saying about the power steering pump (this is on the engine).
Do you mean the lines? I changed mine. Easy since the rad was out. And the return leaked.
Or the power steering box? (if the latter, I think these are identical. I had both a HJ60 and FJ62 and don't recall any differences.).
4) Chances are that this crazy fuel vapour loop on your diesel is rotted out. You can bend a replacement (I did).
5) Have a spare set of spring bushings ... in case you have to burn out the ones you have when you move the springs over.
It is all these odds and ends that can really stretch out the time putting things back together.
And explode the budget.
 
Mich really appreciate the insight! Have insurance just hope I don't need it!

Ive read alot about the swap and seen several how to threads so i feel confidant that i can do most of it, sadly i dont have access to a lift or know anywhere that would allow me to take over a lift for a week without huge gobs of $$ :bang: So this will be a job for my 2 car garage. I have some experience, done an engine swap in the garage on my ol faithful 87 toyota supra inline 6 with a r154 so i cant see it being much worse (simillar engine size, diesel = less wires, and this one will have no body attached) hopefully im not opening a can of worms with this one....

0)-have friends available on weekends for the heavy work, and have cherry picker and wheel dollies to move frames around

1)-I have not sourced the body mounts, read about using boat rollers and was going to give that a shot before dropping yet another $100+

2)-I have an older 3 piece crossmember that has been powercoated. I will just need to cut out the old auto mounts from the frame and weld in the new ones for the h55

3)-Didnt mean to say pump was refeering to the steering box mounting on the frame. it seems like one is angled in a diamond shape and the other is not angled and is a square shape, could be a mistake on my part but something looks different..... i can take photos if it helps!

4)-Can you shoot me a photo, part number, or link to this fuel vapor loop? I was planning on purchasing new viton fuel lines so i can probably find that while im at it!

5)-As far as bushings go I just placed an order with metaltech4x4 for a complete OME kit including bushings etc. very excited to finally lift her :bounce:
 
Well the scary step is lifting the body up to clear all the bits. Although surprisingly light compared to the drivetrain, it is easily heavy enough to crush you in a very bad way should it come down on you. So if you pull out the engine and transmission FIRST, you don't need to lift it much at all. That would make it a lot safer. I was going to try using the jacks that are used to lift a camper from the bed of a pickup. Found a set
on Kijiji but decided to go for the two post lift. Get a decent set or two of axle stands. And ones that have enough lift to reach the frame and not tip over. Having done a few spring changes with short stands ...

As to the engine + transmission + transfer case weight? It was actually scary heavy to me. The 2H is heavier than the 2F. And I can't see your Supra engine being anything more than the 2F. And the transmission + transfer is a big hunk of metal. I'd never try it with a basic Harbour Freight/Princess Auto cherry picker. Its not just the lift. It is the "move it around" part without tipping over. Hope your floor is smooth.

I made a complete procedural list before starting. Helped me think it through. Never used it after day 1. The value to me was the process
in creating the procedural list. In any case, I attach below for your reading pleasure.

As to the vapour loop ... good luck sourcing that. I'd use the copper/nickel brake line stuff. Get two of the longest lengths from your local auto parts store. The copper/nickel is way easier to bend. I didn't use it and I would if I had known how many bends I needed to do.
It stays with the body (clipped in place). Crawl under your truck to check it out. Maybe yours is fine :)

I swapped out my fuel tank along the way. My old one had a pinhole leak (fixed with a blob of JB weld) and the fuel sender was fragged.
Lots of sediment. The newer one was very nice.

You should be able to get some good used body mounts for not a lot of money ... ask the guy who sourced your frame.
There are a mess of bolts, 3 or 4 different lengths. Different body mount diameters as well. A bit confusing to sort out.

----- lists and procedure I used ------

New parts list:
  1. Flex hoses for brakes and clutch
    1. Brake:
      1. Rear center (9") - BH36978 too short (350mm is spec) [Toyota 96940-33805J]
      2. Front center (12”) - BH1227 [Toyota 96940-33505]
    2. Clutch:
      1. Flex hose Toyota PN 31481A
  2. Power steering LP hard line 9.5mm (3/8”) [bend from stock as needed]
  3. Power steering HP hard and flex line
  4. Antifreeze for Toyota diesel. Use HOAT. (15.4 litres = 4 jugs at 2x concentrate).
  5. Brake fluid DOT3/4 (got some DOT3)
  6. Dextron ATF for power steering (got it)
  7. Frame paint black (got 1 quart)
  8. Primer for bare metal (got 1 can)
  9. Marker paint yellow (drive train alignment, power steering alignment)
  10. Degreasers, cleaners, rags, hand cleaner
  11. Antiseize for frame fixings
  12. New carriage bolts for bumper (SS at CTire, imperial though)
  13. Spring bushing spares
  14. Ubolts (better to change so people say)
  15. Grease

Tools and stuff:
  1. Container for used diesel fuel, used antifreeze (use buckets and red fuel container)
  2. Plugs for diesel lines. Plugs for brake lines.
  3. Wire for tying things off and up out of the way.
  4. Boxes and buckets for parts as they come off.
  5. Standard tools
  6. Flare nut wrenches for brake lines.
  7. Flaring tool.
  8. Vacuum bleeder
  9. Brass hammer
  10. Angle grinder with wire wheels, cut off wheels
  11. Grease gun and grease (for shackles etc.)
  12. Spare body mounts and muffler mounts (where did I put these?)
  13. Safety goggles

Notes on frame:
  1. Muffler and exhaust mounts on frame (not body). Point on rear of transmission bracket.
  2. Brake lines run along frame rail RHS; manifold attached to frame by engine RHS.
  3. Power steering lines run along frame cross member at front
  4. Fuel separator mounts to frame on RHS, mid point.
  5. Fuel lines run along frame rail on RHS
  6. Cross member with transmission mount will be reused from existing frame. Save bolts.

A: Prepare for body off
  1. LC onto lift but don’t lift yet
  2. Notes from others who have done this:
    1. Some recommend removing the seats. Perhaps to access body mount bolts. Or to use seat belt locations to lift body with straps.
    2. Remove the entire front clip. Most do but not all. I think we should just remove the radiator since it has to come out anyways.
    3. Remove the front fenders (not well supported). Most don’t. Lets not either.
  3. Electrics:
    1. Remove batteries (1/2” for clamps, 12mm for bolts, 10mm for oddball clamp). Option to remove trays.
    2. Remove ground cable to engine, ground cable to frame. Leave ground cable to body (by battery).
    3. Remove starter high current cable from battery at solenoid and signal line from ignition.
    4. Disconnect the EDIC wiring at bulkhead (take pictures)
    5. Disconnect gauge instrument lines (oil pressure, temperature)
  4. Coolant:
    1. Drain coolant (plug on rad). Save it in bucket. Need lid (dog around).
    2. Disconnect radiator hoses (top and bottom).
    3. Remove radiator (bottom shroud gets in way of lifting engine; covers PS lines as well)
    4. Disconnect heater hoses (3) from bulkhead at engine. Leave rear heater hoses on body.
  5. Engine air control:
    1. Disconnect two lines from vacuum pump on engine LHS line to receiver on fender
    2. Disconnect air filter intake hose to throttle assembly.
    3. Disconnect throttle cable at throttle body.
  6. Drive train control:
    1. Disconnect hand brake cable in cab (nut on end of cable, pull out from below. See diagram below). Tie off to axle or remove completely.
    2. Disconnect steering column at steering box (access through fender well. Splined shaft connector. Remove bolt completely as it sits in groove. See diagram below).
    3. Disconnect main transmission shift lever (remove boot, cover with cloth, press down and turn CCW).
  7. Bumpers and hitch
    1. Remove bumpers since they need to be reused. Lots of bolts. Suspect most will need a torch.
    2. Remove trailer hitch bar on rear since needs to be reused.
  8. Lift the truck to access from below
  9. Disconnect from below:
    1. Disconnect front, rear brake lines at manifold/proportioning valve mounted on frame RHS engine bay (alternatively, disconnect manifold from frame and tie to body).
    2. Disconnect hard lines from manifold to frame.
    3. Disconnect clutch hydraulic line at flex on bulkhead RHS engine bay (uses a clip apparently).
    4. Disconnect signal line to fuel separator (filter light)
    5. Disconnect signal line from transfer to 4WD actuator
    6. Disconnect backup switch on transmission
    7. Disconnect speedometer cable at transmission (rear, large pliers CCW)
    8. Drain fuel from tank. Disconnect fuel line at tank from frame (mounted to body).
    9. Drop tank (to be replaced). Two straps holding it up to body.
    10. Disconnect 4WD actuator vacuum shift lines
    11. Disconnect transfer box lever (pivot bolt on transfer box, pin with cotter on control lever)
    12. Remove exhaust system (disconnect at mid point flange, engine manifold)
  10. Check for stragglers
  11. Wrench or cut off old body mounts at frame.
  12. Inspect body locations and plan for repairs.

B: Body off and chassis roll out
  1. LC in hoist area.
  2. Lift body from rockers.
  3. Alternate from door openings at roof with straps and boards.
  4. Lift high to clear engine and front clip
  5. Roll out chassis with complete drive train. Cover with tarp.
  6. Lower body and get it out of the way on dollies.

C: Frame swap (plan A using 2 post hoist to manage engine and transmission)
  1. Roll old frame w/engine into lift area. Goal to lift out engine and transmission as a single unit
  2. Disconnect and remove:
    1. Steering rods and box
      1. Disconnect damper from frame.
      2. Disconnect steering box from frame
      3. If leave box attached to pitman arm we will have to remove lines
      4. If we detach from pitman we may be able to keep lines intact
      5. Note that lines are leaking and need replacement anyways
    2. Power steering lines
      1. Remove low pressure return line and clips on frame to reservoir from box
      2. Remove high pressure line at pump and box on frame only if necessary
    3. Driveshafts (front and rear) remove. Mark position on flanges.
    4. Sway bars on axles at frame disconnect
      1. Front and rear
    5. Shock absorbers at frame disconnect
      1. Front and rear
    6. Hand brake cable clips to frame (if any)
    7. Disconnect flex diesel fuel line from frame to lift pump on engine
    8. Disconnect brake fluid flex lines to centre front and centre rear axles
  3. Motor and transmission mounts
    1. Remove upper mount nut on motor mounts both sides
    2. Remove fixings to rear transmission mount (need details)
  4. Lift and move engine and transmission and transfer as single unit (approx. 1200 lb.)
  5. Roll out old frame with axles still attached
  6. Prepare springs on new frame for axles by opening shackle. Same for old frame.
    1. Check spring pack for broken leaves and pin.
    2. Consider moving the grease able shackles from old frame and springs to new.
    3. Axle swap using jacks on frames (reuse U bolts)
  7. Remove and re-install
    1. Steering box and mount (RHD to LHD frame mount for box)
    2. Transmission cross member
  8. Option to do before or after engine and transmission re-install
    1. Install anti-sway bars front and rear
    2. Install shock absorbers front and rear
    3. Install spare tire cross member
    4. Install brake hydraulic hard lines to flex
    5. Install diesel fuel separator on frame rail
  9. Roll in new frame with axles in place to lift area
    1. Drop and install engine and transmission assembly as a unit.
  10. Reattach
    1. Driveshafts (front and rear)
    2. Power steering lines (HP and LP)
    3. Diesel fuel lines from frame to pump.
    4. Exhaust system complete (check mounts to transmission and frame)
  11. Roll out chassis to make space for body on lift.

D: Body replacement
  1. Get body back on lift
  2. Fix body mount locations if needed (will need welding in) and place mounts on frame
  3. Install newer fuel tank (could do AFTER body is attached to frame)
  4. Roll in chassis
  5. Lower body and connect all the mounts
  6. Reconnect all the bits (see disconnect list)
 
BTW, you can leave the old automatic transmission mounts on the frame. They don't get in the way of anything.
Mine are still there (was on the new/used frame I got). That said removing them would make things more tidy down there.
 
Mich said:
Well the scary step is lifting the body up to clear all the bits. Although surprisingly light compared to the drivetrain, it is easily heavy enough to crush you in a very bad way should it come down on you. So if you pull out the engine and transmission FIRST, you don't need to lift it much at all. That would make it a lot safer. I was going to try using the jacks that are used to lift a camper from the bed of a pickup. Found a set
on Kijiji but decided to go for the two post lift. Get a decent set or two of axle stands. And ones that have enough lift to reach the frame and not tip over. Having done a few spring changes with short stands ...

As to the engine + transmission + transfer case weight? It was actually scary heavy to me. The 2H is heavier than the 2F. And I can't see your Supra engine being anything more than the 2F. And the transmission + transfer is a big hunk of metal. I'd never try it with a basic Harbour Freight/Princess Auto cherry picker. Its not just the lift. It is the "move it around" part without tipping over. Hope your floor is smooth.

I made a complete procedural list before starting. Helped me think it through. Never used it after day 1. The value to me was the process
in creating the procedural list. In any case, I attach below for your reading pleasure.

As to the vapour loop ... good luck sourcing that. I'd use the copper/nickel brake line stuff. Get two of the longest lengths from your local auto parts store. The copper/nickel is way easier to bend. I didn't use it and I would if I had known how many bends I needed to do.
It stays with the body (clipped in place). Crawl under your truck to check it out. Maybe yours is fine :)

I swapped out my fuel tank along the way. My old one had a pinhole leak (fixed with a blob of JB weld) and the fuel sender was fragged.
Lots of sediment. The newer one was very nice.

You should be able to get some good used body mounts for not a lot of money ... ask the guy who sourced your frame.
There are a mess of bolts, 3 or 4 different lengths. Different body mount diameters as well. A bit confusing to sort out.

----- lists and procedure I used ------

New parts list:
  1. Flex hoses for brakes and clutch
    1. Brake:
      1. Rear center (9") - BH36978 too short (350mm is spec) [Toyota 96940-33805J]
      2. Front center (12”) - BH1227 [Toyota 96940-33505]
    2. Clutch:
      1. Flex hose Toyota PN 31481A
  2. Power steering LP hard line 9.5mm (3/8”) [bend from stock as needed]
  3. Power steering HP hard and flex line
  4. Antifreeze for Toyota diesel. Use HOAT. (15.4 litres = 4 jugs at 2x concentrate).
  5. Brake fluid DOT3/4 (got some DOT3)
  6. Dextron ATF for power steering (got it)
  7. Frame paint black (got 1 quart)
  8. Primer for bare metal (got 1 can)
  9. Marker paint yellow (drive train alignment, power steering alignment)
  10. Degreasers, cleaners, rags, hand cleaner
  11. Antiseize for frame fixings
  12. New carriage bolts for bumper (SS at CTire, imperial though)
  13. Spring bushing spares
  14. Ubolts (better to change so people say)
  15. Grease

Tools and stuff:
  1. Container for used diesel fuel, used antifreeze (use buckets and red fuel container)
  2. Plugs for diesel lines. Plugs for brake lines.
  3. Wire for tying things off and up out of the way.
  4. Boxes and buckets for parts as they come off.
  5. Standard tools
  6. Flare nut wrenches for brake lines.
  7. Flaring tool.
  8. Vacuum bleeder
  9. Brass hammer
  10. Angle grinder with wire wheels, cut off wheels
  11. Grease gun and grease (for shackles etc.)
  12. Spare body mounts and muffler mounts (where did I put these?)
  13. Safety goggles

Notes on frame:
  1. Muffler and exhaust mounts on frame (not body). Point on rear of transmission bracket.
  2. Brake lines run along frame rail RHS; manifold attached to frame by engine RHS.
  3. Power steering lines run along frame cross member at front
  4. Fuel separator mounts to frame on RHS, mid point.
  5. Fuel lines run along frame rail on RHS
  6. Cross member with transmission mount will be reused from existing frame. Save bolts.

A: Prepare for body off
  1. LC onto lift but don’t lift yet
  2. Notes from others who have done this:
    1. Some recommend removing the seats. Perhaps to access body mount bolts. Or to use seat belt locations to lift body with straps.
    2. Remove the entire front clip. Most do but not all. I think we should just remove the radiator since it has to come out anyways.
    3. Remove the front fenders (not well supported). Most don’t. Lets not either.
  3. Electrics:
    1. Remove batteries (1/2” for clamps, 12mm for bolts, 10mm for oddball clamp). Option to remove trays.
    2. Remove ground cable to engine, ground cable to frame. Leave ground cable to body (by battery).
    3. Remove starter high current cable from battery at solenoid and signal line from ignition.
    4. Disconnect the EDIC wiring at bulkhead (take pictures)
    5. Disconnect gauge instrument lines (oil pressure, temperature)
  4. Coolant:
    1. Drain coolant (plug on rad). Save it in bucket. Need lid (dog around).
    2. Disconnect radiator hoses (top and bottom).
    3. Remove radiator (bottom shroud gets in way of lifting engine; covers PS lines as well)
    4. Disconnect heater hoses (3) from bulkhead at engine. Leave rear heater hoses on body.
  5. Engine air control:
    1. Disconnect two lines from vacuum pump on engine LHS line to receiver on fender
    2. Disconnect air filter intake hose to throttle assembly.
    3. Disconnect throttle cable at throttle body.
  6. Drive train control:
    1. Disconnect hand brake cable in cab (nut on end of cable, pull out from below. See diagram below). Tie off to axle or remove completely.
    2. Disconnect steering column at steering box (access through fender well. Splined shaft connector. Remove bolt completely as it sits in groove. See diagram below).
    3. Disconnect main transmission shift lever (remove boot, cover with cloth, press down and turn CCW).
  7. Bumpers and hitch
    1. Remove bumpers since they need to be reused. Lots of bolts. Suspect most will need a torch.
    2. Remove trailer hitch bar on rear since needs to be reused.
  8. Lift the truck to access from below
  9. Disconnect from below:
    1. Disconnect front, rear brake lines at manifold/proportioning valve mounted on frame RHS engine bay (alternatively, disconnect manifold from frame and tie to body).
    2. Disconnect hard lines from manifold to frame.
    3. Disconnect clutch hydraulic line at flex on bulkhead RHS engine bay (uses a clip apparently).
    4. Disconnect signal line to fuel separator (filter light)
    5. Disconnect signal line from transfer to 4WD actuator
    6. Disconnect backup switch on transmission
    7. Disconnect speedometer cable at transmission (rear, large pliers CCW)
    8. Drain fuel from tank. Disconnect fuel line at tank from frame (mounted to body).
    9. Drop tank (to be replaced). Two straps holding it up to body.
    10. Disconnect 4WD actuator vacuum shift lines
    11. Disconnect transfer box lever (pivot bolt on transfer box, pin with cotter on control lever)
    12. Remove exhaust system (disconnect at mid point flange, engine manifold)
  10. Check for stragglers
  11. Wrench or cut off old body mounts at frame.
  12. Inspect body locations and plan for repairs.

B: Body off and chassis roll out
  1. LC in hoist area.
  2. Lift body from rockers.
  3. Alternate from door openings at roof with straps and boards.
  4. Lift high to clear engine and front clip
  5. Roll out chassis with complete drive train. Cover with tarp.
  6. Lower body and get it out of the way on dollies.

C: Frame swap (plan A using 2 post hoist to manage engine and transmission)
  1. Roll old frame w/engine into lift area. Goal to lift out engine and transmission as a single unit
  2. Disconnect and remove:
    1. Steering rods and box
      1. Disconnect damper from frame.
      2. Disconnect steering box from frame
      3. If leave box attached to pitman arm we will have to remove lines
      4. If we detach from pitman we may be able to keep lines intact
      5. Note that lines are leaking and need replacement anyways
    2. Power steering lines
      1. Remove low pressure return line and clips on frame to reservoir from box
      2. Remove high pressure line at pump and box on frame only if necessary
    3. Driveshafts (front and rear) remove. Mark position on flanges.
    4. Sway bars on axles at frame disconnect
      1. Front and rear
    5. Shock absorbers at frame disconnect
      1. Front and rear
    6. Hand brake cable clips to frame (if any)
    7. Disconnect flex diesel fuel line from frame to lift pump on engine
    8. Disconnect brake fluid flex lines to centre front and centre rear axles
  3. Motor and transmission mounts
    1. Remove upper mount nut on motor mounts both sides
    2. Remove fixings to rear transmission mount (need details)
  4. Lift and move engine and transmission and transfer as single unit (approx. 1200 lb.)
  5. Roll out old frame with axles still attached
  6. Prepare springs on new frame for axles by opening shackle. Same for old frame.
    1. Check spring pack for broken leaves and pin.
    2. Consider moving the grease able shackles from old frame and springs to new.
    3. Axle swap using jacks on frames (reuse U bolts)
  7. Remove and re-install
    1. Steering box and mount (RHD to LHD frame mount for box)
    2. Transmission cross member
  8. Option to do before or after engine and transmission re-install
    1. Install anti-sway bars front and rear
    2. Install shock absorbers front and rear
    3. Install spare tire cross member
    4. Install brake hydraulic hard lines to flex
    5. Install diesel fuel separator on frame rail
  9. Roll in new frame with axles in place to lift area
    1. Drop and install engine and transmission assembly as a unit.
  10. Reattach
    1. Driveshafts (front and rear)
    2. Power steering lines (HP and LP)
    3. Diesel fuel lines from frame to pump.
    4. Exhaust system complete (check mounts to transmission and frame)
  11. Roll out chassis to make space for body on lift.

D: Body replacement
  1. Get body back on lift
  2. Fix body mount locations if needed (will need welding in) and place mounts on frame
  3. Install newer fuel tank (could do AFTER body is attached to frame)
  4. Roll in chassis
  5. Lower body and connect all the mounts
  6. Reconnect all the bits (see disconnect list)
Click to expand...


Wow. Impressive.

:clap:
 
Now thats what I call a response! Thank you mich! hopefully someone makes that a sticky! SUPER HELPFUL THANK YOU :clap:

also are you sure about the old auto mounts? i havnt measured yet but they arent too far off where im sure the new mounts will go... could u post a photo? worst case potential scrape guard mount???:hmm:
 
Very impressive list. Looks complete to me.

As to the power steering gearbox, there are two types of 60 series gearboxes. Early and late. They have different bolt patterns, but are otherwise the same. Easiest thing for you to do is to find a PS gearbox that will fit your frame (from an FJ-62 or later 60). Then sell the one off your HJ-60.

Dan
 
I don't think there's a good way to make it work. You'd have to weld up the bolt holes, then drill new ones.

It's not hard to find a reman'd steering gearbox.

1)Find a used one that will work (late FJ-60 or FJ-62)
2)Send it to PSC or West Texas Offroad for rebuild

That said, are you looking for a truly remanufactured gearbox, or just a rebuilt one?

Dan
 
Well I've been in the habit of buying new parts as up to this point, I know it's always more but I'm planning to keep till the wheels break if u know what I mean. So I would prefer a new condition one if I do have to let the original go :/ I have a buddy on the Michigan Canada border that helps with the hard to finds so I guess I have to start the search unless you know someone??
 
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