80 series Slinky/ICON Long Travel Suspension officially coming to the U.S.A. (2 Viewers)

[GRIZZLY911]

LandCruiserPhil
TacoSupreme.
How come Phil’s truck has the same RPM at 100 only? Either the speedo is not accurate or re-gearing possibly.
But Tacosupreme is re-geared!
Either way thise are crazy speeds. I have a 96 with 35” tires. The best i have done is 95 mph in a slight down hill. When climbing up or slight uphill i struggle to keep up with traffic.
I still have stock gears. Maybe because my rig is heavy. I am pushing close to 7.5 K

 

[GRIZZLY911]

 

[nuclearlemon]

thx for the review, do you feel like there was a large benefit moving from linear springs to progressive springs? (with ome shocks)

Yes. That is the biggest advantage. The linear slee springs are a buckboard compared to progressives.

Rig is 35s and 4.88 years. Engine has been bored 1mm over. Speedo reads 10% faster so I was just over 90mph. Put a slight grade in front off me and watch me lose 20mph though.

Next is to pull the rear whiteline bar and see if I can get my rear wheels back on ground when I flex

 

[1973Guppie]

@nuclearlemon your new avatar, your welcome,

 

[dockbox]

Slinky Long Travel Individual Parts and Kits are in stock and more on the way!

https://www.endlesshorizonoutfitter...icle_gear/4x-overland-usa/slinky-long-travel/

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Slinky Long Travel Individual Parts and Kits are in stock and more on the way!

Slinky Long Travel

Sweet!!!! So my slinky rear 75mm heavy springs should be on the way...

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

LandCruiserPhil
TacoSupreme.
How come Phil’s truck has the same RPM at 100 only? Either the speedo is not accurate or re-gearing possibly.
But Tacosupreme is re-geared!
Either way thise are crazy speeds. I have a 96 with 35” tires. The best i have done is 95 mph in a slight down hill. When climbing up or slight uphill i struggle to keep up with traffic.
I still have stock gears. Maybe because my rig is heavy. I am pushing close to 7.5 K

My speedo has been recalibrated and is accurate.

 

[tacosupreme]

My speedo has been recalibrated and is accurate.

Mine is not very accurate. It's weird, it's right on at about 60mph, any other speed it drifts further away from true. She'll pull legit triple digits even on the GPS however.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

View attachment 1601370

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Next is to pull the rear whiteline bar and see if I can get my rear wheels back on ground when I flex

I was afraid this was going to happen with the Whiteline bar. I have avoided flex testing because I have been loving the Whiteline on the tarmac. Any ideas on rear swaybar discounts?

 

[HDJdreams]

For years (before this product hit the market) I have been thinking about spring loaded links that could be locked with a pin or something.

I have been too busy try to keep up with PM to prototype anything.

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

got the slinkies changed back on with the ome shocks. it's been a long time since i've been comfortable at speed, but i drove to moab with none of the rocking or concrete bucking that i was experiencing with the slinky shocks. i have not had time to adjust the suspension to match the lower height of the slinky (my pinion is pointed at an angle that makes me hope i don't toast the bearing) and the sway bar is half held on and it's still 100x better than with the slinky icon shocks. i am comparing the slinky springs to a very old (8 year old) slee 4" non progressive springs, both with and without the slinky shocks. supposedly, slee makes a progressive spring now. whether or not that's true and how they ride i can't comment, nor can i comment on any one else's progressive springs.

i can say that no way would i recommend the slinky stage one if you have a heavy rig (fat bastard is just over 7k). their stage one shocks can not handle the weight. say what you will about the ome shocks not working with slinky springs, they work a heck of a lot better than slinkys shocks. maybe i don't get the ideal performance out of the springs, but i get far better performance than i would if they were sitting in the corner of my garage pissing me off. i know adam loves his, but he also has stage 4. so does woody, so does justin. i respect them, but the salesmen get the best of the best to sell the product. those of us that have to pay get what we can afford.

if you have a heavy rig and are set on slinkys, either plunk down the cost of your car for stage 4, or find different shocks that can handle the weight.

View attachment 1600576

By the reaction of the vehicle mentioned here, would be interesting to check height and caster because anyone who has an understanding of shock absorbers will know a twin tube shock vs monotube will have far better control with bigger piston surface are and 10 x the gas pressure.

I am in town last half of Feb, would be interested to see why your truck reacted badly in your opinion to better control.

We normally recommend up to the vehicle GVM for stage 1, with 2.0s and if heavier than that then 2.5s are a better opotion on an overlanding rig.

Heavy for us here in Aus is more like 8000-9500lb.

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

I was afraid this was going to happen with the Whiteline bar. I have avoided flex testing because I have been loving the Whiteline on the tarmac. Any ideas on rear swaybar discounts?

The standard bush with longer links flexes well, Whiteline use their own bush in the arm which is smaller.

With our sway bars we do the longer link with tapered bushes on the top pivot for the pin type, the ball joint type on the bar brackets flex well.

We also do a 30mm longer rear bar that keeps the links vertical when lifted and the 11mm longer lower control arms are installed.

On our suspension ramp the HD sway bars on vs off makes around 2" of difference in the distance up the ramp on a fitted out truck.

 

[Box Rocket]

The standard bush with longer links flexes well, Whiteline use their own bush in the arm which is smaller.

With our sway bars we do the longer link with tapered bushes on the top pivot for the pin type, the ball joint type on the bar brackets flex well.

We also do a 30mm longer rear bar that keeps the links vertical when lifted and the 11mm longer lower control arms are installed.

On our suspension ramp the HD sway bars on vs off makes around 2" of difference in the distance up the ramp on a fitted out truck.

I gotta look into this. I’m halfway through a winter trip at the moment and just got some cell coverage b I’m becoming less and less ok with the factory rear swaybar. Been running the shocks at 8 setting and the ride, as usual, is excellent on the dirt roads. With my truck loaded and the tent on the roof it’s just leaning too much in fast corners. I know the truck can carry more speed in turns but I’m having to scrub speed to keep the bodyroll in check. We’ve been rallying pretty hard though. Getting me excited for SW adventure 2018!

 

[alia176]

Next is to pull the rear whiteline bar and see if I can get my rear wheels back on ground when I flex

I got my Whiteline rear sway bar and will be making up a set of HD sway bar end links as the modified/extended factory end links ain't gonna cut it. I think the oem end links may break apart with the thicker sway bar under extreme forces. I thought about making a set of QDs but may just use a 14mm wrench to remove the two nuts/bolts instead of using pins. Or, simply swap the nuts/bolts with a hitch pin before I leave for a trip and then return to nuts/bolts after returning home. I just don't wheel extreme stuff often enough to leave the pins in place on a permanent basis and I like the tightness that nuts/bolts offer at this important location.

Sorry for the slight hijack.

 

[jcardona1]

No, but even downhill with the wind at your back it takes three miles to get to the end of the speedo-(4.88's and 35's) [Edit: Just noticed the early 80's speedo is different from the later!]

That's insane. My experience in a 3 linked truck with about 6" of lift and 37s is like:

 

[nuclearlemon]

By the reaction of the vehicle mentioned here, would be interesting to check height and caster because anyone who has an understanding of shock absorbers will know a twin tube shock vs monotube will have far better control with bigger piston surface are and 10 x the gas pressure.

I am in town last half of Feb, would be interested to see why your truck reacted badly in your opinion to better control.

i'm running christos caster plates with oe bushings, never had it actually measured as it wasn't an issue with the slee springs. you're welcome to look at it. i should be around. hopefully i'll get time to adjust the suspension back down for the slinky springs. i turned it all back for the taller slee springs and haven't had time to adjust the suspension again (suspension is stock links with the slee weld in adjusters on the track bars and upper rear control arms).

We normally recommend up to the vehicle GVM for stage 1, with 2.0s and if heavier than that then 2.5s are a better opotion on an overlanding rig.

are the 2.5s available in the stage one kit, or do you have to buy the stage 4 kit? this was sold to me by someone that knows my rig (justin) and he said he sold me the "heavy" kit, which adam confirmed when i posted my shock part numbers. what is the difference in the stage one "medium" vs. stage one "heavy"? before going on it's "diet", my rig was well over 7k. not quite as heavy as treeroot's ptarmigan, but fat bastard wasn't far behind.

The standard bush with longer links flexes well, Whiteline use their own bush in the arm which is smaller.

that's a bummer to hear since i broke an oe sway bar bolt and kind of forgot about it in a hurry to get to moab for new years....a bushing didn't survive the trip, i was hoping to just order one bushing in with the new bolt and nut from toyota...guess i'll have to source something else.

That's insane. My experience in a 3 linked truck with about 6" of lift and 37s is like:

glad mine isn't like that. i don't know that i could give up going 80 on longer trips

 

[nuclearlemon]

I got my Whiteline rear sway bar and will be making up a set of HD sway bar end links as the modified/extended factory end links ain't gonna cut it. I think the oem end links may break apart with the thicker sway bar under extreme forces.

so far i've been lucky and the stock links have held up fine. i've got the style where the stud goes straight up, so without opening the hole and drilling out bushings, it would be a pain. the older ball stud style seems more robust, but i could be wrong, and it would just be welding in a stouter chunk of tubing, although the wings that go on each side of the sway bar are pretty chintzy too.

I thought about making a set of QDs but may just use a 14mm wrench to remove the two nuts/bolts instead of using pins. Or, simply swap the nuts/bolts with a hitch pin before I leave for a trip and then return to nuts/bolts after returning home. I just don't wheel extreme stuff often enough to leave the pins in place on a permanent basis and I like the tightness that nuts/bolts offer at this important location.

i haven't figured out a way the rear could be quick disconnect since it mounts to the axle not the frame unlike the front. you still have to remove it at the axle and store it somewhere

 

[Box Rocket]

are the 2.5s available in the stage one kit, or do you have to buy the stage 4 kit? this was sold to me by someone that knows my rig (justin) and he said he sold me the "heavy" kit, which adam confirmed when i posted my shock part numbers. what is the difference in the stage one "medium" vs. stage one "heavy"? before going on it's "diet", my rig was well over 7k. not quite as heavy as treeroot's ptarmigan, but fat bastard wasn't far behind.

The only differences with the Stage1 kit and the Stage4 kit are really just the shocks. So everything you have will work and if you have the Heavy springs now I wouldn't go to the Intermediates given the weight of your truck. I made the same change with my truck after running the Stage1 kit for a year. When I went to Stage4 last May I just upgraded to the Stage4 shocks with no other changes. This is all assuming that you have the correct accessory pieces like swaybar extensions, caster correction, panhard adjusters etc which I know you already have, but others reading this may not.

 

[alia176]

so far i've been lucky and the stock links have held up fine. i've got the style where the stud goes straight up, so without opening the hole and drilling out bushings, it would be a pain. the older ball stud style seems more robust, but i could be wrong, and it would just be welding in a stouter chunk of tubing, although the wings that go on each side of the sway bar are pretty chintzy too.


i haven't figured out a way the rear could be quick disconnect since it mounts to the axle not the frame unlike the front. you still have to remove it at the axle and store it somewhere

This is what I have now in the rear but I don't think it'll withstand the Whiteline bar. It looks way more beat up now. I used to pull the pin and tied the sway bar to the LCA if I recall correctly.

 

[nuclearlemon]

I used to pull the pin and tied the sway bar to the LCA if I recall correctly.

View attachment 1617973

did you just tie off to one side? seems like it wouldn't hold if you did it to both sides? i wish it was just reversed like the front