Builds 78 body off restore (cruiser #2) (4 Viewers)

[EWheeler]

This thing is going to be gorgeous when she is done. That color is stunning.

 

[Curtice]

Tomorrows the big day. Gonna fire up the engine. Or at least try…I’ll actually be amazed if it works. I’m so nervous lol.

Anyway, getting it ready with fluids tonight. Put the coolant in. Of course I found a small hose I forgot to connect and coolant leaked all over. Not a great sign for tomorrow haha. But got it all buttoned up and no coolant leaks now. Will see what happens when the pump is running.

Also put in some Toyota ATF / PS fluid. I don’t think it’s a good idea to run the PS pump dry.

Here is my plan for tomorrow on the whiteboard. Have a buddy coming to help me.

Send some good vibes my way that nothing goes horribly wrong.

 

[FloridaPhillip]

Tomorrows the big day. Gonna fire up the engine. Or at least try…I’ll actually be amazed if it works. I’m so nervous lol.

Anyway, getting it ready with fluids tonight. Put the coolant in. Of course I found a small hose I forgot to connect and coolant leaked all over. Not a great sign for tomorrow haha. But got it all buttoned up and no coolant leaks now. Will see what happens when the pump is running.

View attachment 2892964

Also put in some Toyota ATF / PS fluid. I don’t think it’s a good idea to run the PS pump dry.

Here is my plan for tomorrow on the whiteboard. Have a buddy coming to help me.

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Send some good vibes my way that nothing goes horribly wrong.

Going to video?

 

[Curtice]

I will when it works. Tried to start it up, but had a few problems. I have fuel leaking from both sides of the hard return line that goes around the back of the engine (3FE). Fuel is leaking from under the pulsation damper, and from the connection to the soft return line. On the end under the damper, I have a suspicion on what might be the problem...I think when I powder coated the hard line, I didn't cover off the ends, thus not getting a good seal. Here:

As for the other end, where it connects to the soft return line, this has me worried. I cannot get it any tighter since it is so hard to get in there and work...not enough leverage, and the tightening bolt is already not in great shape.

Gonna see what I can do today. Aside from those problems, I am not sure I am getting spark when I turn it over. I guess it was too much to expect everything to work beautifully on the first try.

 

[Andrew S]

Your pulsation damper/banjo bolt connection photo, looks to me like the upper crush washer is too small on the outer diameter to seal? The lower one looks to be quite a bit larger.

 

[Curtice]

Your pulsation damper/banjo bolt connection photo, looks to me like the upper crush washer is too small on the outer diameter to seal? The lower one looks to be quite a bit larger.

Thanks I agree, but I double checked that I had the right part number. And this photo I took before installing it shows the gasket is the correct pn, at least according to Toyodiy.

 

[Andrew S]

That's upper and lower crush washers still in the bags, in the order they get assembled to the damper? Any luck fixing the leak?

 

[Curtice]

OK...figured it out today. And @Andrew S - you are on point. That is the order I assembled the crush washers, but they are wrong. I refer to Toyodiy.com quite a bit for part numbers etc. and up until now, it has been great. But according to that site, the part number for the tabbed washer (23232-41081) is the lower washer. But it is actually upper washer. This makes sense since the gaps in the washer are needed to let the fuel flow through. I figured this out because based on how I had the washers, I could not figure out how the damper worked, since it seemed to block the flow of fuel.

Here is the underside of the damper and you can see the slots where the fuel goes.

Since I had the smaller non-tabbed washer there, it ended up blocking those slots. See here:

Unfortunately, that washer is jammed in there and impossible to get out, so I need to order a new damper and gaskets. It appears I am not the first person to have the problem, I found the below on another thread...one on the right is wrong, like mine was. One on the left is how it is supposed to be:

Anyway, so because of that, fuel was being stopped at the damper and not even going into the fuel rail. I assume this is why I was leaking so bad to, because there was all the pressure from the pump and nowhere for the fuel to go, since it was blocked. Also, this is why the engine wouldn't start (hopefully).

Maybe more explanation than needed, but hopefully will help someone else out in the future.

I've ordered a new damper and new gaskets. So while I am waiting for that to arrive, I discovered a coolant leak at the water pump gasket. Very frustrating since I just built the engine with a new gasket. I don't know why it is leaking...bolts are all torqued, etc. So I need to redo it, which will take a few days...not a fast/easy job to get to the water pump. I did the gasket dry last time, this time I plan to coat with FIPG. Hopefully I can have that all done by the time the damper arrives, and maybe give the engine another try to fire, in about a week.

All in all, I guess things could be worse...at least I know what is wrong.

 

[Curtice]

Some more minor setbacks. I apparently suck at gaskets. While taking things apart to get at the water pump, I noticed a slight leak out the bottom of the lower thermostat housing as well. So ended up taking that off as well, and ordering some new stuff to fix. So waiting on that stuff to arrive, then I can start reassembly. If there are any tips to prevent leaking this go round, i'm open to hear. Here it sits as of tonight:

I tried so hard to keep it clean. I let the coolant slowly drip all night last night into a bucket thinking that will help keep the mess down. But ended up being super messy anyway. Getting the water pump off was difficult. I had to remove all of the studs that hold it on, and I had to cut the lower coolant hose because I just couldn't get it off any other way.

 

[EWheeler]

Some more minor setbacks. I apparently suck at gaskets. While taking things apart to get at the water pump, I noticed a slight leak out the bottom of the lower thermostat housing as well. So ended up taking that off as well, and ordering some new stuff to fix. So waiting on that stuff to arrive, then I can start reassembly. If there are any tips to prevent leaking this go round, i'm open to hear. Here it sits as of tonight:

View attachment 2897353

I tried so hard to keep it clean. I let the coolant slowly drip all night last night into a bucket thinking that will help keep the mess down. But ended up being super messy anyway. Getting the water pump off was difficult. I had to remove all of the studs that hold it on, and I had to cut the lower coolant hose because I just couldn't get it off any other way.

What a bummer. You’ll get it licked and ready for some beautiful spring/summer cruising in 2022.

For future reference, this tool is super handy for hose removal. Cant afford not to have two of these in the toolbox!

Amazon product ASIN B0050SFZBG

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Having some phun for curtice

3FE Kustom reproduction radatior drain tube


He also gets professional sample first run 3F carb non USA valve cover

Decals SMACK swag



In his USPS overnight express mail parcel

 

[Curtice]

Awesome! Thanks @ToyotaMatt - fantastic to work with as always.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

​

thanks curtice that means alot coming from a a SOLID MUD Buddy ....

​

 

[77CruiserDog]

OK, so need to update. Been working on this quite a bit, but making slow (and sometimes backwards) progress. I'll try to give some more regular updates, post some pictures of the progress.

First off, tub, since that was the last discussion here. I purchased a 1/2 tub from Teseven, paid half down last year. If you haven't heard, they burned down last month. Too bad as they were good to work with and I felt bad, for them losing their business, but also for all the cruiser owners that lost their whole cruiser. Anyway, Teseven has promised a refund, which is good for me. The downside is I now need to figure out what to get, so back to square one. I'll most likely go for a Columbia made one from one of the vendors that does that. I just can't bring myself to pay the price Cool Cruisers wants. Outside possibility I'll go Aqualu, but don't think so. More to come on that.

Next, the frame. Oh what a nightmare i've had here. I bought the rear frame gussets from Cruiser Solutions. Turned out great. Also picked up some new front bumper extensions.

Started by cleaning real well. Here is my son washing it:

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I wanted to powder coat, but decided I needed to start saving money where I could. After researching POR15 and all related products, I decided to go with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, covered by their 2K Ceramic Chassis paint. So I got the frame all prepped and sprayed the Rust Encapsulator. This was my first time using a paint gun, and it went on well and turned out great.

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So, so far so good. I followed Eastwood instructions and proceeded to apply the 2K chassis paint. All seemed to be good, until a couple of days later where I was still waiting for the paint to seem ready (well beyond the time it should). But the paint never adhered. I could just scrape it off with my fingernail. The rust encapsulator was rock solid, but not the paint. I called Eastwood and they told me I must have not used enough activator. So, I spent the next week stripping it back down with a combination of wire wheel and chemicals, so I could repaint. Since I was pretty upset and lacking in confidence in my painting skills, I had a friend who paints cars for a living come help. So we painted it together. I waited a few days, and same problem. . He said the paint sucks and we did everything right. I called Eastwood back, they didn't know, but at least gave me all my money back. At this point, I'd had it. So I took it in to get blasted and powder coated. Just got it back last week and it looks great. Should have done this in the first place and not wasted more than a month.

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So that is where I am at on the frame. Excited to be able to start bolting things onto it!!

Who did your powder coating, it looks great!! I've been using a place in Monroe and they do nice work but it would be smart for me to have a second option in the area.

 

[Curtice]

@77CruiserDog - I went to Seattle Powder Coat. They have a couple locations in the area. One in Ballard and the other in south Seattle.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Thanks. Been following yours too. I’d wager you are further than me tho. I haven’t started any work on the body/tub.

But I did spend some money! Got some goodies back from the plating shop.

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Also powder coated my valve cover.

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I know I'm a bit late to the party but what plater are you using?

 

[Curtice]

I went to Queen City Plating in Mukilteo.

 

[77CruiserDog]

I went to Queen City Plating in Mukilteo.

Thanks man!! I'd love to see your rig one of these days. I'll supply the beer.

 

[White Stripe]

You can jack up the back of the truck 12" to help coolant drain from the block, then let it down, clean the front, and install the water pump. Toyota has a special fipg for coolant, it's expensive. Usually they're black fipg coated on the wp gasket will seal it.

 

[Curtice]

@White Stripe - thanks. I do already have some of the black FIPG that says for water pumps. So coat both sides of the gasket with the FIPG, then install? Same thing for the tstat housing gaskets?

I had a friend recommend using "the Right Stuff" from Permatex. Not sure if that is the same thing or not as the FIPG. I have both, just want to make sure I do it right cause if it leaks again, things will get thrown.