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Yes and let it dry for an hour before adding coolant. 24hrs is better.
Build 78 body off restore (cruiser #2)
- Thread starter Curtice
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- Thread starter
- #402
Thanks. I did that with the transfer case gaskets using the orange FIPG and appears to have worked well.
Okay, just finished this build thread, looking forward to future posts too as we're so close to the first start/drive! Nice work Curtice, this is a very well done build!! One last question, that exhaust is awesome... who did that for you? I have some work for them.
- Thread starter
- #404
@77CruiserDog - local small shop near where I live. They are in Maple Valley. Guy who runs it is very nice and did a great job, but veeeery slow...he had my cruiser for a couple of months. Luckily I was able to just chip away at the body panels and paint while he had the main body. He is also building me a custom bumper at some point. Automotive Repair | Washington | Throttleoutfab.com - https://www.throttleoutfab.com/
I try to support the smaller shops, so like I said I can refer you there, but know it might take a while
I try to support the smaller shops, so like I said I can refer you there, but know it might take a while
- Thread starter
- #405
Ok, some progress this weekend, but not as far as I wanted.
Firstly, got a new water pump and gaskets. Ready with black FIPG.
As recommended, coated both sides of a the gasket with FIPG. Getting the pump back on was a huge pain. It would have been not bad if I had removed the alternator and AC, but was trying to do it without going that far. Before I did the FIPG, I did a test run to make sure I could get it on, and seemed to work ok. This is getting the hoses in the right spot, wriggling the pump in between all the brackets, etc. but when I went to actually do it, I struggled with it for over 15 minutes. I was getting worried the FIPG would start to dry, but I think I got it.
Anyway, rented a pressure tester from Autozone. Didn’t quite have the right parts to do it without the radiator, but I think I made it work. I wanted to test before putting everything back together.
Seemed to be good, so put everything back on. Not to the radiator yet, but here’s where I am now
One minor setback, putting on the Dakota digital water temp sensor and this happened. I wasn’t even torquing hard, but maybe I’m stronger than I think. So had to order a new one.
Lastly, got new fuel damper, and went ahead and got a new pressure line as well since I was worried messed mine up with all the fiddling.
Got that installed. Once I get the radiator back on and the temp sensor replaced, I can try to start again.
Firstly, got a new water pump and gaskets. Ready with black FIPG.
As recommended, coated both sides of a the gasket with FIPG. Getting the pump back on was a huge pain. It would have been not bad if I had removed the alternator and AC, but was trying to do it without going that far. Before I did the FIPG, I did a test run to make sure I could get it on, and seemed to work ok. This is getting the hoses in the right spot, wriggling the pump in between all the brackets, etc. but when I went to actually do it, I struggled with it for over 15 minutes. I was getting worried the FIPG would start to dry, but I think I got it.
Anyway, rented a pressure tester from Autozone. Didn’t quite have the right parts to do it without the radiator, but I think I made it work. I wanted to test before putting everything back together.
Seemed to be good, so put everything back on. Not to the radiator yet, but here’s where I am now
One minor setback, putting on the Dakota digital water temp sensor and this happened. I wasn’t even torquing hard, but maybe I’m stronger than I think. So had to order a new one.
Lastly, got new fuel damper, and went ahead and got a new pressure line as well since I was worried messed mine up with all the fiddling.
Got that installed. Once I get the radiator back on and the temp sensor replaced, I can try to start again.
- Thread starter
- #406
OK! So good day. Got everything put back together and got the new water temp sensor to replace the broken one installed. Gave it a go this morning and it pretty much fired right up. Took about 20 seconds for the fuel to get there, but then got going. Here is a vid of the very initial startup (sorry for the sideways shot):
That video ended quickly cause my camera man noticed another small fuel leak. This time, it was leaking out of the adapter I had put into the cold start injector line. Tightened it up, but still was a very very slow leak. Still, decided was ok to leave during the engine break in procedure. Another video of the engine running:
That video ended quickly cause my camera man noticed another small fuel leak. This time, it was leaking out of the adapter I had put into the cold start injector line. Tightened it up, but still was a very very slow leak. Still, decided was ok to leave during the engine break in procedure. Another video of the engine running:
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- Thread starter
- #407
And lastly, here is the maiden voyage (a little over 2 min long):
If you can't tell, was really nervous about my brakes haha. They are a bit soft, so need to sort that out.
Soooo glad it seems to be running well. I was so worried about any one of a million things going wrong, but seems to be good for the most part. Not even throwing any engine codes, which surprised me. There are a few things to work out. That fuel leak - I already hopefully fixed it with some thread sealant, so need to wait a day or so for that to cure. Also, it idles pretty high, unless letting off the throttle quickly, then it will go down. So need to troubleshoot that. Haven't set the timing yet per FSM.
So a few things to do, but all in all, very happy.
If you can't tell, was really nervous about my brakes haha. They are a bit soft, so need to sort that out.
Soooo glad it seems to be running well. I was so worried about any one of a million things going wrong, but seems to be good for the most part. Not even throwing any engine codes, which surprised me. There are a few things to work out. That fuel leak - I already hopefully fixed it with some thread sealant, so need to wait a day or so for that to cure. Also, it idles pretty high, unless letting off the throttle quickly, then it will go down. So need to troubleshoot that. Haven't set the timing yet per FSM.
So a few things to do, but all in all, very happy.
- Thread starter
- #408
Live look at me trying to work on wiring underneath and behind the FJ40 dash
- Thread starter
- #410
Been just chipping away at a few things. Put together my parking brake and got it installed. All the pieces:
Assembled:
And installed:
Ran into a problem though that I hope my fix will be ok. Since I custom made a gas pedal to go with the 3FE throttle cable, I mounted it and ran the throttle cable through the firewall right in the path of where the parking brake cable goes. See:
Obviously I cannot have the parking brake cable interfere with the gas pedal. The only solution I could come up with was to pull the parking brake cable aside and secure it in place going around the gas pedal and throttle cable. The problem here is that the parking brake cable is not really meant to bend this way and I had to really put some oomf into getting into this position.
However, it appears to be working properly as I pull the brake cable in and out. Hopefully it won't wear prematurely over time.
Assembled:
And installed:
Ran into a problem though that I hope my fix will be ok. Since I custom made a gas pedal to go with the 3FE throttle cable, I mounted it and ran the throttle cable through the firewall right in the path of where the parking brake cable goes. See:
Obviously I cannot have the parking brake cable interfere with the gas pedal. The only solution I could come up with was to pull the parking brake cable aside and secure it in place going around the gas pedal and throttle cable. The problem here is that the parking brake cable is not really meant to bend this way and I had to really put some oomf into getting into this position.
However, it appears to be working properly as I pull the brake cable in and out. Hopefully it won't wear prematurely over time.
Your build is an inspirational beauty!! Nice work. Can't wait to see it in person!
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- Aug 12, 2007
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Curtice's new SEMA Spec. late modle FOG / AUX switch kit w/ YAZAKI Clear switch JAPAN wrap added .................
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- Thread starter
- #413
Thanks Matt.
So I needed a new one because my son somehow busted the other one. I have no idea how he did it…it’s mounted next to the headlight switch. But this is what he did:
Anyway. Been traveling a bit so not tons of progress. Got the rear view mirror and visors mounted.
Other than that, been working on some engine issues. Have had a problem where the engine stalls occasionally and had been backfiring a bit. Went through a number of troubleshooting procedures until I realized I had the spark plugs gapped incorrectly. Apparently, the gap is different for a 3FE out of an FJ80 than an FJ62. So I regapped them and seems to have fixed the issue. Need to do a bit more test driving to be sure.
Yesterday, a friend asked me to help him replace the alternator on his LX570 (2008). Holy crap. That job is turning out to be way more complex that it first appeared. Anyone done this? The alternator is buried way deep in the engine bay and seemingly impossible to get out. We are trying different things, but will try again on Monday.
So I needed a new one because my son somehow busted the other one. I have no idea how he did it…it’s mounted next to the headlight switch. But this is what he did:
Anyway. Been traveling a bit so not tons of progress. Got the rear view mirror and visors mounted.
Other than that, been working on some engine issues. Have had a problem where the engine stalls occasionally and had been backfiring a bit. Went through a number of troubleshooting procedures until I realized I had the spark plugs gapped incorrectly. Apparently, the gap is different for a 3FE out of an FJ80 than an FJ62. So I regapped them and seems to have fixed the issue. Need to do a bit more test driving to be sure.
Yesterday, a friend asked me to help him replace the alternator on his LX570 (2008). Holy crap. That job is turning out to be way more complex that it first appeared. Anyone done this? The alternator is buried way deep in the engine bay and seemingly impossible to get out. We are trying different things, but will try again on Monday.
- Thread starter
- #414
Alright, as usual I’m bad at updating. Got a ton of stuff to document, which I will try to do. But things are looking good. I’d say I’m 97% done. Here it sits now:
Has about 100 miles on it so far and a few issues to sort out, but I’m pretty pleased.
I’ll post a bunch of stuff on how I got to this point since my last post.
Has about 100 miles on it so far and a few issues to sort out, but I’m pretty pleased.
I’ll post a bunch of stuff on how I got to this point since my last post.
Man that’s gorgeous! I’m just getting to the point of starting mine. Inspirational! Hope mine turns out that good. Is that the original color?
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where are the three non-usa exterior 3FE badge's i got for you going to be located Curtice 
Info on tires please.
- Thread starter
- #418
@steveola color is called Arles Blue (mid 90s Land Rover)
@tstepp920 tires are just KO2s 265/75/16 (about 32”).
@tstepp920 tires are just KO2s 265/75/16 (about 32”).
Man! That’s a great choice.
- Thread starter
- #420
Ok, took several pics of the [mostly] finished cruiser. Dealing with a few problems which I will outline after I post pics.
Maybe some day I’ll get around to the detailed documentation for the past few months, but for now, here is where I’m at.
Maybe some day I’ll get around to the detailed documentation for the past few months, but for now, here is where I’m at.