2F - rebuild...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'm not familiar with this engine so I'm just curious about the possibility of the plug going too deep and restricting oil flow.

Is that something that could happen on this block?
 
aztoyman said:
I'm not familiar with this engine so I'm just curious about the possibility of the plug going too deep and restricting oil flow.

Is that something that could happen on this block?
Click to expand...
No, that definitely can't happen.

The screw could even be longer.

I'll never need the hole I plugged with this screw again.

The experts here can surely explain better what this hole was for, because until recently I didn't even know I had this hole...
 
Pighead said:
Are you having the rotating assembly balanced?
Click to expand...

IMO, some of the best money you can spend on your rebuild, I get a big grin every time the motors spins smoothly past 3000 rpm without any drama.
Rumor is that the connecting rods in the 2F motors all came out of a 55 gallon barrel with no attention to weight during assembly.
Just a reasonable bit of attention ( not searching for perfection) to the balance makes a huge difference.
 
DickM said:
IMO, some of the best money you can spend on your rebuild, I get a big grin every time the motors spins smoothly past 3000 rpm without any drama.
Rumor is that the connecting rods in the 2F motors all came out of a 55 gallon barrel with no attention to weight during assembly.
Just a reasonable bit of attention ( not searching for perfection) to the balance makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...
I 100% agree with this. On my "new" rebuilt 2F the way the rotating assembly spins up is incredibly smooth. That was probably the biggest difference out of all the things I did. That and the cam.
 
Hello,

My engine block, crankshaft, pistons, and connecting rods have been at the engine builder's since last Friday.

Unfortunately, my contact person is sick and won't be back until next Monday.

Then I can and will discuss everything with him, including balancing the crankshaft.

I'll definitely keep you updated; as soon as there's any news, you'll hear it. 💪

See you soon… 😎✌️
 
Hi everyone,

My contact at the engine repair company is back on his feet and has looked at everything.

Last Friday, he sent me a detailed WhatsApp message.

I'll translate this message from German to English and show it to you...😎✌️
 
This is the message in German...

Screenshot_20260124_005048_com.whatsapp_edit_1659592512062907.webp


Screenshot_20260124_005059_com.whatsapp_edit_1659611047725925.webp
 
Hi, I've taken a look at everything. We can salvage and recondition the crankshaft. The bearing bores in the engine block are roughly cleaned and usable. We need to lap and polish the crankshaft, bore and hone the engine block to the first oversize (0.25mm), resurface the engine block, clean the bearing bores, re-tap and wash the threads, and fit the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. We'll also need to install the camshaft bearings, fit the camshaft, modify the pistons, and angle the connecting rods. Finally, we'll assemble the engine block with the bearings, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, camshaft, and oil seal. You'll need to provide pistons in an oversize of 0.25mm with piston rings and piston pins, as well as connecting rod and main bearings in standard size. Please also bring the camshaft bearings in standard size and the camshaft itself. We'll also need the flywheel oil seal. All together, including machining and assembly, the cost will be around €1700. We can talk on the phone next week to see if everything works for you. Have a nice weekend! Best, Philipp
 
I would put a "speedy sleeve" on the rear main seal. On one of my used engines, I installed a new rear main oil seal. My dad told me it would leak - and yes it did. He saw the faint groves on the crank and knew it would leak.

I'd be planning for break in with non detergent oil. Assembly lube and sealant should be minimal - more is not better. After several thousand miles and a few oil/filter changes I'd switch to synthetic.

I would also add a pre-oiler. Metal can, holds about 1+ l/qt. Spring loaded valve on bottom of the can with cable to the cab. Hose connected to engine oil sender port. Engine running - open valve - oil pressure will fill can and compress air in top of can. Close valve by releasing the cable. Re-fill engine oil. Next time you go to start the engine, open the valve by pulling the cable - the pressurized oil will flow into the system - pre lube - count to like 30 - start engine count to like 30 so the oil can return to the can - close valve.
I have read 90% of the engine wear occurs during start up - because of the delay of oil pressure build up.
 
"I have read 90% of the engine wear occurs during start up - because of the delay of oil pressure build up."
I heard the same thing - from Click and Clack, the Tappet Brothers!
 
Another common mod when rebuilding the 2F to the extent that you are is to go to larger Chevy valves, A lot of info here on MUD, and as always a lively discussion of pros and cons.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom