Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

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76 Spring Green with the later white wheels...

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Since the housing on your diff is a slip for over the studs, you might be able to either double nut the stud (if you have enough threads left) then back it out. If its too stripped maybe weld a sacrificial nut to it?

With the other studs in place it should be aligned enough that you could run the new one in...never tried it but sounds theoretically possible.

Also - not sure this matters as grease is another hotly debated topic here, but it looks like you packed your axles with high temp bearing grease. Specs call for a high molybdenum content grease there. All the moly grease I've seen is a dark gray...you might be ok to run it but I'd check the grease container and see if you can find a moly content.
 
RWBeringer4x4 said:
Since the housing on your diff is a slip for over the studs, you might be able to either double nut the stud (if you have enough threads left) then back it out. If its too stripped maybe weld a sacrificial nut to it?

With the other studs in place it should be aligned enough that you could run the new one in...never tried it but sounds theoretically possible.

Also - not sure this matters as grease is another hotly debated topic here, but it looks like you packed your axles with high temp bearing grease. Specs call for a high molybdenum content grease there. All the moly grease I've seen is a dark gray...you might be ok to run it but I'd check the grease container and see if you can find a moly content.
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Errrg. Crap. I was picking grease carefully, but may have seen something shiny and got distracted. Gonna be bummed if I have to do that dang grease all over again.

EDIT: Yep. Wrong grease. Yippee, get to clean it out again.

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Thanks Sarge for the tip on the STUD PULLER (all caps because it's my favorite tool I never met before this week - $16 Titan brand from Amazon). Worked well on the first one. Leaving the rest until the studs arrive. Looks like I can leave the diff closed.

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Also scraped out the wheel bearing grease from the knuckles so I can put in the correct moly grease. What a bummer.
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Scraped out most all of the same out of the birfs.
 
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Since I was stymied on the front axle for want of new studs for the diff, I worked to remove the rear axle again today. Finally had enough time and daylight to get that relatively simple task done.

But - it is a big milestone. Now I can get the body off the frame and get to working on the frame ((or more accurately, have someone else blast and paint/powdercoat/galvanize etc) while I finish the rear axle, brake conversion, diff swap out/rebuild).

I can also get the wheels done and tires bought so I can get a rolling chassis once all those things come together.

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Honger said:
One of my favorite threads right now... you've got good momentum on this project. Spring Green is going to look great!
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Thank you Honger. I'm really trying to learn what I'm doing, do a good job, help others, and have fun. So far it's accomplishing some of those goals. Not sure if I'm helping others or just posting everything I do in hopes that the Posers, Sarges, JimCs, RWBeringers etc of the world will continue to steer me from disaster.

This is my Facebook I guess.
 
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Speaking of disasters avoided: Beno's studs arrived today (really Saturday, but I failed to check the mailbox. What good comes in the mailbox anymore - no?)

Along with Sarge's stud remover, I replaced the studs in the front diff in about 45 minutes, and that's with taking it slow, hand threading the new studs back in, etc.

Didn't torque them yet (it got late on me), but it's ready. Now I'll repack the knuckles and birfs, and continue the front axle rebuild. Lockout hubs are next! Thinking of trying to polish them with corn cob or walnut shell blast media.

New vs old studs:
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A mean combo:
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Aaahhhh:
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Vae Victus said:
Not sure if I'm helping others or just posting everything I do in hopes that the Posers, Sarges, JimCs, RWBeringers etc of the world will continue to steer me from disaster.
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Oh geeze don't lump me in with those guys I'm just as lost as you are!!
 
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Weber Sarge said:
Nice stud remover , got a link since I don't own one of that type - mine are the cam style instead and limited on where they will fit .
Here's what I use - http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648639-Stud-Extractor/dp/B002INQORU/?tag=ihco-20 .
Sarge
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Honestly I bought this one bc it was $15, but the ability to have it easily reach into a smaller area has already paid off on the diff. There were a couple of tight spots, and even though I had to try a couple of times to get a good grip, once it got that grip, it worked flawlessly.

You definitely must have a "hammer" type drill/tool - whether it be air or electric to go along with this tool. You cannot remove studs (or any other stuck nut or bolt) without one. Someone taught me that a long time ago on my prior MINI Cooper.
 
Weber Sarge said:
My cam style has in incredible amount of leverage but is not really designed to preserve the stud threads if used with much force - but it does work well . The specific sets that have small bolt range sizes are the best but some pretty expensive tools .
Sarge
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This one certainly ruins the studs!
 
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