Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So, while the locking hubs await reassembly, I'm deconstructing the rear axle.

Removed the drums, removed the cylinders, and brake shoes. Removed the diff access cover, removed the pin from the diff, pushed in the axles a bit, took out the C Clips and pulled the axles out. Removed the backing plates as a last step.

IMG_1282.webp


IMG_1284.webp


IMG_1285.webp


Tip on removing the drums:
There is an access hole (two holes actually) in the drum that allows you to see the axle inner hub that it seats against. Spray your releasing liquid in there, and use a screwdriver and a hammer to get the screwdriver into that hole. That is where I actually started the drum that was being difficult to start separating.

Tip 2 on removing the drums:
Unscrew the 4 bolts from each of the two cylinders and then after you do tip 1 above, you can drive the entire thing off from the access hole where the cylinders attach. Whole thing pops right out.
IMG_1278.webp


I also started cleaning up the backing plates and other parts. Boy, having this air compressor is coming in very handy (blasting, air tools, airing up tires, blowing cr4p out of the garage.... I'm using it constantly).

IMG_1283.webp
 
Last edited:
Good idea Sarge.

Welding question for you - I have a Miller S-22 MIG. It is set up for .045 wire right now. I'm thinking that is to heavy a wire for when I want to do the body repairs of the sheet metal. Do you agree?
 
.030" would be maximum for most body stuff on a Cruiser, .023" would be a more appropriate size depending upon skill level . I rarely use a mig anymore, usually tig or stick. I did one small fender patch recently with 1/16" 7014 rod on ac , went down great .
Sarge

I've done a little bit of TIG, but that was on stainless, which was really difficult. I haven't tried to on steel, just haven't had the chance to practice it. I'll bet it would be a little bit more precise than stick or MIG.

Still I think MIG is going to be the easiest for me.

When you say .023 might be better based on skill level I assume you mean that with better skill I could use larger wire. Is this correct?
 
I would use 3/32" rod and filler for this type of metal but be warned - without backup gas the weld will be crap on the back side on this type of sheet metal . Building a purge box for something like this wouldn't be easy , either . Mig would be the best choice , run .023-030 and very short welds . Tig will build heat in sheetmetal in odd ways and takes a lot of practice not to warp the snot out of panels .
Sarge
 
Swapped the 3.70 diff onto the rear axle (thanks @ AlbertoSD), and began cleaning it up. Using a bit of Staurolite Starblast. Nice stuff.

Did most of it in the dark, holding a work light in one hand, hose in the other, pedal on one foot and stabilizing the axle (hanging from the hoist) with the other. Looked like a dang monkey.

Got about half way done.

Bagged the ends to keep the grit out.


ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1417307558.373133.webp

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1417307572.079793.webp
 
Time for a "cost of rebuild" update.

Code:
FJ40 Running Costs
Date Cost Running Total Item
3/15/2013 $4,000.00 $4,000.00 FJ40 from a guy in the GA Mountains
3/25/2013 $526.00 $4,526.00 Truck Delivery
3/27/2013 $290.00 $4,816.00 TrollHole Carb
3/27/2013 $20.00 $4,836.00 iH8Mud Support
3/28/2013 $65.00 $4,901.00 Starter - Used
3/28/2013 $132.00 $5,033.00 AutoZone - New Fluids
3/29/2013 $169.15 $5,202.15 eBay - Throttle Linkage
3/30/2013 $22.75 $5,224.90 OTC 6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller
3/30/2013 $175.00 $5,399.90 Titan Quatro 4L SUV Cover (EMP832)
3/30/2013 $298.28 $5,698.18 Dash pad replacement from iH8Mudder FJGoober
3/31/2013 $312.00 $6,010.18 iH8Mudder DaveWork JISHardware.com CAD bolt kit
4/3/2012 $159.00 $6,169.18 Battery, fluid pump
4/4/2013 $45.00 $6,214.18 Carb Spacer iH8Mudder rkymtnflyfisher
4/5/2013 $300.00 $6,514.18 2 Rear seats - iH8Mudder 2thDoc/David
4/5/2013 $60.00 $6,574.18 Air Cleaner - iH8Mudder RkyMtnFlyFisher/Ryan
4/6/2013 $203.17 $6,777.35 Advanced Auto - Clutch master, Clutch Slave, Brake Master
4/6/2013 $131.56 $6,908.91 NAPA - hoses, Air Filter, Fusable link, thermostat, fuel filter, belt
4/8/2013 $658.86 $7,567.77 CoolCruisers, Radiator, hoses, 2 front blinkers, 2 headlight globes, 2 door handles, steering rag joint
4/8/2013 $10.00 $7,577.77 Metric - screw set for 2 rear seats
4/7/2013 $103.93 $7,681.70 JDV Impact Screw Drivers - Megadora Impacta and Impact Driver Set 2400
4/10/2013 $228.70 $7,910.40 SOR order for various parts for eBrake, Throttle Pedal, Battery tray, carb gaskets, drain plug nuts and gaskets
4/15/2013 $113.00 $8,023.40 Matco Flare Tool
4/15/2013 $52.00 $8,075.40 Brake line and tools Amazon
4/13/2013 $32.00 $8,107.40 AeroKroil x2
4/10/2013 $22.00 $8,129.40 BG In-Force lubricant
4/16/2013 $69.24 $8,198.64 CruiserCorps - Radiator bushing, accelerator busing, cooling/heater union pipe
4/13/2013 $35.00 $8,233.64 Accelerator Pedal - iH8Mudder Mark Woytovich
4/17/2013 $192.00 $8,425.64 Powder coat fan shroud, skid plate, mesh grille, radiator housing
4/17/2013 $57.00 $8,482.64 Door bushings cruiserbits@gmail.com
4/18/2013 $68.00 $8,550.64 Exhaust Manifold, flange & ship - iH8Mudder HuminaJumina
4/18/2013 $5.00 $8,555.64 Shipping for some free bushings from iH8Mudder FishTaco
4/18/2013 $43.00 $8,598.64 FedHill.com brake fittings
4/18/2013 $145.00 $8,743.64 Water pump, iH8Mudder CDan
4/23/2013 $201.00 $8,944.64 TPI LandCruisers for Transfer Case Rebuild kit, 2 pinion seals
4/24/2013 $440.00 $9,384.64 Amazon for jack, jack stands, transmission jack
4/25/2013 $142.00 $9,526.64 Brake Booster #53-280, Advanced Auto
5/4/2013 $582.49 $10,109.13 TPI Landcruisers, clutch kit, transmission kit, etc
5/4/2013 $539.60 $10,648.73 SOR.com, Door panels, emblems, voltage regulator, flasher module, bunch of little crap
5/15/2013 $150.00 $10,798.73 Distributor from iH8Mudder TrollHole
5/17/2013 $154.00 $10,952.73 CruiserCorps, rear main seal, heater valve, grommets, exhaust gasket
5/19/2013 $28.00 $10,980.73 Air intake hose - from iH8Mudder BTUMAN
5/20/2013 $23.00 $11,003.73 Air intake nozzle - from iH8Mudder "76 fj40"
5/21/2013 $232.50 $11,236.23 3 FJ40 Steel Wheels
5/27/2013 $25.00 $11,261.23 Stepped Output Washers from iH8Mudder OrangeFJ55
5/31/2013 $118.63 $11,379.86 Mirror Arms from iH8Muddr Vintij74
6/1/2013 $30.60 $11,410.46 Flaming River FR1005 Shutoff from iH8Mudder jbadoni
6/6/2013 $53.50 $11,463.96 ZoroTools.com for grinder wheels
6/6/2013 $252.00 $11,715.96 Amazon for Metabo WEPBA14-150 grinder
6/26/2013 $167.15 $11,883.11 TPI for Ujoints and 2 Engine Mounts (front)
6/26/2013 $100.00 $11,983.11 2 FJ40 Steel Wheels from iH8Mudder VtgBeemer
6/12/2013 $0.00 $11,983.11 Fuel Lines free from iH8Mudder TCClark
6/28/2013 $255.00 $12,238.11 LED Tail Lights and 12v relaysfrom iH8Mudder Dancar and Chamba who shipped them from Austrailia.
7/5/2013 $9.00 $12,247.11 Shipping to Chamba for the lights from his house to mine. Thanks for sending it Express for the cost of standard Chamba!
7/15/2013 $246.00 $12,493.11 Used engine hoist $46, new engine stand, balancer, replacement bottle jack for hoist - $200
7/15/2013 $80.00 $12,573.11 Metric Rear Light Guards
9/16/2013 $50.00 $12,623.11 16 tooth speedo driven/drive gear from Mark's Offroad
9/25/2013 $0.00 $12,623.11 Engine Lift Hooks from mudder LandCrusher99 - thanks!!
10/7/2013 $150.00 $12,773.11 3.71 Diff from super40 on Mud.
10/1/2013 $256.00 $13,029.11 Rear Sill (Pending Transfer of $275) from Awl_TEQ
10/20/2013 $72.00 $13,101.11 TCSTARK for Original '76 Manuals
10/24/2013 $140.00 $13,241.11 Lowe Toyota, Beno, 5 hubcaps, 2 transmission synchros
11/1/2013 $500.00 $13,741.11 TCSTARK Fenders, rear heater and lines, tranny hump, gas cover, fender aprons
11/4/2013 $110.00 $13,851.11 77TLCFJ40 for left side tire carrier, panel style.
11/8/2013 $70.00 $13,921.11 TCSTARK alternator bracket - fuel sending unit - gas pedal - eBrake lever - visors, bumperettes
12/10/2014 $38.50 $13,959.61 Permatex x 3
12/26/2013 $100.00 $14,059.61 Front Windshield from Rainman
2/15/2014 $20.00 $14,079.61 46mm socket and 1/2" adapter Amazon
3/24/2014 $55.00 $14,134.61 Wytovitch TEQ emblem
3/25/2014 $50.00 $14,184.61 $50 Gold Membership to MUD. It's saved me thousands.
5/6/2014 $55.00 $14,239.61 CAD Plating round 1
5/6/2014 $75.00 $14,314.61 Various paint stripping disks Amazon
7/19/2014 $197.50 $14,512.11 PartsGeek.com Centric booster (160.88103)
9/25/2014 $11.33 $14,523.44 Nalley toyota - cone washers
10/13/2014 $328.92 $14,852.36 Nalley Toyota - Part #13751-61010, 2F LIFTER Qty 12, List $36.55 MUD discount $27.41, $328.92
10/23/2014 $24.00 $14,876.36 Autozone - grease, oil, startup lube.
10/24/2014 $30.00 $14,906.36 Nalley Toyota - studs, bolts, washers for front diff.
11/5/2014 $164.00 $15,070.36 Nalley Toyota - front disk rotor x 2
12/1/2014 $120.00 $15,190.36 Racer65 OEM Visors

$15,190.36 TOTAL

Future Projects
$2,500.00 Body Paint
$1,200.00 Tires
$500.00 Power steering
$1,500.00 A/C
$2,500.00 OME Suspension
$1,500.00 Internal cosmetics, seating,
$1,500.00 Misc Parts
$1,300.00 Weatherstripping

$12,500.00 TOTAL ADDITIONAL

$27,690.36 ESTIMATED GRAND TOTAL
 
Still less than a new Camry :)
 
Wow detailed cost list nice work!!! When you expect to have it complete?


Proud owner of Beast. 77 BJ40
 
Still less than a new Camry :)

And lots more fun to drive - someday.

Omg, your keeping track? I'm too scared to add mine up.

Thought it might be helpful to others. Or scare someone into selling their incomplete project for a good price!

It does show the wide variety of expenses one can choose to endure, or not.

Wow detailed cost list nice work!!! When you expect to have it complete?
Proud owner of Beast. 77 BJ40

Prob another year. But, I'm shooting for that big milestone of a rolling chassis with frame restored, engine (done), new clutch and RMS, tranny/tcase (done), new suspension, complete axles (nearing completion), powder coated wheels (being done) , new tires within a couple of/few months.
 
Got my 20 ton press yesterday. Yaaaa! Only took from Nov 17 to Dec 2 from Harbor Freight (and I only paid $96 shipping :confused:). It went together nicely. Then I started to test the bottle jack. Hmm, the main beam sure does wobble a lot.

Oh, wait, :doh: :censor::flipoff2::censor::skull::censor: they sent me the WRONG one. They sent me the cheaper H frame, and I ordered the A-Frame (with a coupon was same price as H-Frame woulda been).

Well, since I already put it together and destroyed the box, I was none to happy when I realized that they had ( and I had ) f-ed up.

I told 'em - "You can have it back, but I'm not taking it back apart, and I'm not boxing the 200 pound thing up for your mistake. You have 30 days to come get it. After that, it's a gift for someone for Christmas."

No response from them other than "We'll ship you the return label. Trucking company will be there in 10 days. Box it up." Oh hell no!

:worms:

20tonHframe.webp
 
Yeah my plates broke in half on the 12 ton press, get some 1/2 inch steel from a metal yard or something
 
Honestly , you are better off with a H frame anyway . Just a note - do not use their included press plates as they are cast steel and can explode under a load . Look into a proper heavy set from Swag Offroad , very nice set for the price .
Sarge
Why is the H frame better? I've read in the reviews that the A frame is much tighter tolerance....

Wow - looking at the press brakes at SWAG. Nice. Do the press brakes work in an A Frame? Hell Sarge - now you just cost me another $500 in arbor plates and a heavy duty press brake (that thing is the schnizzle). Christmas I guess. So my address is .... :santa:
 
Last edited:
H-frames in the long run are a lot more versatile . Yes , some will have a fair bit of "slop" but overall the benefit of flexibility is there . Keep in mind that a lot of those reviews are about the cheap presses , not a true decent quality unit .
Swag's press brake kit is one of the best-kept secrets out there . Very handy tool and with their design of the flat-top adapter makes it even more versatile . The only real limit is it's width , but given the thickness capability it is a great tool .
Just keep in mind that brake must be supported at full width or you risk destroying it . Should be no issue in working with an A-frame as long as it has vertical clearance sufficient enough to support it .
I'm building a 30 ton brake similar to Swag's , albeit a lot heavier .
Sarge
 
Back
Top Bottom