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Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together
- Thread starter Vae Victus
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #922
Progress. Finally caught about a 3 hr window today. I was able to get the bolts for the front rotors on the bench grinder wire wheel and get them all cleaned up. Went ahead and did all the bolts and nuts for the rest of the front axle (locking hub, caliper).
Removed the old races in the hub:
Used a race installer loaner from Autozone for the new races.
Packed the hub with high temp grease.
Attached rotor to hub. Checking my torque: 35 ft lbs.
Then attached the rotor Assy to the spindle
Torqued the first nut on the spindle to 43 ft lbs, turned the rotor 3 times both ways. Loosened the nut and tightened to 60 INCH LBS (5 ft lbs). Measured the pull with the fish scale and got around 9 lbs on both sides. That's good. That end the look ring/nut combo and was good to go.
Removed the old races in the hub:
Used a race installer loaner from Autozone for the new races.
Packed the hub with high temp grease.
Attached rotor to hub. Checking my torque: 35 ft lbs.
Then attached the rotor Assy to the spindle
Torqued the first nut on the spindle to 43 ft lbs, turned the rotor 3 times both ways. Loosened the nut and tightened to 60 INCH LBS (5 ft lbs). Measured the pull with the fish scale and got around 9 lbs on both sides. That's good. That end the look ring/nut combo and was good to go.
Keep the old races in your tool box. Next time you need to replace those sized bearings you won't need to rent those tools.
- Thread starter
- #924
I cleaned up my locking hubs. Original rubber seal spring and detent ball seem to be in good shape.
I was hoping to be able to polish the aluminum, but the angles are too tough to polish so I decided to just blast and give it a clearcoat.
And yes once again, I misplaced one of the cone washers. Somewhere between the blasting cabinet and inside my house in the area where I do some work when it's cold, I lost it.
I was hoping to be able to polish the aluminum, but the angles are too tough to polish so I decided to just blast and give it a clearcoat.
And yes once again, I misplaced one of the cone washers. Somewhere between the blasting cabinet and inside my house in the area where I do some work when it's cold, I lost it.
I'm so jealous of your shop toys. I'm Enjoying watching the rebuild.
- Thread starter
- #926
Thanks YJ. It's the folks who can do great work with simple tools I'm in awe of. I have to cheat!
- Thread starter
- #927
Locking hubs are giving me fits. I can't get them back together.
I can't get the dang snap ring back in (part #5). Tried the new seal, old seal, flipped the snap ring, swapped snap rings, added grease removed grease, lined the detent ball up at Free, Locked, and in between. Changed where the ends of the snap ring line up to be on the free or locked areas, and I've flipped it around so the ends are opposite the free and locked detents.
What's the secret?
I can't get the dang snap ring back in (part #5). Tried the new seal, old seal, flipped the snap ring, swapped snap rings, added grease removed grease, lined the detent ball up at Free, Locked, and in between. Changed where the ends of the snap ring line up to be on the free or locked areas, and I've flipped it around so the ends are opposite the free and locked detents.
What's the secret?
Hey VV - Just got your texts (phone was dead) and didn't want to respond at midnight. These were kind of a bear for me too - How I did it:
1. Get some snap ring pliers, and use them to pull the ring together using the "cut outs" to reduce the radius.
2. With the other hand, I wedged the smallest flathead screwdrive I could find into that trianguar cut out, with the blade flat, and facing the "point" of the triangular cut out.
3. I used what little leverage I could get with the screwdriver wedged in there to push down on the back of the snap ring, while simultaneously using the pliers to squeeze it together and reduce the radius. (not easy, when everything is greasy and spring loaded)
Once I got it in the "channel, I kind of went around with the flathead and pushed down on the ring and popped it into the groove....
The key was not trying to seat the "open" side of the ring in the groove, but rather wedging it into the channel from behind with the screwdriver first, THEN releasing with the pliers and allowing the ring to expand.
I can't really tell from that picture - is the dial pressed into the hub face far enough to "witness" the groove the snap ring rides in? I know on mine, I could SEE it but it wasn't exposed fully. I could get the ring to ride in the channel using the method above, but it wasn't until I worked the screwdriver around and put some light pressure on the ring that it finally seated in the groove and popped into place.
Sorry - I'm sure that's probably pretty basic and you may have tried it, but it worked for me! One of those situations where it would be nice to have a 3rd hand...
1. Get some snap ring pliers, and use them to pull the ring together using the "cut outs" to reduce the radius.
2. With the other hand, I wedged the smallest flathead screwdrive I could find into that trianguar cut out, with the blade flat, and facing the "point" of the triangular cut out.
3. I used what little leverage I could get with the screwdriver wedged in there to push down on the back of the snap ring, while simultaneously using the pliers to squeeze it together and reduce the radius. (not easy, when everything is greasy and spring loaded)
Once I got it in the "channel, I kind of went around with the flathead and pushed down on the ring and popped it into the groove....
The key was not trying to seat the "open" side of the ring in the groove, but rather wedging it into the channel from behind with the screwdriver first, THEN releasing with the pliers and allowing the ring to expand.
I can't really tell from that picture - is the dial pressed into the hub face far enough to "witness" the groove the snap ring rides in? I know on mine, I could SEE it but it wasn't exposed fully. I could get the ring to ride in the channel using the method above, but it wasn't until I worked the screwdriver around and put some light pressure on the ring that it finally seated in the groove and popped into place.
Sorry - I'm sure that's probably pretty basic and you may have tried it, but it worked for me! One of those situations where it would be nice to have a 3rd hand...
- Thread starter
- #929
I believe I have done similar to what you suggest - it only makes sense. I can get the snap ring in at the tips, but then the other side of the dial seems to bulge out - stopping the ring from going in no matter how much pressure or leverage I apply.
I'm pretty sure in my case I compressed the tips together, but angled it in "back first" and pried the back end down into the groove (while keeping the tips compressed) FIRST, then pushed the tips down into the channel...but I honestly can't remember. I do remember this providing some difficulty, but not to the level you're describing. Seems like your O-ring fits ok...so I'm not really sure what is going on here. Wish I could be of more help...
- Thread starter
- #931
I'm still messing with this. I've tried the way Rick has suggested which is to put the back of the clip in first and then work it up toward the tips. However no matter which way I do it I can only get it in about a third of the way.
When I flip over the handle you can see in the photo that half of the control handle sticks up and the other half is down in the housing.
If I remove the gasket for the seal, I can get the clip in. Both the new seal or the old seal acts the same way. The new seal is slightly thicker than the old seal.
In the photo below you can see that there's about a half a millimeter to go to get the front of the clips in.
No amount of force will get the clip in. Even if I flip the whole thing over and push down on the housing it still won't create enough room for the clip to be forced in with a screwdriver.
When I flip over the handle you can see in the photo that half of the control handle sticks up and the other half is down in the housing.
If I remove the gasket for the seal, I can get the clip in. Both the new seal or the old seal acts the same way. The new seal is slightly thicker than the old seal.
In the photo below you can see that there's about a half a millimeter to go to get the front of the clips in.
No amount of force will get the clip in. Even if I flip the whole thing over and push down on the housing it still won't create enough room for the clip to be forced in with a screwdriver.
Have you tried a bench press or even a huge vice to compress the new seal in place while installing the locking ring? I believe that will work for you.
- Thread starter
- #933
Re: Using a press: No - is that normally required? Interesting.
Fill the mating surface with aggressive toothpaste or a paste made from sink cleanser without the gasket installed . Put down pressure on it and rotate until your arms are about to fall off , then clean and try reassembly . Bet it falls together....
Sarge
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #935
Ok - you and @vtgbeemer suggesting along the same lines (I asked this question as a separate topic). I bet you are right.
None of this was necessary in my case...but I hope it works for you! You sure there's not a buildup of gunk/grease, etc. in the channel that the O-ring rides in?
- Thread starter
- #937
Clean as a whistle. However clean a whistle is.
I forgot to mention the arms falling off but I bet Sarge is right.
could you have the right and left swapped? tolerances could slightly be different. also keep those old races..simply cut through one side of it with a cut off wheel so next time you need a race driver it will be the perfect size. cutting through one side allows you to be able to compress it with your fingers for easy removal
- Thread starter
- #940
I'm still working on this locking hubs problem. If you haven't seen it I have another thread here. If you have something to contribute or some expertise and locking hubs I would appreciate your taking a quick read and adding any advice you might have.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/aisin-locking-hubs-trouble-reassembling.824349/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/aisin-locking-hubs-trouble-reassembling.824349/