Flex pipe is probably galvanized which is hard to weld.
Glad to see you are almost there.
Glad to see you are almost there.
Build 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”
- Thread starter FJBen
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- Thread starter
- #1,342
- Thread starter
- #1,343
Quick little test drive again. I got the exhaust to stay on, tightening the crap out of it. This is less than 1/2 throttle.
Boost can pretty much instantly get up to 15~17psi. Seems to top out at 18. I think that’s where the factory wastegate is set to.
I wouldn’t say it’s way faster, it’s much easier to get to speed. Holds power better.
However, still fighting little bugs. The drain line I used split. I’ve only been doing short runs and checking to make sure nothing like this would happen. I’ve found a different Cummins flexible steel line that I didn’t see before so hopefully this will work. Pulling the turbo again shouldn’t be near as bad. It’s s process and all custom so there will be hiccups.
So far in my short drives, it’s been a worthy upgrade. So much quicker to boost, more boost and way less lag. Would Probabaly benefit from an intercooler now.
Boost can pretty much instantly get up to 15~17psi. Seems to top out at 18. I think that’s where the factory wastegate is set to.
I wouldn’t say it’s way faster, it’s much easier to get to speed. Holds power better.
However, still fighting little bugs. The drain line I used split. I’ve only been doing short runs and checking to make sure nothing like this would happen. I’ve found a different Cummins flexible steel line that I didn’t see before so hopefully this will work. Pulling the turbo again shouldn’t be near as bad. It’s s process and all custom so there will be hiccups.
So far in my short drives, it’s been a worthy upgrade. So much quicker to boost, more boost and way less lag. Would Probabaly benefit from an intercooler now.
I have to imagine quicker to boost = quicker to more power which probably = faster?
Not that you are out for 1/4 mile times...
What was that sticker on the side of Pigtastic/Pigzilla? "0 to 60 in ~5 minutes", or something like that...
Not that you are out for 1/4 mile times...
What was that sticker on the side of Pigtastic/Pigzilla? "0 to 60 in ~5 minutes", or something like that...
- Thread starter
- #1,345
yep, better response, better effieciancy etc...If you can keep your foot out of it ! lol
- Thread starter
- #1,346
So I got some more shackles as the Ironman were only very slightly longer than OEM.
The Ironman on the Left, Dobinsons on the right. Dobinsons are beefier for sure, but both are beefier than OEM so I'm not sure that really matters. I just wanted slightly longer shackles in the front to help with the rake, especially with the soft top on. Should lift the front of it close to 1/2" which should be great.
I got another silicon drain hose slapped on so I could at least move the cruiser around while waiting for the flex drain line. The line I found on 4btswaps is a factory cummins part. Hopefully it doesn't make my truck vibrate more
Hopefully it's here by this weekend although I'm not especially looking forward to pulling the turbo again. It will take some work squeezing it around the turbo with the clocking, but I feel better about the steel line than what I currently have. The end will just be cut off then I can slip a small section of hose to connect to the block.
3287818
I went for another quick drive down the road. So far the best way I can describe it is that it's "quicker" since it basically spools up fast. Less throttle to get going and none of that 80s lag. It's more of a "modern"
feel to it rather than the push and wait. Also has seemed to clear up all the rollin' coal. I'm sure I'm underfueled now but I'm waiting to get the line completed before I do anymore changes.
The Ironman on the Left, Dobinsons on the right. Dobinsons are beefier for sure, but both are beefier than OEM so I'm not sure that really matters. I just wanted slightly longer shackles in the front to help with the rake, especially with the soft top on. Should lift the front of it close to 1/2" which should be great.
I got another silicon drain hose slapped on so I could at least move the cruiser around while waiting for the flex drain line. The line I found on 4btswaps is a factory cummins part. Hopefully it doesn't make my truck vibrate more
Hopefully it's here by this weekend although I'm not especially looking forward to pulling the turbo again. It will take some work squeezing it around the turbo with the clocking, but I feel better about the steel line than what I currently have. The end will just be cut off then I can slip a small section of hose to connect to the block.3287818
Turbocharger Oil Drain Connection
I went for another quick drive down the road. So far the best way I can describe it is that it's "quicker" since it basically spools up fast. Less throttle to get going and none of that 80s lag. It's more of a "modern"
feel to it rather than the push and wait. Also has seemed to clear up all the rollin' coal. I'm sure I'm underfueled now but I'm waiting to get the line completed before I do anymore changes.
- Thread starter
- #1,347
Well that showed up quick. Ordered late on the 31st and here it is. Didn't even get a tracking number. https://s1partscenter.com Truck supply center.
Looks like this should work good so fingers crossed.
Oh and my parts for the Tundra showed up. It's getting lifted/leveled.
So at this point, we will only have 1 vehicle that isn't lifted, the Sienna lol. Tundra, Cruiser, 4runner, Eurovan all lifted. (googles for Sienna lift kits...)
Looks like this should work good so fingers crossed.
Oh and my parts for the Tundra showed up. It's getting lifted/leveled.
So at this point, we will only have 1 vehicle that isn't lifted, the Sienna lol. Tundra, Cruiser, 4runner, Eurovan all lifted. (googles for Sienna lift kits...)
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- Thread starter
- #1,348
Turbo came off pretty quickly. I figured out the best way to get the bolts off so it comes off In like 15 mins.
Clearance is tight, but works
Mounted up and routed the oil drain around. This works and looks so much better. Use just a small section of hose to connect.
To tighten the turbo I had to modify a cheap wrench. Grind away, would have been even better to put a bend in it.
Clearance is tight, but works
Mounted up and routed the oil drain around. This works and looks so much better. Use just a small section of hose to connect.
To tighten the turbo I had to modify a cheap wrench. Grind away, would have been even better to put a bend in it.
- Thread starter
- #1,349
Few more updates.
This was a great chunk of luck to happen to me. when pulling the C-clip for the waste gate arm I heard the tell tale "fling, tick, tick ping" of the circlip bouncing off of multiple things in the engine, careening off of lost hidden 10mm sockets and though here we go...
That little turd fell perfect right on the air filter housing. I should have bought a lottery ticket.
Next up, check after every 20~30min drive. What did I find?
Yeah, probably helps to have the nuts holding the turbo down. Went and got more, and some loc-tite. One was still tight, the hardest one to get to. In a stroke of bad decisions, I elected to just torque that one and let it go. Well, it let go
so I need to get another bolt and loc-tite (auto-correct tried to say lactate uh no!) it on. I may try to double nut them as well.
Replacing other intake pieces. 45* reducer and straight for other side of crossover pipe. Getting rid of worm drive clamps. Will need to shorten the 45 to fit, but hoping that angle is right.
Of course glamour picture.
This was a great chunk of luck to happen to me. when pulling the C-clip for the waste gate arm I heard the tell tale "fling, tick, tick ping" of the circlip bouncing off of multiple things in the engine, careening off of lost hidden 10mm sockets and though here we go...
That little turd fell perfect right on the air filter housing. I should have bought a lottery ticket.
Next up, check after every 20~30min drive. What did I find?
Yeah, probably helps to have the nuts holding the turbo down. Went and got more, and some loc-tite. One was still tight, the hardest one to get to. In a stroke of bad decisions, I elected to just torque that one and let it go. Well, it let go
so I need to get another bolt and loc-tite (auto-correct tried to say lactate uh no!) it on. I may try to double nut them as well. Replacing other intake pieces. 45* reducer and straight for other side of crossover pipe. Getting rid of worm drive clamps. Will need to shorten the 45 to fit, but hoping that angle is right.
Of course glamour picture.
McMaster-Carr sells distorted-thread and flex-top lock nuts that would work in high temps.
- Thread starter
- #1,352
That was my next stop. So far, the blue loc-tite has held, I'll just keep an eye on it.
- Thread starter
- #1,355
More lulzs
Had to get my tire repaired. First question, can I get your keys to check the mileage
You don’t need that buddy! He did however see it had arb lockers and was really digging the rig. Started pouring rain just after this so nice to have that full soft top.
Measurements on tires after almost exactly 3 years of use and just about 50,000kms/31,000miles. Center block measurement, the outsides have a little more.
6/32
5/32
7/32
4/32
Pretty close although that 4/32 is lower than I'd like. 19/32 is the new measurement. Which means my best tire is 36% of new, and lowest is 20%. So for me, I usually get tires around this time frame. I like to sell and get a little cash, but it won't be much with how they are worn down. I will need new tires before winter most likely, although these would probably get me through 1 more.
They definitely wore faster than the BFG's I've had in the past, but I like them much better overall than the BFGs. So I'm not going with the 255 /85's again. They seem just a little too small on here, especially with the soft top on. I do like the size for sure.
So per other discussions, I'm going to try the next step up.
Found some takeoff 17s, they are pretty much new shape and cheap so thats the way I'm going for now. Will necessitate a spacer which isn't really what I wanted to do, but finding the right backspacing in a wheel I liked and could afford was proving to be near impossible.
The top candidate is still the Yokohama G003 285/75r17. The crazy thing is tire prices have started to spike, at least the ones I'm looking at, jeez. A couple months ago they were cheaper than the 255s. Now they are $343ea at discount. BFG KM3 are $515ea
Toyo MT are $400. Kenda Clever are $283. Wish there were some more options for MT's in a skinny, but there aren't a lot.
Had to get my tire repaired. First question, can I get your keys to check the mileage
You don’t need that buddy! He did however see it had arb lockers and was really digging the rig. Started pouring rain just after this so nice to have that full soft top.Measurements on tires after almost exactly 3 years of use and just about 50,000kms/31,000miles. Center block measurement, the outsides have a little more.
6/32
5/32
7/32
4/32
Pretty close although that 4/32 is lower than I'd like. 19/32 is the new measurement. Which means my best tire is 36% of new, and lowest is 20%. So for me, I usually get tires around this time frame. I like to sell and get a little cash, but it won't be much with how they are worn down. I will need new tires before winter most likely, although these would probably get me through 1 more.
They definitely wore faster than the BFG's I've had in the past, but I like them much better overall than the BFGs. So I'm not going with the 255 /85's again. They seem just a little too small on here, especially with the soft top on. I do like the size for sure.
So per other discussions, I'm going to try the next step up.
Found some takeoff 17s, they are pretty much new shape and cheap so thats the way I'm going for now. Will necessitate a spacer which isn't really what I wanted to do, but finding the right backspacing in a wheel I liked and could afford was proving to be near impossible.
The top candidate is still the Yokohama G003 285/75r17. The crazy thing is tire prices have started to spike, at least the ones I'm looking at, jeez. A couple months ago they were cheaper than the 255s. Now they are $343ea at discount. BFG KM3 are $515ea
Toyo MT are $400. Kenda Clever are $283. Wish there were some more options for MT's in a skinny, but there aren't a lot.
- Thread starter
- #1,358
- Thread starter
- #1,360