Builds 1987 FJ60 Restoration + 5.3 Vortec Swap
- Thread starter suppjoe
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- fj60 ls swap restoration
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- Thread starter
- #102
Thanks! More progress is being made during the quarantine but I’m also repainting my daily lol
- Thread starter
- #103
Howdy fellas, been a moment.
Things I’ve done recently:
Made some cargo panels - I have the originals but they’re sorta rough and I also don’t like the way they look. Made some out of 1/4” ply wood, upholstery foam and some black Naugahyde. They’re retained with button head gun-blue M6 hardware which I think looks cool. Was gonna build them with a sub inset, but I decided I’d rather just have a separate box, thus the loose wires.
Also put in a 1600W inverter wired split to a household outlet. Came out pretty well! Had to use a pretty beefy relay for that setup but it works perfectly. The inverter can be turned on/off from a toggle switch where the choke used to be (No pic of that right now oops).
I also started dismantling the heater box so as to rebuild the A/C system but am yet to order parts. Evap coil was absolutely gross.
needless to say, I will be replacing the entire system front to back. I also modified my A/C amplifier so that it won’t need a tach signal like when it had the 2F but instead the LS pcm will sense the load and adjust. Perhaps not the most perfect way to do it but it’s the easiest and least failure prone way I could think of.
ALSO built a front bumper - kept it very simple. Decided if I really wanted a winch I can always rebuild it but I won’t be needing a winch with all this powah!
Things I’ve done recently:
Made some cargo panels - I have the originals but they’re sorta rough and I also don’t like the way they look. Made some out of 1/4” ply wood, upholstery foam and some black Naugahyde. They’re retained with button head gun-blue M6 hardware which I think looks cool. Was gonna build them with a sub inset, but I decided I’d rather just have a separate box, thus the loose wires.
Also put in a 1600W inverter wired split to a household outlet. Came out pretty well! Had to use a pretty beefy relay for that setup but it works perfectly. The inverter can be turned on/off from a toggle switch where the choke used to be (No pic of that right now oops).
I also started dismantling the heater box so as to rebuild the A/C system but am yet to order parts. Evap coil was absolutely gross.
needless to say, I will be replacing the entire system front to back. I also modified my A/C amplifier so that it won’t need a tach signal like when it had the 2F but instead the LS pcm will sense the load and adjust. Perhaps not the most perfect way to do it but it’s the easiest and least failure prone way I could think of.
ALSO built a front bumper - kept it very simple. Decided if I really wanted a winch I can always rebuild it but I won’t be needing a winch with all this powah!
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
The ls ecm will see the load it will be perfectly fine
Tommy
Tommy
- Thread starter
- #106
Thanks for confirming - not totally new to LS's but somewhat new to keeping A/C haha
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I would start your owm thread for the question you have not on someones ls swap thread
Tommy
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Nice job bringing it back to life!
- Thread starter
- #110
Progress is being made folks. Shouldn't be long before I'm ready to insure and tag it. Got some brand new 4Runner wipers from CityRacer:
Got a shiny new climate control bezel from TrailTailor and some new climate control knobs from Toyota (disregard missing glove box and ugly wires - they have been cleaned up):
And the final pieces of to the puzzle are the actual AC components. I bought a new evap coil, low pressure switch, TXV and drier for the land cruiser and a shiny new 10S17F compressor for the 'ol 5.3. I found some 10S17F flange adapters on eBay and the lines are being made up by Cam @ Mosley as we speak. Made a snazzy bracket for the drier as the original one has probably turned to dust. It also seems as if this aftermarket battery tray I have would be in the way of the original bracket. If anyone is wondering - 2.5" exhaust clamps are a perfect fit for a FJ60 drier.
Functioning AC is a must if I'm gonna daily this in Georgia so it's not hitting the mean streets until that's wrapped up.
Got a shiny new climate control bezel from TrailTailor and some new climate control knobs from Toyota (disregard missing glove box and ugly wires - they have been cleaned up):
And the final pieces of to the puzzle are the actual AC components. I bought a new evap coil, low pressure switch, TXV and drier for the land cruiser and a shiny new 10S17F compressor for the 'ol 5.3. I found some 10S17F flange adapters on eBay and the lines are being made up by Cam @ Mosley as we speak. Made a snazzy bracket for the drier as the original one has probably turned to dust. It also seems as if this aftermarket battery tray I have would be in the way of the original bracket. If anyone is wondering - 2.5" exhaust clamps are a perfect fit for a FJ60 drier.
Functioning AC is a must if I'm gonna daily this in Georgia so it's not hitting the mean streets until that's wrapped up.
- Thread starter
- #111
As in condenser coil? If so I think OEM Toyota is about as efficient as any - and it fits with no modification.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
New denso is fine believe me
- Thread starter
- #113
Long time no speak. Lots of progress was made over the past couple of weeks! AC is now fully together and working. Used some #8, #6 adapters for the 10S17F compressor I found on eBay that work great.
Compressor was wired to pin 7 on the AC amp after removing the resistor noted in The A/C Amp Thread. Lines were rebuilt with the kit from Mosley Motors and crimped by a friend locally. They came out rather nice - it's a very comprehensive kit, would recommend.
Got it pulled down and filled up with r134 only to realize the head pressure was too high for it to cool properly, which then prompted the purchase of a pretty cool shrouded dual electric fan setup from Derale (16831) which fits the OE radiator almost perfectly. One side is wired to come on with the AC clutch and the other side is uses coolant temp as a trigger.
The land cruiser made the 70+ mile drive from the shop in Macon to my home in Atlanta and is now commuting 40 mins to and from work on the daily. More to come, namely seat re upholstery. May get a driving video at some point - spins the tires when the road is wet LOL
Compressor was wired to pin 7 on the AC amp after removing the resistor noted in The A/C Amp Thread. Lines were rebuilt with the kit from Mosley Motors and crimped by a friend locally. They came out rather nice - it's a very comprehensive kit, would recommend.
Got it pulled down and filled up with r134 only to realize the head pressure was too high for it to cool properly, which then prompted the purchase of a pretty cool shrouded dual electric fan setup from Derale (16831) which fits the OE radiator almost perfectly. One side is wired to come on with the AC clutch and the other side is uses coolant temp as a trigger.
The land cruiser made the 70+ mile drive from the shop in Macon to my home in Atlanta and is now commuting 40 mins to and from work on the daily. More to come, namely seat re upholstery. May get a driving video at some point - spins the tires when the road is wet LOL
Looks great... I sent you a PM on AC compressor wiring question.
- Thread starter
- #115
Just gonna post this info here as well in case someone else needs it:
(this info is all located in The A/C Amp Thread, including one of the photos. Thank you @TrickyT for your vast and infinite wisdom)
Coming off of the AC amp thats attached to the heater box there is a plug. You need to use the wire coming off of pin 7 - that is the wire that powers the AC clutch.
you'll also need to remove this resistor on the amp for this to work.
SO, remove that resistor, pin 7 on the amp to AC compressor +, the - on the compressor obviously needs to be grounded. You don't need to install any extra relays or anything - this should do it.
(this info is all located in The A/C Amp Thread, including one of the photos. Thank you @TrickyT for your vast and infinite wisdom)
Coming off of the AC amp thats attached to the heater box there is a plug. You need to use the wire coming off of pin 7 - that is the wire that powers the AC clutch.
you'll also need to remove this resistor on the amp for this to work.
SO, remove that resistor, pin 7 on the amp to AC compressor +, the - on the compressor obviously needs to be grounded. You don't need to install any extra relays or anything - this should do it.
Just gonna post this info here as well in case someone else needs it:
(this info is all located in The A/C Amp Thread, including one of the photos. Thank you @TrickyT for your vast and infinite wisdom)
Coming off of the AC amp thats attached to the heater box there is a plug. You need to use the wire coming off of pin 7 - that is the wire that powers the AC clutch.
you'll also need to remove this resistor on the amp for this to work.
SO, remove that resistor, pin 7 on the amp to AC compressor +, the - on the compressor obviously needs to be grounded. You don't need to install any extra relays or anything - this should do it.
Thanks for the great information. How did you wire your Derale fan for the AC?
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I thought you were done with your swap weeeeeeeeks ago actually moooonths ago all tbis info is where you get down to tbe nitty gritty of doing an ls swap
the swap was complete in January. The AC stuff was started a month ago when it started to get hot up here. The ac works, but I need to fine tune the fan wiring set up...
- Thread starter
- #119
Yeah so I just split the signal from the AC amp (pin 7) and used it as a signal for a relay that powers one of my fans. As of right now I don’t have any overheating issues even when sitting in the Starbucks drive thru lol
- Thread starter
- #120
Been a minute, have been forgetting to post progress.
A/C works perfectly now that I've added the extra fan/shroud. I bought an upholstery kit from CCOT; super solid quality and a very easy install. Also re-worked the foams so the seats don't feel worn out anymore. Really prefer this look over BMW/other unoriginal seats.
And here's a photo of how she sits as of now. Will be completing the rear bumper this weekend! Have been spending a lot more time getting the drift car ready but it's time to wrap this thing up.
(sorry super blurry phone pic at dawn lol)
A/C works perfectly now that I've added the extra fan/shroud. I bought an upholstery kit from CCOT; super solid quality and a very easy install. Also re-worked the foams so the seats don't feel worn out anymore. Really prefer this look over BMW/other unoriginal seats.
And here's a photo of how she sits as of now. Will be completing the rear bumper this weekend! Have been spending a lot more time getting the drift car ready but it's time to wrap this thing up.
(sorry super blurry phone pic at dawn lol)
