Builds 1987 FJ60 Restoration + 5.3 Vortec Swap (6 Viewers)

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Do not tap the water pump. The idea is to take steam (air) and REMOVE it from the engine. Either through a proper steam port on the top of the radiator, a port into the top radiator hose or into a surge tank.

Tapping the water pump dumps air back into the system. Air in the system means an inefficient cooling system and generally over heating.
 
Do not tap the water pump. The idea is to take steam (air) and REMOVE it from the engine. Either through a proper steam port on the top of the radiator, a port into the top radiator hose or into a surge tank.

Tapping the water pump dumps air back into the system. Air in the system means an inefficient cooling system and generally over heating.
Beat me to it and also when your water pump goes bad and your not anywhere near the drill and tap what are you going to do?
 
Beat me to it and also when your water pump goes bad and your not anywhere near the drill and tap what are you going to do?
Valid points. Also drilling and tapping the WP is a lot of work lol. Here’s what I did (tapped a coupler and used a 1/8NPT barb):
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I really like that upper radiator hose. It handles the size difference in the water pump (1.25) and upper radiator neck (1.5) diameters well enough? Is it tight on one or loose on the other?
 
I really like that upper radiator hose. It handles the size difference in the water pump (1.25) and upper radiator neck (1.5) diameters well enough? Is it tight on one or loose on the other?
It’s a 1.25” hose and works perfect. The WP neck has a really big barb so it kinda evens out well. Just use a little silicon lube
 
I also didn't know how much OEM parts for these things are worth... Sold the original radio and steering wheel for much more than I'd have thought. Anyone need a 2F or 2F accessories? lol
I may need ac bracket tensioner thing a bob think i may have a lead on one already but jist in case.
 
Looking great! How did you install the factory FJ60 water temp sensor in the LS1 block? did you get an adapter? Which one?
 
Haven’t done it yet, but it’s my understanding that you can re-tap it and put it in the back of the ls head
The LS1 motors run at around 210 degrees. The 2F runs cooler. There is a delta between the two motors....
 
The LS1 motors run at around 210 degrees. The 2F runs cooler. There is a delta between the two motors....

I think he wants the sensor to match the factory gauge, which means using the factory sensor
 
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Haven’t done it yet, but it’s my understanding that you can re-tap it and put it in the back of the ls head



I took the FJ60 sensor, chucked the sensing end in a drill and sanded the threads off. Then tapped it to the size of the threads in the passenger rear of the head, which I can’t remember the size right now.

Edit, I think it was 12mm 1.5 pitch
 
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Question:
What did you do to connect the LS1 AC compressor to the Toyota AC hose?
 
My AC is apart right now due to compressor failure so I can get a pic. One hose just needed an adapter and the other I had an AC shop make.
 
My AC is apart right now due to compressor failure so I can get a pic. One hose just needed an adapter and the other I had an AC shop make.
Do you remember the adapter size? I am hunting down misc small parts today .
thanks
 
I dug through a stack of receipts just for you😊
Hopefully you can make something of the part numbers

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I dug through a stack of receipts just for you😊
Hopefully you can make something of the part numbers

View attachment 2121430
So... I ended up buying trans cooler adapters male end size m15 1.5 x 1/4” female To connect to the trans colder hoses...
 
Quick update for this weekend. Probably not gonna get much done on the exhaust like I’d planned as some stuff has come up, but I do at least have all the stiff sitting on the shelf at the shop. Going with a 2.5” 304 stainless system that I’ll be making from the headers back. I bought a Dynomax super turbo muffler too. The goal is for it to be OEM-ish sounding.
In other news, I figured out the throttle cable. Decided to keep the original LS cable and build a little bracket thingy that’ll bolt to the firewall. I also modified the original pedal to accept the Chevy cable end. I’ll post some installed photos once the paint dries.
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