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One more thing I wanted to add. Once I seperated the inner shaft from the outer birf, I was able to completely disassemble the rest of the birf (remove steel balls, outer cage and race) by hand. That is, i was able to twist/turn everything without the use of any other tool and remove it. Is the stock birf supposed to be like that ?
Well, when I got the shaft holes lined up right with the balls protruding, some of them did just fall with gravity as i turned the birf over several soft cloths.Yup. as long as the balls didn't just fall out...
Your response gives me some relief hehe. I was sitting at work today worried that I'd be shelling out new $ for birfs.OH, yeah. Those look good, no deep grooves on the inside of the birf. I would swap the birfs, meaning put the one that was on the long side on the short and vice versa.
I'm not confident your inner retaining rings will survive the reinstall. the one looks stretched. The trick is to use a ziptie to compress the inner retaining ring real tight when you force the inner axle back into the birf.
Good job so far.


Yes won't try reusing the c-clip. I didn't follow your remark above about "...after 8 error weeks they seem to get all pictures back." Sorry for my lack of comprehension but can you explain what you meant again? It went over my head.more exploded cage pictures in link below, after 8 error weeks they seem to get all pictures back and it should be fine tomorrow
hj60.freeforums.org • View topic - Birf-propeller-shaft-diff-yoke-flange-spider-snap