Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration

[dmaddox]

Finished the rear heater and all of the coolant lines and hoses - then went back and double checked everything.

I poured a gallon of 50/50 mix Toyota coolant in the block before buttoning up the last fitting. Then the radiator took about 2.5 gallons.

Before putting fuel in the tank, I cranked the engine for about 30 seconds (starter was a bit grumpy). . .and then I added about 2 gallons of fuel.

I cranked for about 15 seconds to prime the pump after that.



Then....with my wife filming, this happened.



You can see I stand there in absolute shock it fired....then it hit me. I AM VICTORIOUS!!!!!

The air pump almost immediately began chirping. I figured as much. Bearings are good but those air vanes were aging and brittle. So....will have to address that.

I then monitored oil pressure and temps and set the timing, 7 degrees BTDC, right on the "BB" and although FSM calls for 650rpm, 600 sounded amazing. No muffler, just a down pipe...but throttle response was spot on and all systems were a go (so far...). So cool.

I then used the recommendation (Thanks again) to use a rivnut on the missing seat mount...it worked perfectly.

Now I just need to do a rivnut on the fuel tank cover (last bolt). I replaced that whole section with new steel, which explains the missing captive nuts.

I then finished installing the rest of the seat brackets, the remainder of the heater, etc..:

What a day. Let me know if something is off that I can fix!

Cheers

 

[dmaddox]

one more showing the idle and the old green tag alternator works! You can really hear the air pump now. It will either grenade or the air vane will wear down. Not sure how to attack that one right now.

 

[OlYellr]

Fantastic Congratulations on your first start in 4 years.!!!

 

[RevISK]

So awesome!

I will always remember my first start, it was New Year’s Day after about 2 years of working on a truck that hadn’t run since’92. I’d been tinkering with it here and there and finally did “something” that made her happy. I literally dowsed the ceiling with my morning coffee when I threw my hands up in celebration.

Such an amazing feeling for sure.

It’s been really fun watching your progress, thanks for taking us along.

Ian

 

[dmaddox]

I received McMaster part number 4339T8:

It comes in 6 foot sections:

One thing I could tell immediately is that is was great quality and definitely VERY close to the OEM covering on the cabin heater lines.

Admittedly, I struggled with getting the hose on. So, I used a little of the tried and true "super lube", and took my time. Eventually it worked into place and will turn out beautifully.

Here you can see it side by side with the "other" foam I tried - not even a contest!

I'll finish it in the next few days and update with some finished photos - but thank you again for the recommendation!! Really looks much better, OEM in about every way, more durable and "rubber" like compared to that ridiculous foam pool noodle I tried to use.

Pretty slick. I'd only comment that getting this onto the longer lines that run to the rear heater (mine were in good shape, so I don't have to) would be quite the debacle and copious amounts of lube....lol. The heater lines, on the other hand, will have a good time. Lol. Kidding aside, the hose is just a tight fit. However, once installed is a spot on match to the original covering.

 

[Andrew S]

You can use compressed air to slightly inflate the insulation as you slide it over the metal tubes. Cap the far end of the metal line, and rig up a large enough air gun nozzle to mostly seal up against the insulation. Only takes a few psi worth of air. Much easier with two people, and it slides right on.

 

[pb4ugo]

I'm glad it worked out for you. At 1st I tried to use some lube, i think silicone. I thought I knew better. It was stubborn to say the least. Then i poured baby powder on my hands and down the hose and shook it, then cleaned and powdered the tubes. I had to work/twist it a little bit, but it wasn't difficult.

 

[OlYellr]

Thanks for the insights. My tubes arrive today and I pulled the long ones to the rear as a “test” last night.

 

[dmaddox]

Update - I tried all of the tips and tricks to get these to slide on. What ended up working was a combination of white lithium sprayed down the hose itself, and then NOT gripping and trying to force the tube on, but using a needle nose plier to gently pull one end, while pushing on the other (effectively letting it glide on). If it binds, I used the pointed air nozzle/air compressor to shoot a puff of air down to free it up and then continued to pull/push. What I found is that when trying to wrestle it, the more it hung on.

 

[pb4ugo]

On the long tubes I started on the firewall end because about 3/4 down the pipe it is exposed for a retaining clamp. The hose stretches while putting it on. When the leading end stops moving, I then went to the following end and slid more on and worked it towards the leading end. You'll be go back and forth.

 

[OlYellr]

Back and forth motion... got it!

I will try this tomorrow most likely - will see - I'm already in the camp if trying to flush and outhouse as they say here on the praire, then come from both ends and meet in the middle where the seam would be under the seat and few will know. Maybe it will be fine.

 

[whitey45]

That first start is awesome Dallas! A true testament to your mechanical aptitude, patience, determination, doing your homework! Always so fun when they light off and idle! I just got a 1980 fired up for the first time in 26 years! Carb swap and an oil change, purrs like a kitten!! Now for the first drive video!!!

 

[dmaddox]

A friend on the forums provided some information / documentation that the center console came with a thin felt/rubber liner. So, I found a rubberized felt and cut it to size, 9 3/4 by 3 3/4:

I rounded the corners to match the container shape:

Installing:

I then took a soft bristle brush and more "goop" hand cleaner to the defrost tubes and got them cleaned up and rinsed.

Installing the defrost tubes:

I ordered the "J" hook that affixes to the bottom of the heating duct - that will keep the defrost tube up and out of the way.

 

[dmaddox]

Today I bled the clutch (can you believe I backed it into the garage!?). I just need to bleed/set the brakes up to be confident enough to peel around the 'hood.

Which...by the way, I heard back from NY state that they accepted my vintage plates from 1978! So, I'll be able to run the original 1978 NY plates, cool.

I also found the correct "dual port" intake manifold vacuum fitting. That enabled me to connect the last of the unknown vacuum lines!

(also, was able to find a chunk of the original orange braided EGR hose, thought that was cool. Yes, most have a metal pipe with two chunks of this on either end.)

Then, I installed the 6mm rivnut on the last fuel tank cover bolt:

Happy to button that up.

Then I installed @ToyotaMatt alternator bracket - I will say, makes tension and settings a snap. Very slick. Thank's Matt.

 

[dmaddox]

Door assembly begins:

I then ran into a problem on the driver door. The handle was not smooth and wouldn't spring back down very well. Then I found this:

Damn.

Then....with the passenger door operating SO nicely and smoothly....the driver door was a disaster. First, the Taiwan handle...then the latch is about 1/2" low on the tub. Even adjusting it as high as I can. Not sure how to fix this so the door and the latch line up.......grrrrrrr

 

[OlYellr]

This is great stuff

I may have missed it in the previous pages - how are the door hinges - bushing shot? would make it sag. I a) doubt you missed that b) swinging in the dark c) you might be able to unscrew the bolts from hinge to door have someone lift the door and someone tighten the bolts back up?

 

[dmaddox]

Yes, you're spot on @OlYellr - What happened was I fitted the doors when I didn't have the body fully tightened down, so when I snugged the body down to the frame that throws off the doors.

I am trying to think of ways I can make this work without having to chip the paint on the door bolts. Loosening the door bolts will inevitably chip off the paint, as I painted the doors ON the truck like they did at the factory. Ugh.....

I've already tried to adjust the striker all the way up, and that gets me about 1/3 of an inch within where I need to be.

 

[locklaw]

Yes, you're spot on @OlYellr - What happened was I fitted the doors when I didn't have the body fully tightened down, so when I snugged the body down to the frame that throws off the doors.

I am trying to think of ways I can make this work without having to chip the paint on the door bolts. Loosening the door bolts will inevitably chip off the paint, as I painted the doors ON the truck like they did at the factory. Ugh.....

I've already tried to adjust the striker all the way up, and that gets me about 1/3 of an inch within where I need to be.

It will not be fun but you could shim the door hinge where it mounts inside the cab either under the dash or hopefully rather at the lower mounting to force the catch and latch to align.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Yes, you're spot on @OlYellr - What happened was I fitted the doors when I didn't have the body fully tightened down, so when I snugged the body down to the frame that throws off the doors.

I am trying to think of ways I can make this work without having to chip the paint on the door bolts. Loosening the door bolts will inevitably chip off the paint, as I painted the doors ON the truck like they did at the factory. Ugh.....

I've already tried to adjust the striker all the way up, and that gets me about 1/3 of an inch within where I need to be.

This is great stuff

I may have missed it in the previous pages - how are the door hinges - bushing shot? would make it sag. I a) doubt you missed that b) swinging in the dark c) you might be able to unscrew the bolts from hinge to door have someone lift the door and someone tighten the bolts back up?

@cruisermatt @choesn1


- suggestion mr. 1978 Dallas :

- carefully remove the center section / tube

- use each NOT flat SHiM Appropriately .....

- below is FSM Paper Print Media 411 jis-jdm-jazz ,

- use it / do NOT let it use you .....


- ok ..........

yes yes ..yea ..this is a 8/80-1984 40 series body FSM ..... but you need 8/80-later help here .....

- first these :

 

[ToyotaMatt]