Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
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- Thread starter
- #1,122
A few projects this morning before I started on the front seats.
Gear in place for the jack and tool kit:
Found that "J" hook for the defrost tube:
Starting with the seat bottoms:
More subpar SOR instructions. I've been collecting these over the years, too:
Sun really helped heat up the covers.
I will explain in the next post why there is wire here.
Gear in place for the jack and tool kit:
Found that "J" hook for the defrost tube:
Starting with the seat bottoms:
More subpar SOR instructions. I've been collecting these over the years, too:
Sun really helped heat up the covers.
I will explain in the next post why there is wire here.
- Thread starter
- #1,123
On the SOR foam for the seat bottom, there is no built in wire rod. So, I used a chunk of fuel line I had, ran the wire through the fuel rod inside the "pocket" where just the wire goes. This way, it pulls it all together. This is why I was holding it all in place in the above photo with wire.
I used plastic, as instructed so the cover has a barrier and slides:
My seat bottoms, while painted in two part epoxy, were not in that great of shape and sharp on the edges. I just used wire loom on the lip to protect the cover long term:
Pushing, pulling, tucking as you hog-ring around the rosy:
Done with the bottoms.
I used plastic, as instructed so the cover has a barrier and slides:
My seat bottoms, while painted in two part epoxy, were not in that great of shape and sharp on the edges. I just used wire loom on the lip to protect the cover long term:
Pushing, pulling, tucking as you hog-ring around the rosy:
Done with the bottoms.
- Thread starter
- #1,124
The seat backs are fairly self explanatory. Turn the cover inside out, start at the top and work your way down. At two points, the seat cover (front and back) needs to be hog ringed into place:
And the front:
Setting the seat back covers I painted two years ago on! I used that tiny eye glass screw driver to hunt for the screw holes and used the SOR seat back hardware kit:
I then used my thumb to find the head rest guides and an exacto knife to score them:
I then used a screw driver to align the guide with the internal tube:
Just about there!
And the front:
Setting the seat back covers I painted two years ago on! I used that tiny eye glass screw driver to hunt for the screw holes and used the SOR seat back hardware kit:
I then used my thumb to find the head rest guides and an exacto knife to score them:
I then used a screw driver to align the guide with the internal tube:
Just about there!
- Thread starter
- #1,125
Assembling the seats is a bit of a pain.
What I found was the easiest was to look under the seat bottom for the side bolt holes. Once you can see them, you can align the exacto knife and cut in.
Sorry for the crappy photo - but you can see the bolt hole, just barely. But...that is your huckleberry!
It is MUCH easier to start on the front bolt, use it to suck in the bracket....THEN start the rear bolt. Don't trash your hands trying to start the rear bolt.
The seat back bolts are much easier to find. You can see the bracket here:
It is easy to feel for the holes and exacto knife them out:
Easy to then bolt together.
I then leaned the seat back and installed the wire that allows you to scoot the seat forward and backward.
Done!
Pay no attention to the door panel, that will be an update for later (windows). I hope the wrinkles in the side of the passenger seat calm down a bit. Not sure what I can do there.
What I found was the easiest was to look under the seat bottom for the side bolt holes. Once you can see them, you can align the exacto knife and cut in.
Sorry for the crappy photo - but you can see the bolt hole, just barely. But...that is your huckleberry!
It is MUCH easier to start on the front bolt, use it to suck in the bracket....THEN start the rear bolt. Don't trash your hands trying to start the rear bolt.
The seat back bolts are much easier to find. You can see the bracket here:
It is easy to feel for the holes and exacto knife them out:
Easy to then bolt together.
I then leaned the seat back and installed the wire that allows you to scoot the seat forward and backward.
Done!
Pay no attention to the door panel, that will be an update for later (windows). I hope the wrinkles in the side of the passenger seat calm down a bit. Not sure what I can do there.
- Thread starter
- #1,126
Repainted my two jacks. School bus yellow - another win from the wscbill archives. What a weekend. Another worthy wrenching couple of days.
A 7H (August 77) and a 7L (December 77
)
A couple of great jacks I took all apart, cleaned, re-lubricated and reassembled:
Just need to clean up the overspray on the neck:
Until next time!
A 7H (August 77) and a 7L (December 77
)A couple of great jacks I took all apart, cleaned, re-lubricated and reassembled:
Just need to clean up the overspray on the neck:
Until next time!
Yes, another weekend of Dallas with his feet up, drinking sweet tea, letting his project moulder. Great job on all this - you got a lot done. It looks much more like a completed project now.
- Thread starter
- #1,129
Applied two more coats of "School Bus Yellow" and allowed them to dry all day today. Not perfect, but snappy enough for me!
Something I purchased from a friend of mine that I have been very excited about - a NOS 1978 tool kit. The tools are still in their wrappers, with Japanese inspection stickers. All unused!
The bubble wrap isn't part of the kit, obviously. I just have it to protect the jack handle (original paint). Fun stuff!!
Something I purchased from a friend of mine that I have been very excited about - a NOS 1978 tool kit. The tools are still in their wrappers, with Japanese inspection stickers. All unused!
The bubble wrap isn't part of the kit, obviously. I just have it to protect the jack handle (original paint). Fun stuff!!
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Those jacks turned out great...a satisfying small project to do. Thanks for sharing the images of the tools and tool bag. Your truck has turned into a museum of NOS parts!
- Thread starter
- #1,131
I used a small 3x3" square adhesive foam to protect the cruiser side of the jack....not sure if Toyota ever put anything between there? WHat I put in there could easily be removed, but provides some protection:
I'm also "somewhat" concerned the hook on the tool kit band will somehow rub against the canvas bag and ruin it. I may put a small pieces of hose or something over the hook so it doesn't damage the tool bag. Let me know your thoughts.
I'm also "somewhat" concerned the hook on the tool kit band will somehow rub against the canvas bag and ruin it. I may put a small pieces of hose or something over the hook so it doesn't damage the tool bag. Let me know your thoughts.
Ocd at high rpm! But it will turn out an epic, correct restoration that is very hard to come by now days, most cruiser restoration’s are done here on mud, while not ( professionally done?) they are way better(imo) as the owners are passionate and want to get it RIGHT!!! Soooo many pro restos that are soo wrong it makes my brain hurt!! Quick flip, make it look great for 20 minutes after the buyer drives off
Dallas, if this doesn’t bring 80 to 100k this market is confused and definitely uninformed! Keep up the great work and cheers buddy, you deserve it!!( oh and you have a bitchen 964!
Dallas, if this doesn’t bring 80 to 100k this market is confused and definitely uninformed! Keep up the great work and cheers buddy, you deserve it!!( oh and you have a bitchen 964!
405
GOLD Star
Looks like you are on the home stretch now! Really love following along with your build and the details you put in to everything. It's motivated me to look closely at my restoration to get everything just right.
- Thread starter
- #1,134
Door hinge stops. I'm probably doing something wrong, but the kit I purchased (I think from city racer, but I don't want to throw them under the bus, because I forgot where I got it). The pin is too short. A small but rewarding project.
Nothing even protrudes out of the bottom. There's also no gap around the nylon bushings.
I found this at my hardware store:
Installed and marked where I needed to cut it:
Cut them:
Rounded the edges and then wire wheeled them smooth:
These pins will now work perfect.
Nothing even protrudes out of the bottom. There's also no gap around the nylon bushings.
I found this at my hardware store:
Installed and marked where I needed to cut it:
Cut them:
Rounded the edges and then wire wheeled them smooth:
These pins will now work perfect.
- Thread starter
- #1,135
Buttoning up a few loose ends. Then the hood and top will be all I have left. I finished the door handles and installed the door cards with new hardware.
Going to install weatherstrips on the doors potentially tomorrow on both front doors.
I also found and cleaned up the heater line kick cover:
I then started it up and drove it around the block! I received the registration from the state, so I'm legal. I'm hoping in the next week or two to drop if off at the exhaust shop for them to build out the exhaust.
After the drive, here is a quick walk around I took. So proud! Great throttle response, good power. I need to bleed / adjust the brakes again, a bit spongy. I also need ot center the steering wheel. Otherwise, was a nice cool drive!
Going to install weatherstrips on the doors potentially tomorrow on both front doors.
I also found and cleaned up the heater line kick cover:
I then started it up and drove it around the block! I received the registration from the state, so I'm legal. I'm hoping in the next week or two to drop if off at the exhaust shop for them to build out the exhaust.
After the drive, here is a quick walk around I took. So proud! Great throttle response, good power. I need to bleed / adjust the brakes again, a bit spongy. I also need ot center the steering wheel. Otherwise, was a nice cool drive!
Dallas, those pins are for early doors, 73 and below. Maybe city racer has them mixed up?
- Thread starter
- #1,139
I found what I bought:
cruisercorps.com
Looks like SOR has the 126-14-kit but is 26$ a door. 70$ to my door or more with both doors and shipping. Get outta town.
Door Pin Limiter Rebuild Kit FJ40, FJ45, BJ 1975-1984
Fits 1/1975 – 10/1984 FJ40/45, BJ & HJ Series - This kit will allow your doors to open & close properly again!
cruisercorps.com
Looks like SOR has the 126-14-kit but is 26$ a door. 70$ to my door or more with both doors and shipping. Get outta town.
