Green Bean
SILVER Star
Brilliant work as usual.
Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #1,062
While I wait for vacuum line solutions on the two loose ends, finished the parking brake and throttle:
Now that the (most of) the vacuum is done, I wrapped up the rest of the wiring and used the oem-style loop hold-down clips.
Now that the (most of) the vacuum is done, I wrapped up the rest of the wiring and used the oem-style loop hold-down clips.
- Thread starter
- #1,063
So I think I have a way of solving the "no port" at the bottom of the carb - in just trying to find a dual output manifold vacuum fitting. Would that work? Kinda hard to see, but circled here:
Then, I just have to figure out where this vacuum line goes - which is nowhere to be found in the emissions manual. Maybe I'll check the 2F engine manual to see if I can find a home for it.
Then, I just have to figure out where this vacuum line goes - which is nowhere to be found in the emissions manual. Maybe I'll check the 2F engine manual to see if I can find a home for it.
- Thread starter
- #1,064
Heater work - was pretty gross.
Brasso and some steel wool:
I tried to find thin factory foam. This was the closest the hardware store had, 14mm id. (was more like 17....)
Hose bits:
Inside the cab:
Engine bay:
I had to order 20, 25mm stainless clamps from city racer. Crazy how many unions there are.
Next I'll add the rest of the heater pieces, duct, etc... once I find a few parts and pieces. Giant Lego project....
Brasso and some steel wool:
I tried to find thin factory foam. This was the closest the hardware store had, 14mm id. (was more like 17....)
Hose bits:
Inside the cab:
Engine bay:
I had to order 20, 25mm stainless clamps from city racer. Crazy how many unions there are.
Next I'll add the rest of the heater pieces, duct, etc... once I find a few parts and pieces. Giant Lego project....
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Where did you mount your 86530-35020 Maruko Keihoki horn relay? I do not see it yet within your engine bay?
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
The cowl harness hold down plastic straps come in a variety as shown. I was not certain how they attach to “hold down” the harness.
Based on your images, were there original holes on the inside for these clamps or did you drill to accommodate?
Based on your images, were there original holes on the inside for these clamps or did you drill to accommodate?
- Thread starter
- #1,067
re: Holes for clamps. (I used 10521) those are factory holes for the clamps! Just had to pop them in.
re: Horn relay. Am I missing something? Unless someone can correct me...the 1978 FJ40 didn't use one. I have one new that I purchased thinking I would need one, but my wiring diagram doesn't call for one that I can find. However, @Ackcruisers I see you have a 1976 in your signature and I'll assume that is your blue cruiser. Here is the wiring diagram snippet from a 1976:
re: Horn relay. Am I missing something? Unless someone can correct me...the 1978 FJ40 didn't use one. I have one new that I purchased thinking I would need one, but my wiring diagram doesn't call for one that I can find. However, @Ackcruisers I see you have a 1976 in your signature and I'll assume that is your blue cruiser. Here is the wiring diagram snippet from a 1976:
Dallas, I think these will help answer your vacuum line questions. I'd like to trade you for a good photo of the the bracket holding the VCV, mine is bent way out of shape...
The large vacuum line from the VCV goes to what I think is the carb insulator/spacer between the carb body and the intake manifold. It's filthy so I'm not positive. My hose is red, it may be the same size/material hose as the ignition distributor breather hose that connects to the firewall. I believe you should have two ports at that location below the carb, the other is for your mystery vacuum line from the carb mounted vacuum distribution block.
As always, if you need other photos just ask.
Andrew
The large vacuum line from the VCV goes to what I think is the carb insulator/spacer between the carb body and the intake manifold. It's filthy so I'm not positive. My hose is red, it may be the same size/material hose as the ignition distributor breather hose that connects to the firewall. I believe you should have two ports at that location below the carb, the other is for your mystery vacuum line from the carb mounted vacuum distribution block.
As always, if you need other photos just ask.
Andrew
- Thread starter
- #1,069
Thank you, @Andrew S you've been a great help. Really clears some things up. I have a more modern carb insulator, which explains why I am missing those ports, but I have a plan B.
I also learned in THIS post, that the vacuum distribution block on the front of the carb is called a HIC valve and has to do with hot air handling.
And for the VCV missing line... I ordered/found a dual port manifold vacuum port, so one will be PCV the other will be from the VCV that I have disconnected. Thanks again, SOLVED!
Now, for the bracket, I have a spare I took some photos of for you - let me know if this works:
I also learned in THIS post, that the vacuum distribution block on the front of the carb is called a HIC valve and has to do with hot air handling.
And for the VCV missing line... I ordered/found a dual port manifold vacuum port, so one will be PCV the other will be from the VCV that I have disconnected. Thanks again, SOLVED!
Now, for the bracket, I have a spare I took some photos of for you - let me know if this works:
Yes, that helps out a lot. I thought the bracket should be straight, but never dug into it until seeing yours. I think I need a new, longer hose if I straighten the bracket, that's probably why it was bent in the first place. 
- Thread starter
- #1,071
Let me know if you want the bracket photographed above. You're welcome to it. I also have some spare 5.5mm vacuum hose if you tell me how much you need I'll see if I can cover you.
Where did we get those emissions related hoses?
The 3.5mm hose is available in several different lengths if you don't need 2.6m:
| 300mm hose, 3.5mm ID | 90999-92002 |
| 600mm hose, 3.5mm ID | 90999-92003 |
| 950mm hose, 3.5mm ID | 90999-92004 |
| 1300mm hose, 3.5mm ID | 90999-92006 |
| 1650mm hose, 3.5mm ID | 90999-92007 |
| 2600mm hose, 3.5mm ID | 90999-92008 |
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Appreciate the information. After looking at the wiring diagram for your 78, it shows no relay. Other sources show the horn relay 86530-35020 was used from 1969 - 1980. In USA, it appears to be used 11/69- 1977. I am going to school on your 1978 electrical work and should have consulted the diagram before posting!
Thanks for the confirmation on the holes for the harness hold down straps. They were a mystery to me. I see a variety were used within the engine bay including 90463-10355, 90463-10521 & 90463-10336.
- Thread starter
- #1,077
@Ackcruisers Good morning! I hope you didn't feel like I was trying to correct or "school" you :-(. Apologies if it was received that way! You've been pointing out some great details and now having just used the "90463-10521" clamp, I'm wondering what / if I should have used some of the others. I did notice in my original harness those blueish clamps.
It took me a good 4-5 minutes to figure out how they even work, but once you see how they come together to form a spade that pushes into the holes, it makes sense. I will say, 10521 (I think the largest of the clamps), it was a very tight fit in some of the thicker areas of the harness. Needless to say, it beats the look of just a black zip tie - having an OEM clamp in there adds a nice touch.
Last, as you've pointed out....(and having worked on multiple cruisers for nearly 20 years)...I am constantly learning more and more about these things. Now, I have never "restored" one as proper as I am trying to do with this one. Any other cruiser, I can confidently say that I was using the term "restored" broadly. Yes....I essentially just cleaned them up. Zip ties, whatever hardware, parts that got the job done.
Restoring something is really tough - and I am even taking short cuts on this cruiser, mainly because of my cramped work space, limited funds and amount of time it takes to do it perfectly. I can say with a fairly high amount of confidence; to properly restore a late model FJ40 back to factory spec is upwards of 70K. All respect to FJ Company, ICON or whoever else.... isn't restoring them....they're building an "FJ Experience" of some flavor. It also has soured my view of eBay, Facebook marketplace and Craigslist when I see "freshly restored" FJ4X's coming from central and South America.....restored? Now, I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, because even my cruiser is far from perfect and shortcuts are taken. Point is, to restore something is so broadly used. We just do the best we can (or in some cases minimum investment for maximum return) so that we can enjoy the journey and the destination.
I hope we are all having fun, I sure am (78% of the time....ha ha ha).
</coffee rant>
It took me a good 4-5 minutes to figure out how they even work, but once you see how they come together to form a spade that pushes into the holes, it makes sense. I will say, 10521 (I think the largest of the clamps), it was a very tight fit in some of the thicker areas of the harness. Needless to say, it beats the look of just a black zip tie - having an OEM clamp in there adds a nice touch.
Last, as you've pointed out....(and having worked on multiple cruisers for nearly 20 years)...I am constantly learning more and more about these things. Now, I have never "restored" one as proper as I am trying to do with this one. Any other cruiser, I can confidently say that I was using the term "restored" broadly. Yes....I essentially just cleaned them up. Zip ties, whatever hardware, parts that got the job done.
Restoring something is really tough - and I am even taking short cuts on this cruiser, mainly because of my cramped work space, limited funds and amount of time it takes to do it perfectly. I can say with a fairly high amount of confidence; to properly restore a late model FJ40 back to factory spec is upwards of 70K. All respect to FJ Company, ICON or whoever else.... isn't restoring them....they're building an "FJ Experience" of some flavor. It also has soured my view of eBay, Facebook marketplace and Craigslist when I see "freshly restored" FJ4X's coming from central and South America.....restored? Now, I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, because even my cruiser is far from perfect and shortcuts are taken. Point is, to restore something is so broadly used. We just do the best we can (or in some cases minimum investment for maximum return) so that we can enjoy the journey and the destination.
I hope we are all having fun, I sure am (78% of the time....ha ha ha).
</coffee rant>
I love the attention to detail. Fyi, heater pipe insulation can be found at McMaster Carr. It's EPDM 3/4 OD 1/2 ID, it comes in 6ft lengths, you'll need 2 sections and some baby powder to help slide it on.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
I am going to school vs being schooled. Sometimes being “schooled” is how I learn. Ih8mud for me has been a bit of both. I’ve not yet worked on a 1978 40 and it’s interesting how many subtle electrical changes were made between 1976 and 1978.
My 1976 40 was purchased on BaT after I was the highest bidder. I was at a bar, in Portland Maine and after two beers I lobbed in a bid during the final minutes. What typically happens is many bids occur during the final countdown but in my case…crickets.
The listing said 1976 “Restored” FJ40. I received the truck and my journey to start the real restoration process began. I found so many things wrong but fortunately, the body was done well. I was so frustrated with BaT that I wrote them a letter and it changed their policy towards allowing sellers to use the word “Restored” on their listing. They also returned a portion of my buyer fee. My truck was Lot #25661 on BaT. From 11/29/19 to now, I have not seen the words “Restored” on any FJ40 listing.
I’ve learned a lot over these past 4 years… some schooling and getting schooled. The one thing that stands out is the tremendous amount of time and money it takes to do what you’re doing. In 2019, I did not have the experience to know why one FJ40 would sell for $100k and another for $30k. Now I know.
I’m enjoying watching you overcome so many set backs and march forward.
My 1976 40 was purchased on BaT after I was the highest bidder. I was at a bar, in Portland Maine and after two beers I lobbed in a bid during the final minutes. What typically happens is many bids occur during the final countdown but in my case…crickets.
The listing said 1976 “Restored” FJ40. I received the truck and my journey to start the real restoration process began. I found so many things wrong but fortunately, the body was done well. I was so frustrated with BaT that I wrote them a letter and it changed their policy towards allowing sellers to use the word “Restored” on their listing. They also returned a portion of my buyer fee. My truck was Lot #25661 on BaT. From 11/29/19 to now, I have not seen the words “Restored” on any FJ40 listing.
I’ve learned a lot over these past 4 years… some schooling and getting schooled. The one thing that stands out is the tremendous amount of time and money it takes to do what you’re doing. In 2019, I did not have the experience to know why one FJ40 would sell for $100k and another for $30k. Now I know.
I’m enjoying watching you overcome so many set backs and march forward.
- Thread starter
- #1,080
Thank you @pb4ugo - I just ordered the correct foam so it doesn't look like I used pool noodles to insulate the heater lines. McMaster part number 4339T8.
The hard lines to the rear heater are good. I just ordered one 6 foot piece to do the small elbows at the front heater.
@Ackcruisers - great post and discussion. I did the same thing on a 1968 Porsche 911. Bid, and then crickets. I thought..."crap...now what?" In the end it ended up being a win. However, getting the car wasn't what I expected either.
From what I can see your FJ40 is awesome (and thank you for saving likely 100's of others on BaT) and you'll continue to do it justice. Next time, 3rd beer is on me....maybe we can keep each other from bidding....then again maybe not!
The hard lines to the rear heater are good. I just ordered one 6 foot piece to do the small elbows at the front heater.
@Ackcruisers - great post and discussion. I did the same thing on a 1968 Porsche 911. Bid, and then crickets. I thought..."crap...now what?" In the end it ended up being a win. However, getting the car wasn't what I expected either.
From what I can see your FJ40 is awesome (and thank you for saving likely 100's of others on BaT) and you'll continue to do it justice. Next time, 3rd beer is on me....maybe we can keep each other from bidding....then again maybe not!