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Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
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- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Threads
- 963
- Messages
- 19,526
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Threads
- 963
- Messages
- 19,526
oh ......btw
I stopped by OAK ISLAND
after work ….
I will donate any of these finishes / KING MIDAS to you Dallas …
I think @Ackcruisers , needed a fuel line runner hook or 2 ….
Behold : Bore-Hole 78 has been discovered …. ……
.
what garden shaft .........
.
I stopped by OAK ISLAND
after work ….I will donate any of these finishes / KING MIDAS to you Dallas …
I think @Ackcruisers , needed a fuel line runner hook or 2 ….
Behold : Bore-Hole 78 has been discovered …. ……
.
what garden shaft .........
.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #1,104
Thank you @ToyotaMatt , very generous. Please give @Ackcruisers priority as he asked first.
I’ll tackle the door today and try to get the driver side aligned. I ordered new Toyota door handles on both sides so I don’t want to finish the doors yet, until I get the new handles.
After I align the door I plan on a combo of body work and brakes today…..feel free to stop by if you’re in the New York area. Lol!
I’ll tackle the door today and try to get the driver side aligned. I ordered new Toyota door handles on both sides so I don’t want to finish the doors yet, until I get the new handles.
After I align the door I plan on a combo of body work and brakes today…..feel free to stop by if you’re in the New York area. Lol!
- Thread starter
- #1,105
Unlike Instagram or other social media. . . I don't just post the perfect swim suit holding a drink photo. I also post the "forgot to suck in my gut" photo.
In short, I had the idea - as I've assembled several in the past, to NOT tighten anything down as you fit all the panels. Then, when the fit is right, snug it all down. A rather rookie yet big mistake I made was to fail to tighten down the tub as part of this initial fitment. I snugged everything else down, but I failed/forgot to cinch down the tub.
Later in the process, they were tightened. Months later, during assembly this didn't pose a problem until attempting to adjust and close the driver door. Luckily the passenger has plenty of space, but the driver with the striker full "up" was about 1/2" off. As suggested I tried to adjust using the internal (pain in the butt to reach) M8's, and that bought me 1/8" but not nearly enough to match the latch to the striker.
So, I had no other choice but to loosen.....and chip....the door bolts. I have plenty of touch up paint, but still I'm very upset at my stupid mistake.
So I will touch up using base coat, let it cure and then wet sand smooth and then use a small brush to apply some clear. Not much else I can do...but show the photo with my gut hanging out......
The good news is that I was able to get away with just loosening the top 3.
Now to start on the body work of the rest of the crap. Sigh. I hate body work.
In short, I had the idea - as I've assembled several in the past, to NOT tighten anything down as you fit all the panels. Then, when the fit is right, snug it all down. A rather rookie yet big mistake I made was to fail to tighten down the tub as part of this initial fitment. I snugged everything else down, but I failed/forgot to cinch down the tub.
Later in the process, they were tightened. Months later, during assembly this didn't pose a problem until attempting to adjust and close the driver door. Luckily the passenger has plenty of space, but the driver with the striker full "up" was about 1/2" off. As suggested I tried to adjust using the internal (pain in the butt to reach) M8's, and that bought me 1/8" but not nearly enough to match the latch to the striker.
So, I had no other choice but to loosen.....and chip....the door bolts. I have plenty of touch up paint, but still I'm very upset at my stupid mistake.
So I will touch up using base coat, let it cure and then wet sand smooth and then use a small brush to apply some clear. Not much else I can do...but show the photo with my gut hanging out......
The good news is that I was able to get away with just loosening the top 3.
Now to start on the body work of the rest of the crap. Sigh. I hate body work.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
I admire your labor of love - I get it
Nothing wrong showing your "flabdominals"
Nothing wrong showing your "flabdominals"
- Thread starter
- #1,107
Original floor mat cleaned up nice. I have a few small tears/holes but overall I'd give it an 8/10.
I've been hunting (thanks, you know who you are) for good horn buttons that actually have the horns on them. Hard to find. If you have one or two full horns, hit me up
Took the 964 out last night to go get take out. Man, she's dialed in. 993 Turbo brakes, RS uprights, 993 hydraulics, tuned suspension and engine management. Air cooled raw analog fun. FAR from today's big horsepower cars, but it weights under 3000 pounds.
Today was sanding and prepping the hard top sides and rails, spare tire carrier. Epoxy DTM primer. Crappy primer gun leaks just in front of the trigger. Was a 20 dollar gun and will be tossed when this project is done.
PO cut the poles off the sides, but I have a same size tubing I am going to use a small set screw to install. I'm also tempted to just leave them off but fear a structural / rigidity issue. Toyota put them on there for a reason.
I've been hunting (thanks, you know who you are) for good horn buttons that actually have the horns on them. Hard to find. If you have one or two full horns, hit me up
Took the 964 out last night to go get take out. Man, she's dialed in. 993 Turbo brakes, RS uprights, 993 hydraulics, tuned suspension and engine management. Air cooled raw analog fun. FAR from today's big horsepower cars, but it weights under 3000 pounds.
Today was sanding and prepping the hard top sides and rails, spare tire carrier. Epoxy DTM primer. Crappy primer gun leaks just in front of the trigger. Was a 20 dollar gun and will be tossed when this project is done.
PO cut the poles off the sides, but I have a same size tubing I am going to use a small set screw to install. I'm also tempted to just leave them off but fear a structural / rigidity issue. Toyota put them on there for a reason.
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Threads
- 963
- Messages
- 19,526
Original floor mat cleaned up nice. I have a few small tears/holes but overall I'd give it an 8/10.
View attachment 3406103
I've been hunting (thanks, you know who you are) for good horn buttons that actually have the horns on them. Hard to find. If you have one or two full horns, hit me up
View attachment 3406102
Took the 964 out last night to go get take out. Man, she's dialed in. 993 Turbo brakes, RS uprights, 993 hydraulics, tuned suspension and engine management. Air cooled raw analog fun. FAR from today's big horsepower cars, but it weights under 3000 pounds.
View attachment 3406104
Today was sanding and prepping the hard top sides and rails, spare tire carrier. Epoxy DTM primer. Crappy primer gun leaks just in front of the trigger. Was a 20 dollar gun and will be tossed when this project is done.
View attachment 3406108
View attachment 3406109
View attachment 3406110
PO cut the poles off the sides, but I have a same size tubing I am going to use a small set screw to install. I'm also tempted to just leave them off but fear a structural / rigidity issue. Toyota put them on there for a reason.
TOYOTA T.S.B. for PDI and PIO options 78-124
= NO wash-bay-silicon -all on any rubber floor mats or pedal pads
- Thread starter
- #1,110
Going through the photos of the original for-sale ad. Can't believe it made it from Kentucky to Long Island (barely, died a few times).
Before:
Amazes me how well the interior photographed for the for sale ad. If you only knew what you can't see!
Before:
Amazes me how well the interior photographed for the for sale ad. If you only knew what you can't see!
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Amazing transformation!
- Thread starter
- #1,112
What it looked like day 1. I must have been as high as the lift, as I've seen incredible deals for 78 mustard cruisers since then. I feel we all need to be ripped off in one way or another in our lives, right? Ha! Anymore, I just giggle at the "all original" and "only trail repairs". Over the course of the restoration, that was the joke..."find more trail repairs?" He he he.....yes, 7 laters of it!
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Totally agree - when I look back (- ha! Like back was that long ago 
- ) after reading this, I would not pay what I did for my rig as advertised. Kind of like those home inspection.
But you commit and don’t look back, take pride, and hold yourself accountable to your values, dreams, resources, and needs to do your best at that moment.
I digress.
- ) after reading this, I would not pay what I did for my rig as advertised. Kind of like those home inspection. But you commit and don’t look back, take pride, and hold yourself accountable to your values, dreams, resources, and needs to do your best at that moment.
I digress.
- Thread starter
- #1,115
Speaking of eye spy.... @ToyotaMatt spotted my ignition switch was white, noting Toyota never created a white capped ignition switch. Purchasing one of Matt's upgraded factory switches shows the difference:
Also, a thank you to @Dallas Todd - helping me source a good 1978 steering column clam-shell with the correct ignition lock delete plug. Thanks!
Also, a thank you to @Dallas Todd - helping me source a good 1978 steering column clam-shell with the correct ignition lock delete plug. Thanks!
RevISK
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #1,117
New screws for the roll bar pads. 10 are needed:
In a cramped garage (raining outside) camera angles are tricky.....
Finished the wiring on the driver side for the light switch (new bulb for the "LIGHTS" knob to illuminate), then installed the defrost tube:
I dropped a screw, you normal garage guys can just pick it up. I have to pretzel through gaps:
In a cramped garage (raining outside) camera angles are tricky.....
Finished the wiring on the driver side for the light switch (new bulb for the "LIGHTS" knob to illuminate), then installed the defrost tube:
I dropped a screw, you normal garage guys can just pick it up. I have to pretzel through gaps:
- Thread starter
- #1,119
Tackling the jump seats. SOR your instructions are horrific, please update. 
Laying out hardware (you have to go back to SOR.com to figure out what bolt goes where....).
Don't worry - those springs and gasket maker are for a corpse I'm trying to hide and are not a part of this project.
Started by installing the canvas strap keep and rubber feet:
I then fitted the SOR foam into the cover and set it on the bottom half. The bottom half uses a nylon rope system to pull tight, which you use the wire to fish.
You have to fish the back flap last, once you the cover is resting in place. Then, with six arms tie it as tight as you can. After it was tight, I started at the top and bottom centers with the SOR jump seat screw kit:
Then, moving opposites around the seat:
The top/back was a bit more tricky and I couldn't find anything on the web where someone documented the SOR version of the cover. Essentially you have to cut (and curl the ends) four pieces of wire that hide inside each side of the corner. Then, repeat the process. The SOR instructions just made this seem much more of a NASA process than it is.
In the photo above, there are four pieces of wire, one in each "tab" if you will, curled on each end. You use it to anchor the screws. This is a different system than others I have seen (like CCOT version).
For the accuracy factor, I had these made from a fellow mudder, which exactly replace the early 78 strap.
Laying out hardware (you have to go back to SOR.com to figure out what bolt goes where....).
Don't worry - those springs and gasket maker are for a corpse I'm trying to hide and are not a part of this project.
Started by installing the canvas strap keep and rubber feet:
I then fitted the SOR foam into the cover and set it on the bottom half. The bottom half uses a nylon rope system to pull tight, which you use the wire to fish.
You have to fish the back flap last, once you the cover is resting in place. Then, with six arms tie it as tight as you can. After it was tight, I started at the top and bottom centers with the SOR jump seat screw kit:
Then, moving opposites around the seat:
The top/back was a bit more tricky and I couldn't find anything on the web where someone documented the SOR version of the cover. Essentially you have to cut (and curl the ends) four pieces of wire that hide inside each side of the corner. Then, repeat the process. The SOR instructions just made this seem much more of a NASA process than it is.
In the photo above, there are four pieces of wire, one in each "tab" if you will, curled on each end. You use it to anchor the screws. This is a different system than others I have seen (like CCOT version).
For the accuracy factor, I had these made from a fellow mudder, which exactly replace the early 78 strap.
- Thread starter
- #1,120
continued:
One seat down!
Seats done!
A fellow mudder, in conjunction with the research by @wscbill some examples of the rear seat stamps arrived. (Link to that thread)
My wife has a small die stamp set - this was the closest I could find. I stamped with my personal date of origin. lol. I love it. Makes the seats special.
Used a little rubber cement, got it nice and tacky:
Very happy with how they turned out.
One seat down!
Seats done!
A fellow mudder, in conjunction with the research by @wscbill some examples of the rear seat stamps arrived. (Link to that thread)
My wife has a small die stamp set - this was the closest I could find. I stamped with my personal date of origin. lol. I love it. Makes the seats special.
Used a little rubber cement, got it nice and tacky:
Very happy with how they turned out.