Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration

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@Coolerman has been pulling through with some great quality wire that I can repair my harness with. Most of the damage done over the years seems to be with the ignition system / alternator (passenger fender). Highly recommend Mark's wire.
 
The OEM battery box will hold almost anything, size-wise. Typical sizes are Group 24 (or 24F - has terminals reversed) or Group 27 (longer, bigger). I found a Group 27 at Sam's Club that was as cheap as a 24, but had better specs.

Toyota used to sell 'True Start' batteries, but hasn't (at my dealer) for years. I would get a non-sealed (add water type) battery, if possible. I don't think you'll find any historic-looking Toyota batteries styled after the 1970s models put in the truck when new.
 
Looking for advice on what battery to acquire. What group/size and what brand. Silly question, but does Toyota sell a branded battery?

Also - looking for advice on the negative terminal/cable.

Keep in mind, going for restoration. So any Toyota>Denso>Made in Japan options would be cool.
I’ve made my own neg/pos battery cables, super easy using OFC copper wire 2 awg. and Toyota terminals. Amazon has premade OFC copper cables. This is my AGM group 34 with a battery cover to look a little more vintage. My battery tray is 10.75". @ToyotaMatt sells ground kits too.

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I had to flatten the sides on the battery tray years ago to except a larger battery in my 68. As for a OEM battery I wouldn't wasted my time. Believe it was my 100 series I bought a Toyota replacement battery. It wasn't anything special. Pretty sure it was just a domestic battery with Toyota label. OEM was a Panasonic as I remember. May have been some other brand but was from Japan. 100 series been gone for almost ten years now but doubt you can get a replacement battery like what comes in a Toyota built in Japan.
 
Good point. I'm thinking about just getting a plane jane looking battery and tossing a label on it. . .or just living in the reality that some of the consumables (tires, batteries, electrical components, etc..) will just have to be a modern option. You guy's won't judge me, will you - ha!!

I was trying to be incredibly correct in the beginning - and because I am now getting hungry to enjoy the cruiser, I am making compromises. I figure if it bothers me/others enough in the future I can swap out that item if there's a more correct option at that point.
 
Looking for advice on what battery to acquire. What group/size and what brand. Silly question, but does Toyota sell a branded battery?

Also - looking for advice on the negative terminal/cable.

Keep in mind, going for restoration. So any Toyota>Denso>Made in Japan options would be cool.
So far, I have been pleased with this Battery: DEKA 9A34 (Rockauto 08/09/2021)($188.68)
 
Looking for advice on what battery to acquire. What group/size and what brand. Silly question, but does Toyota sell a branded battery?

Also - looking for advice on the negative terminal/cable.

Keep in mind, going for restoration. So any Toyota>Denso>Made in Japan options would be cool.

I got mine from Mr T. It's a TruStart, 00544-24060-575. Or 00544-24F60-575 if you want the + on the other side.
 
Driver engine bay (for the most part) is wired - now I am working on the passenger side.

I have one straggler I can't figure out where it goes. There are two ground wires on the bottom of the coil/ignitor pack, one is 14 awg and the other 16/18.

These:

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The thicker wires ties into the harness and routes into a cluster of WB at the firewall. The thinner of the two - where does it go?

It's just cut and hanging at the firewall:

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I would doubt Toyota would double ground the ignitor pack - but this ground must run somewhere, anyone have any ideas or an intact factory 1978 FJ40 laying around to (within reason) trace it?

In the meantime, I'm going blind studying the wiring diagram. My assumption is something/some device hanging out in that region needed ground. (charcoal canister plug, perhaps? But in looking at the valve on the top of the charcoal canister, it has two black wires).

In this image stolen from another post, I can barely make out the wires going to the canister - but it looks like WB, BY or a WB, BW. I can't find it in the diagram (yet).

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The wiring harness has been.......a challenge.

The problem is hacks to fix who knows what along the way....add in stereos, cb radios, and whatever else required wiring. Solid red, yellow or black wire everywhere. Some lead to things, others dont. Alternator wiring was this: Yellow, red and blue. You can see the red spliced into the correct WL wire.

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Wiring in a new Amp Meter to Alternator wire: Crimped and protected. I've been using a little bit of "Super Lube" on each connection point.

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Another Coolerman product, the fuseable link:

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@ToyotaMatt pulled through on some additional electrical connectors:

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So cool that these parts are sourced from the forums. Love it.

I decided on a Toyota "TrueStart". I was initially going to go with a 27F - but they are 12" wide and would require modification of the battery tray. The 24F is a direct fit, although has some pretty lame stats.

Good ol' Part$ counter:

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Not sure if I'm a fan of the positive terminal cover or not. Let me know what you all think. It seems to me a bit of a modern part on an early truck?
 
So many broken/missing wires. One by one fixing the plugs.

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Done with the rear harness tie-in:

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Engine bay just about wrapped up. I have the temp sensor wire and one more straggler I don't know where it goes.

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The valve cover acorn nuts always bugged me, found a new set:

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