V8FJ4078
SILVER Star
What's the part number for the headlight bucket? I looked and didn't find them available when I was looking. I got chrome rings but neither part number I ordered fit my 78 buckets I refinished and had powdercoated.
Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter dmaddox
- Start date
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dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #903
Cleaning up the carb cooling fan:
Fan bracket installed:
Installing emissions equipment as I go.
Painted carb cooling fan with epoxy paint (same as axles I had left over). I went with gloss because under the old label it was gloss.
After I rough in the electrical, I'm going to put the clutch/brake lines in across the firewall.
Also, if you guys see something wrong, let me know. I'm going off of a folder full of 1978 FJ40's I've collected, most of which have been tampered with over the years.
Happy 4th of July!
Fan bracket installed:
Installing emissions equipment as I go.
Painted carb cooling fan with epoxy paint (same as axles I had left over). I went with gloss because under the old label it was gloss.
After I rough in the electrical, I'm going to put the clutch/brake lines in across the firewall.
Also, if you guys see something wrong, let me know. I'm going off of a folder full of 1978 FJ40's I've collected, most of which have been tampered with over the years.
Happy 4th of July!
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #904
@V8FJ4078 regarding the part # for the headlight buckets - I purchased them from @ToyotaMatt a couple of years ago. Not sure he has another set, but mind you, only the right side worked, as they were mirrors of each other, labled "R" and "L", however FJ40's are the same on both sides. So, I had to find my best bucket out of the bunch for the driver side. You could use it, but the headlight bulb would have to be rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise to fit in the slots.
Hope that helps - as I think what you did was the best course of action, to be honest.
Cheers
Hope that helps - as I think what you did was the best course of action, to be honest.
Cheers
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #905
I'm working on sorting out all of the electrical demons and issues. I have no idea how this rig ran in the past. There are so many butcher points, cheap clamps, electrical tape by the rolls, just a mess.
I need help understanding the ignition switch.
Note on the top left of the photo "IGNITION SWITCH":
1. there is a BW (black / white) that runs over to the bottom of the fuse block, the 5A radio pin. <Was going to my starter?>
2. there is a BY (black / yellow) that runs to the 10A engine pin on the fuse block, seems mine does too.
3. There is a LR (blue / red) that runs to the starter. <this was going to the 5A pin on my fuse block>.
4. There is a WL (white / blue) that splits and runs to the ammeter, etc. which mine does as well.
So, I've untapped all of the harness and have swapped the starter and radio wires. Right? Why does the radio need such a thick "BW" (in the ST position on the ignition switch)?
How or why someone would swap wires around from the starter to the radio is beyond me. Or am I going nuts here?
I need help understanding the ignition switch.
Note on the top left of the photo "IGNITION SWITCH":
1. there is a BW (black / white) that runs over to the bottom of the fuse block, the 5A radio pin. <Was going to my starter?>
2. there is a BY (black / yellow) that runs to the 10A engine pin on the fuse block, seems mine does too.
3. There is a LR (blue / red) that runs to the starter. <this was going to the 5A pin on my fuse block>.
4. There is a WL (white / blue) that splits and runs to the ammeter, etc. which mine does as well.
So, I've untapped all of the harness and have swapped the starter and radio wires. Right? Why does the radio need such a thick "BW" (in the ST position on the ignition switch)?
How or why someone would swap wires around from the starter to the radio is beyond me. Or am I going nuts here?
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #906
Having to do major repair to the wiring harness. Trying to start with the big stuff, ignition, starter, regulator, alternator, etc.. and am finding out why there was not a proper female four-prong plug to the ignition, as you can see here (dark green plug, center screen).
All wires just individually plugged in.
While it looks like a huge mess, we all deal with this every Christmas! Some lights are for the tree, some the roof.
Once I get everything going to where I need it, I'll re-wrap the harness and tuck it nicely into the clamps.
I also found the original speaker to go with the radio - looking forward to listening to a Mets game over the static AM radio...or Paul Harvey?
My wife helped me install an original Toyota windshield I found a few years back. It should clean up nice - no chips or issues.
One step at a time!
All wires just individually plugged in.
While it looks like a huge mess, we all deal with this every Christmas! Some lights are for the tree, some the roof.
Once I get everything going to where I need it, I'll re-wrap the harness and tuck it nicely into the clamps.
I also found the original speaker to go with the radio - looking forward to listening to a Mets game over the static AM radio...or Paul Harvey?
My wife helped me install an original Toyota windshield I found a few years back. It should clean up nice - no chips or issues.
One step at a time!
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dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #908
Every day I'd listen to Paul Harvey while sitting on a case tractor summer fallowing or cutting/bailing alf-alfa. Some good memories. I remember the super bowl that the Dodge commercial aired with that Paul Harvey rerun. Hit home! I wonder if I'll ever make it back to Montana - who knows. I'd sure like to.
Andrew S
SILVER Star
Dallas, from past experience, you'll never figure out why wiring harnesses have been hacked by POs. I've given myself headaches trying to understand similar problems.
I'd do exactly the same as you and return everything to stock to match the wiring diagrams. You can always make updates later once everything is working the way the factory intended.
Andrew
I'd do exactly the same as you and return everything to stock to match the wiring diagrams. You can always make updates later once everything is working the way the factory intended.
Andrew
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
It’s not too hard to un pin the plugs and feed the wires through the grommet. I was able to do it with just a small flat screwdriver. I took pictures of each plug and did one at a time. It took less than 30 minutes.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #911
Looking for a source for the grommets on the front fenders where the turn signal wires come through....or a part number. SOR.com is asking 20 bucks a piece for the thing. 55$ shipped for two dime sized pieces of rubber seems excessive to me. The hole appears to be 14ish mm if I remember correctly and any grommet I find at ace is either too big or too small.
Is there another grommet on the cruiser (perhaps the rear market light grommets that feed through the rear wheel well?) that could work?
Thanks!
Is there another grommet on the cruiser (perhaps the rear market light grommets that feed through the rear wheel well?) that could work?
Thanks!
You might also want to check McMaster.com. You can very likely find something that would fit exactly, though it wont have a TEQ stamp on it.
OlYellr
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dmaddox
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I'm surprised you didn't leave green primer visible on the hard top rails 
firemanj92
SILVER Star
The hood prop grommet works. Let me look for the part number, I just replaced all my wire thru the fender grommets. I think @mattressking and @cruiseroutfit told me about this in another thread (below) so I bought 14 of these which is the same for the windshield, back tail light thru body grommets too! Mr.T still sells them approx. $2.50 each
Toyota 90480-15002
GrommetUnobtainium - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/unobtainium.822577/page-157#post-14893088 (see post 3128-3134+)
edited for part num
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dmaddox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #919
Grommets came in from McMaster, here are the two items I'm trying:
I purchased the first item, 2633N23, to fit the front fenders where the turn signal wires pass through. (I chose items that you cut the center on - so for me, I just used an exacto knife and cut an "X" in the center, pushed the wires through and installed).
They fit snug - but perfectly. Very happy with these.
Next where the 3/4" for the rear of the tub. They are a little loose, side to side about 1/8" but otherwise, a good fit. Consequently, due to the tip from above, cutting the center out, they also fit perfectly into the hood prop hole:
Incredible how dusty it is and you can see how I need to clean up polishing compound that has flung around.
Also took a break this last weekend to enjoy some "Glamping" and enjoy a fire next to the Hudson river in upstate New York. Beautiful area.
I also visited the "Hoffman House" a late 1600's home that is now a restaurant. Some really cool history there.
I purchased the first item, 2633N23, to fit the front fenders where the turn signal wires pass through. (I chose items that you cut the center on - so for me, I just used an exacto knife and cut an "X" in the center, pushed the wires through and installed).
They fit snug - but perfectly. Very happy with these.
Next where the 3/4" for the rear of the tub. They are a little loose, side to side about 1/8" but otherwise, a good fit. Consequently, due to the tip from above, cutting the center out, they also fit perfectly into the hood prop hole:
Incredible how dusty it is and you can see how I need to clean up polishing compound that has flung around.
Also took a break this last weekend to enjoy some "Glamping" and enjoy a fire next to the Hudson river in upstate New York. Beautiful area.
I also visited the "Hoffman House" a late 1600's home that is now a restaurant. Some really cool history there.
