Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I got valve cover washer from dealer a few weeks ago and acorn nuts. Turns out the thread on the nuts were wrong. I will see if I can find pictures on my phone. (Edited with this text… Amayama listed the nut I got as comparable with 2f, but not true in my experience)


With the red wire, shooting in the dark, and from @Coolerman website. He mentions a red wire on a 77 at the igniter.

For 78-80 he states…. On a 1978 igniter, there is a dual pole connector that receives 12V power for the coil on one terminal and 12V power for the igniter on the other terminal. Ground is Through the feet


Maybe that helps 🤷‍♂️
 
Last edited:
dmaddox said:
The wiring harness has been.......a challenge.

The problem is hacks to fix who knows what along the way....add in stereos, cb radios, and whatever else required wiring. Solid red, yellow or black wire everywhere. Some lead to things, others dont. Alternator wiring was this: Yellow, red and blue. You can see the red spliced into the correct WL wire.

View attachment 3380515

Wiring in a new Amp Meter to Alternator wire: Crimped and protected. I've been using a little bit of "Super Lube" on each connection point.

View attachment 3380516

View attachment 3380517

Another Coolerman product, the fuseable link:

View attachment 3380518

@ToyotaMatt pulled through on some additional electrical connectors:

View attachment 3380519

So cool that these parts are sourced from the forums. Love it.

I decided on a Toyota "TrueStart". I was initially going to go with a 27F - but they are 12" wide and would require modification of the battery tray. The 24F is a direct fit, although has some pretty lame stats.

Good ol' Part$ counter:

View attachment 3380520

View attachment 3380521

View attachment 3380522

View attachment 3380523

Not sure if I'm a fan of the positive terminal cover or not. Let me know what you all think. It seems to me a bit of a modern part on an early truck?
Click to expand...


Hello Dallas looking sharp . as always ...:beer:


i felt the electrical technical struggle deep within your pounding heart as it leaned on the upper apron and reverberated like that snappy Genuine NipponDenso SNOW-VERSION 86510-60031 High Pitch diaphragm TONE horn .....

shall i inquire where Miss Low pitch 86520-60031 is at the moment ?


please introduce us to the talk of the CB40M town , the OEM MEEP MEEP's family that just moved int there on the core support have NOT said much here ?

they are a great couple indeed ! , but a bit shy i suppose ....:confused:


- i brought over my friends the OEM , MEEP MEEP MEEP, s ,

- they wanted to say hello to all of you and also you Dallas , as there also all born in 1978 too ......:cool:


- ill let them in .. hear them trotting to your shop now Dallas ......:D


,



.

 
Working on wrapping up the brakes. I sourced a nearly perfect booster, sanded and hosed it with epoxy 2-stage chassis black. (Eastwood chassis black has been my go-to).

IMG_3691.webp


New AISIN master cylinder:

IMG_3694.webp


There are a few cruisers on Bring a Trailer that I have been using for reference and fact checking against each other (and to remember how all of this goes back together!)

IMG_3695.webp


IMG_3696.webp


IMG_3697.webp


I had to make a run to the hardware store for an M8 long enough to go through the proportioning valve. They even had a stainless bolt.

Turned out ok. There are a few things I wish I would have done, but I think it turned out well enough.

IMG_3701.webp


IMG_3702.webp


IMG_3703.webp
 
I was trying to find a show quality igniter pack, but ended up just restoring a spare I had (which apparently came off a later FJ40 or 60, three wire that I've converted to two wire).

Like all of you, half the fun is the adventure in looking for parts. I think if I ever do another build, it will be an operational/patina job and not a restoration like this. What you face....is by having new shiny parts, anything else sticks out like a sore thumb. That means that every single piece needs to be refreshed, found new or NOS. That patina build (1971 or so) on BaT right now would be what I'd love to do, except for a later model 77/78.

Anyway, coil new from Toyota (discontinued):

IMG_3692.jpeg


IMG_3693.jpeg


I took the igniter pack apart, painted the cover (it was a mess, even though the factory stamping was sort-of there. If I ever find a show quality igniter cover or entire pack, I'll jump on it.)

I sourced a good label/decal for it, cleaned up the insides and put it all back together:

IMG_3705.jpeg


IMG_3706.jpeg


IMG_3707.jpeg


IMG_3710.jpeg


IMG_3711.jpeg


With the help of @Andrew S I was able to find out what that last wire went to, and installed a new condenser from @ToyotaMatt , tucking it onto the side of the igniter pack.

IMG_3712.jpeg


IMG_3713.jpeg
 
Thats a Darling and Sexy Long Genuine Sumitomo Japan Spec. long-reach Cord , COIL Resistive you got there for sure Dallas even has that ....

even has the color keyed red Cap boot at coil assy ....far out ! 🔮

:)
 
I'm guessing on my brake fitting, it was at some point overtightened....and it has "mushroomed" the tip, which isn't allowing it to fit into the brass female fitting.

In the meantime, I "fished" a bypass hose in my windshield frame (solid line was rusted) and fitted the oem sprayer nozzle and washer. Next is the wiper motor/arms, etc.

I'm bouncing around on various projects while I wait for parts to come.

IMG_3714.jpeg
IMG_3717.jpeg
IMG_3716.jpeg
IMG_3715.jpeg
 
Last edited:
re: Brake fitting - that's exactly what it was....just "mushroomed" out a little bit blocking it from allowing the threads to catch. I just spun it next to a fine file for a few dozen revolutions, cleaned it all up and it set in there fine.
 
hello Dallas ,


the whole toyota Grommets topic is indeed murky ,


but here below are your keys to your EPDM-kingdom

- this is my reproduction FJ40 Warm pull it covers ALL fire wall mouted heater valves

this IS the grommet u need


see TECH VIDEO below


thanks matt


.



1690609003734.png


1690609063445.png



1690609022410.png

1690609130071.webp




.
1690609118696.webp
 
Last edited:
Question to my wiring fanatics. At the firewall, on the passenger side where the rear main harness plugs into the front harness (by the blower motor). There is a blue with yellow stripe that passes through the larger plug and is just snipped off underneath the passenger feet. Any idea where this wire goes?
 
I'm going to guess windshield washer motor, based on the color code and location? I can't see under the dash myself to trace anything.

There's also an emission control computer wire that color, but I can't help with much beyond that.

Andrew
 
EDIT - never mind, it indeed routes inside the truck. Just slipped my mind while working on the rear harness.

Another wiring question. The Blue with Black stripe for the rear heater - is that routed in the cabin along the heater hoses to the rear heater? I'm assuming as much, since it isn't included in the main harnesses going under the truck.
 
Last edited:
Note to self, and perhaps others that may be dealing with fixing the rear harness, fixing reverse / backup lights. Specific to an early 78 (noting changes in July of 78)

Firewall Blue red at the 3 pin harness feeding the rear, goes to one of the two plugs on the reverse switch. The other Blue/red wire on the reverse plug plugs into the two teal plugs (one wire into two) and feeds the harness going to the rear (which supplies both reverse lights with power when trans is shifted into reverse).

Very confusing on the factory wiring diagram. Also, thank you GA Architect for aiding me through this confusing bit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom