You missed a big un'...Bout 3' in the mountains...
Builds 1968 FJ40 Build Page "the rocky road" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter huminajumina
- Start date
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JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Nice!
My parents got it on LI well over 2' ... Albany ny we got zilch ... Missed us
My parents got it on LI well over 2' ... Albany ny we got zilch ... Missed us
- Thread starter
- #143
Man, thats crazy, yea I really wish I was home for it, my neighbors and parents have been sending me pictures of their dogs trying to brave the snow!
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Man I had 3-4 ft in my yard today, spent the whole day digging out!
Some tech--->the 4Runner isn't too bad in the snow, needs better shoes.
Some tech--->the 4Runner isn't too bad in the snow, needs better shoes.
- Thread starter
- #145
So today I finally got to working on the rear heater that I got off ebay for $50, it still seemed a little pricey for me but it was complete and it looked rusty but not broken.
I soaked the heater core in dish soap for a few hours.
I elected to use solder and heat shink to avoid any connection issues and corrosion down the road...Also I only had several short pieces of wire, and nothing long enough...go figure...
I didn't bring my OEM Pewter Spray either, and Since most things that were pewter are now black I just went with black on the top and silver on the core. I tried to straighten out a few dents and bends in the top air diverter.
And here is the final product, Obviously there are plenty of bends in the top but it wasn't $150 either. My center console barely cleared the top, but it still hit one of the mounting bolts to the console. I elected to use only one mounting bolt (on the right) to shift the heater back just enough, so it cleared the console mounting bolt.
Heres an old shot, but its cool that All these original knobs work now, except the Choke and Throttle.
This heater is pretty nice, it is so quiet that I didn't know it was actually running in low and I can barely hear it in high with the engine off. I used @Coolerman's site to take apart the fan motor and free the bushing, and he put it best, "I always thought the rear heater was one of those cool things that Toyota had put in the cruisers." and yes I had to have one too, just finally found one a little more affordable.
I soaked the heater core in dish soap for a few hours.
I elected to use solder and heat shink to avoid any connection issues and corrosion down the road...Also I only had several short pieces of wire, and nothing long enough...go figure...
I didn't bring my OEM Pewter Spray either, and Since most things that were pewter are now black I just went with black on the top and silver on the core. I tried to straighten out a few dents and bends in the top air diverter.
And here is the final product, Obviously there are plenty of bends in the top but it wasn't $150 either. My center console barely cleared the top, but it still hit one of the mounting bolts to the console. I elected to use only one mounting bolt (on the right) to shift the heater back just enough, so it cleared the console mounting bolt.
Heres an old shot, but its cool that All these original knobs work now, except the Choke and Throttle.
This heater is pretty nice, it is so quiet that I didn't know it was actually running in low and I can barely hear it in high with the engine off. I used @Coolerman's site to take apart the fan motor and free the bushing, and he put it best, "I always thought the rear heater was one of those cool things that Toyota had put in the cruisers." and yes I had to have one too, just finally found one a little more affordable.
Last edited:
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
$50 for the rear heater is a great deal... Cores go for 3x that at times
It does help a lot with heat in the rear
Came out good !
It does help a lot with heat in the rear
Came out good !
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Damn, that is what I told him! I was outbid on ebay on a heater, it went for better than $175.
- Thread starter
- #148
Yea, I have never seen one go for so cheap, it was back in July, so I just waited to work on it, I was honestly expecting a leak or something with it being that cheap. Yes it definitely helps, it seems like it will help with the fogging up windows on cold rainy days.
- Thread starter
- #150
Since I am using 5/8" Heater hoses for my front and rear heaters instead of the factory hard lines, I had to use step down adapters for the rear heater. It was leaking and 1/2" hose fits much better. I really should fix the front heater core connections too, but it doesn't seem to be leaking now.
Today I started messing around on the cruiser and ended up taking the whole dash apart. I have always wanted to repaint the dash, but always assumed it would take too long to take all of the switches and dash pads off. It turns out that it was an easier task than I thought. The biggest part of it was unbolting the left front leg of the roll cage so I could back out the windshield dash screws ( the left one hits the roll bar when it is just about out). Other than that everything came out pretty quickly. I also wired up the dashpad light that I got a while back ( I don't think a '68 was supposed to have one?? but my dash pad has the cut out for it).
I used a few coats of flat black plasti-dip on the dashpads to freshen them up.
as soon as I got the paint on some moisture and cooler weather moved in making the paint stay tacky over night. As impatient as I am, I was able to let it setup all night; however, it was still tacky in the morning, and I was really careful while installing a few of the switches.
The original color of the dash didn't match the rest of the cruiser and there were a few scratches and rust spots that needed to be cleaned up. For a quick job I think it turned out pretty nice.
Now I just need to clean up the black paint on the ash tray and put the hub sticker on the passenger side.
Today I started messing around on the cruiser and ended up taking the whole dash apart. I have always wanted to repaint the dash, but always assumed it would take too long to take all of the switches and dash pads off. It turns out that it was an easier task than I thought. The biggest part of it was unbolting the left front leg of the roll cage so I could back out the windshield dash screws ( the left one hits the roll bar when it is just about out). Other than that everything came out pretty quickly. I also wired up the dashpad light that I got a while back ( I don't think a '68 was supposed to have one?? but my dash pad has the cut out for it).
I used a few coats of flat black plasti-dip on the dashpads to freshen them up.
as soon as I got the paint on some moisture and cooler weather moved in making the paint stay tacky over night. As impatient as I am, I was able to let it setup all night; however, it was still tacky in the morning, and I was really careful while installing a few of the switches.
The original color of the dash didn't match the rest of the cruiser and there were a few scratches and rust spots that needed to be cleaned up. For a quick job I think it turned out pretty nice.
Now I just need to clean up the black paint on the ash tray and put the hub sticker on the passenger side.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Looks good! You did that in a flash.
- Thread starter
- #152
Yea, man, I have been staring at that for too long, and wanted to fix it, I think it actually turned out nice for a quick touch-up. The windshield bolt mounts are pulling the welds out, so when I am home and can drill and weld them, I will. It definitely looks much better, I still need to do the windshield frame, but that will require pulling the top then the glass.... I drove it to go study this morning, and haven't gotten a chance to adjust the knobs so that they face the correct direction yet.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Working on something simple like a 40 is probably a good break from the studying! I spent most of my Sat night doing a quick clean up of the garage. It was to the point where I couldn't find things when I needed them.
- Thread starter
- #154
So I haven't really updated the thread alot since I have been down in MS. I have been pretty busy and stressed out when I am not busy... here is some of the fun over the past year....
Below is another casualty of the steering shaft, it is the water temp sender wire, and the steering shaft torn it in half and caused a short about 6" up from the break, after a few attempts at soldering and breaking out the multimeter I was able to isolate the open and cut it out. I have now secured all wires and cables out of the path of the steering shaft, and the bolts on the rag joint (which seem to be the culprit).
Today I also found the cause of a pretty loud rattle at the base of the window frame. It seams the PO replaced a broken hinge pin with a carriage bolt, I had to drill halfway through before I could hammer it out with a punch.
I was able to clean up a little bit of the mess I made with wires during the installation of the TBI and the gauges. I routed a few wires to the bundles and condensed the amount of wiring as much as possible . I also installed new cowl vent drain tubes from @Racer65 I was also able to install the new Champion radiator after years of the leaky crappy eBay aluminum radiator I had.
And finally I took a better picture of the interior after all the recent work. I was able to raise the door hinges and adjust the doors to give them a better seal at the top. they have been leaking and you could see light at the top. I also added the warn hub decal and cleaned the interior a little bit when I cleaned up the wiring. Now I just need to paint the rest of the windshield frame and powder coat the roll cage when I get a chance.
Below is another casualty of the steering shaft, it is the water temp sender wire, and the steering shaft torn it in half and caused a short about 6" up from the break, after a few attempts at soldering and breaking out the multimeter I was able to isolate the open and cut it out. I have now secured all wires and cables out of the path of the steering shaft, and the bolts on the rag joint (which seem to be the culprit).
Today I also found the cause of a pretty loud rattle at the base of the window frame. It seams the PO replaced a broken hinge pin with a carriage bolt, I had to drill halfway through before I could hammer it out with a punch.
I was able to clean up a little bit of the mess I made with wires during the installation of the TBI and the gauges. I routed a few wires to the bundles and condensed the amount of wiring as much as possible . I also installed new cowl vent drain tubes from @Racer65 I was also able to install the new Champion radiator after years of the leaky crappy eBay aluminum radiator I had.
And finally I took a better picture of the interior after all the recent work. I was able to raise the door hinges and adjust the doors to give them a better seal at the top. they have been leaking and you could see light at the top. I also added the warn hub decal and cleaned the interior a little bit when I cleaned up the wiring. Now I just need to paint the rest of the windshield frame and powder coat the roll cage when I get a chance.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Awesome pics as usual! What is the plan for that hinge? Did you already tap a new pin in?
Is that Patagonia hat a shark?
Is that Patagonia hat a shark?
- Thread starter
- #156
The window hinge pins seem to be the same as the door hinge pins, so I had the old set that I use in my half doors with me, so one of those fit in perfectly and took care of that rattle.
And yes, that is an old patagonia hat I have!
- Thread starter
- #157
@Snowdogyyz , Bringing up an old post, but I was just messing with the Cluster today. I have the BIM for outside Temp and Compass, I don't know if you have that or not, but it has been saying the wrong direction for a year now, and after reading the instructions I just started using the opposite of what it said. Turns out the instructions are wrong, and I finally got it calibrated correctly. With that, I finally messed around with all the settings, and found out how to add Digital speed, temp, volts, and other things to the LCD display, as well as, the actual needles. After all of that, I am actually very satisfied with the cluster. I had an issue with moisture in my glove-box, which kept corroding several CAT-V cables and gibing me error messages, now that all of that is squared away, I am very happy!!!
- Thread starter
- #158
Prior to moving down to MS, I did a short stent in Colorado. I drove out and visited friends, hiked, snowboarded, then showed up at work. The original plan was to drive the cruiser out there, but I decided against it. I didn't want to have any issues on the long trip out there so I drove my S-10. That worked out really nice! Two axles, bearings, seals, and a few quarts of GL-5 later, I was on my way (well...kinda)!
Then:
On the trip down here last April I was running into moisture issues with my Dakota Digital cluster. With a freshly installed 350, I was concerned with monitoring the temps and oil pressure on the 13+ hour trip down here (at 80*F and loaded up with 500lbs of my personal effects). The cluster would spit out an error code and not display any indications. Needless to say, I was stressed and pissed at this expensive thing that didn't work.
After a lot of troubleshooting and calls to tech support, I was able to finally find the issue. I think I had mentioned it in an earlier post, but I found corrosion on the CAT-V cable that connects the two units.
Also, Here are a few more photos from the past year. I have met a lot of cool cruiserheads down here in Columbus, Bot my picture, but I me and talked to this guy for a while, what a nice rig!!!
There are a few more pictures of his rig here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/freshly-restored-fj75-at-gsmtr.593235/
I also ran into a fellow cruiser owner with a 4BT and NV4500, pretty sweet ride!
If any of you guys are on here, shoot me a message, I have been so busy its tough to stay in touch.
Then:
On the trip down here last April I was running into moisture issues with my Dakota Digital cluster. With a freshly installed 350, I was concerned with monitoring the temps and oil pressure on the 13+ hour trip down here (at 80*F and loaded up with 500lbs of my personal effects). The cluster would spit out an error code and not display any indications. Needless to say, I was stressed and pissed at this expensive thing that didn't work.
After a lot of troubleshooting and calls to tech support, I was able to finally find the issue. I think I had mentioned it in an earlier post, but I found corrosion on the CAT-V cable that connects the two units.
Also, Here are a few more photos from the past year. I have met a lot of cool cruiserheads down here in Columbus, Bot my picture, but I me and talked to this guy for a while, what a nice rig!!!
There are a few more pictures of his rig here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/freshly-restored-fj75-at-gsmtr.593235/
I also ran into a fellow cruiser owner with a 4BT and NV4500, pretty sweet ride!
If any of you guys are on here, shoot me a message, I have been so busy its tough to stay in touch.
- Thread starter
- #159
I don't really have a lot of new progress on the cruiser these days, ive been preoccupied with work. I did remember that I didn't have all the washers and pieces for the passenger side vent window, which makes it unusable, so I went ahead and spent the extra money and placed an order with SOR, more to continue..... Also I ran into Kerry again a few weeks ago and got a picture of the cruisers together.
Nice pics. I bet the guy with the FJ Cruiser liked to crap a brick when he laid eyes on yours.
