Builds 1964 FJ45 Short Bed Fixed Top Pickup Restoration (5 Viewers)

[wngrog]

Finally got all my parts collected for the power steering setup. This is a mix of @lcwizard brackets, JEGS double D shaft and Joints and of course @cruiseroutfit drag link, pitman arm, rod ends and the column bushing.

The steering box is from my old friend Josh, owner of AGR/Steerco in Ft Worth.

I run this box on my FJ40 and it is superb.

When I asked Josh 2 years ago why buy a $700 steering box when the parts store has them for less than $200

His response.


“ALL reman boxes are still being reman’d by A1 Cardone, just packaged under many names

They do not take them apart. They only reseal them and do the secondary adjustment

ALL of my internal parts are new and machines here in my factory in Fort Worth

I polish the worm gear to remove just a little bit of material so o can add larger than factory stainless steel roller balls

I machine the sector shaft journal so I can double stack seals and bearings (roller bearing, seal, roller bearing, seal

I build my own valves to give the steering wheel a more modern feel

I cnc machine, hand assemble and load dyno test every single one before shipping it out”

 

[Bludozer]

The lineup of talent creating this truck is pretty incredible. Can't wait to see where this goes.

 

[wngrog]

Got the fore and aft frame holes cut out and clean. Mocked up the box. Made some plates to tie the frame together with this plate for and aft so we can weld 360* around it.

I also cut out some tubes for the long bolts I will use on the top to pass all the way across the frame. More vertical Cruiser frame drilling. Ugh.

Tomorrow we burn then I’ll move to the Firewall.

 

[RustyNailJustin]

Got the fore and aft frame holes cut out and clean. Mocked up the box. Made some plates to tie the frame together with this plate for and aft so we can weld 360* around it.

I also cut out some tubes for the long bolts I will use on the top to pass all the way across the frame. More vertical Cruiser frame drilling. Ugh.

Tomorrow we burn then I’ll move to the Firewall.

Premo upgrade!

 

[wngrog]

Premo upgrade!

Yeah adding some clapped out used ass 60/80 box was not happening.

My 40 steers incredible with one of these boxes fed by a City Racer new repro 60 pump.

No cooler. No stabilizer.

 

[wngrog]

So I had to do some modifications to this setup in order to:

A)make it removable
B)not hit the shackle bolt
C)be strong

Chef Lou is my welder and he usually works 80 hours a week and I only get him on Sundays. Well, Covid crap has him closed so he’s up here welding and grinding for me.

Turned out great. I love this stuff from @lcwizard

I’ve never had to notch the top frame but I looked at my truck and Lous and both are touching the shackle bolt. I think it’s better this way. And easily removable.

 

[middlecalf]

Guys who weld in shorts and short sleeves are just studs.

Is the roof exterior staying white?

 

[wngrog]

Guys who weld in shorts and short sleeves are just studs.

Is the roof exterior staying white?

As opposed to Cygnus White? Likely so unless John says otherwise. I’m sure this thing ends up with my paint guy again at some point.

If I did take this roof cap off, is this weatherstrip available? I know City Racer has it for the LPB

 

[middlecalf]

The city racer early front - windshield - seal works. I didn’t find anything specific to the fixed top SWBs for the main part of the roof. I have the city racer LPB one, it’s close - the sides are good over the doors, holes even match, but the back run comes up short without stretching, which doesn’t make sense as I thought the removable top cabs were bigger - longer - than the fixed tops. Here’s the seal laying on my rain gutter loosely.

I asked about the roof color because I’m getting close to either not painting my rebuilt roof - which would require some faux patina work on the new patches - or paint it rattle can red or some white color. I figured if you kept this one white then no one could complain that mine was white (original is body color)

 

[wngrog]

Another great feature of this 4Plus firewall plate is that the holes for the firewall are already drilled and the hole is offset and egged out already so you can move the steering column IN and UP to give the driver more knee and arm room.

Anyone that has driven a 45 SWB knows it was designed for small, skinny people from Japan.

The Steering tube was powder coated and then I cut about 3” off to give me room to adjust the upper joint to clear the frame

One thing I struggled with last time was this bushing. The shaft is just too tight to I found the right drill to make it fit perfect.

Polishing the outer bushing makes it a nice tight fit in the column

 

[wngrog]

The length of the shaft here is what will have to be adjusted before the upper joint is welded in. It’s a dance, especially since there is no motor and mount to “miss”

I’m going to run this as close to the frame as possible.

I’m taking the plate to powder so I’ll finish this up once it gets back

 

[jomelo]

Getting excited to go check this thing out tomorrow! I’m bringing a few fun things.

edit: weather sucks and now flying over next week.

 

[wngrog]

After taking apart the grossly painted running boards for powder and new white check material, I’m wondering if this checked aluminum piece is what this truck is really supposed to have.....I could just Powder this white and not add the commonly used white plastic material people often use.

 

[wngrog]

All of this plus the steps and firewall plate are going body color powder today

Powder Keg did a great job getting the closest match to this paint as possible.

 

[wngrog]

When Mike the painter first sprayed the rare OE “cardboard” insulation panels he was not happy with how they turned out so he took them back to his shop and made them perfect.

I added a little 150 Mil Noico behind them to help cool and quiet the tin can

This is such a great touch that this material was still in place

also, I forgot to mention earlier. I was able to remove and clean the original rubber seat bumpers from the tub and get them back on in one piece.

 

[wngrog]

Final morning update. @Dustin Messina horsetraded me a very nice new OEM bumper for this project.

Powder Keg matched the pewter earlier for interior items so the color was in house but for this and other external pieces they put an extra UV clear on it to make it even more sun and scratch resistant

I’ve never had a new late model bumper and was really surprised at how many holes they came with on the top for accessories

 

[middlecalf]

Interesting on the steps. Don’t know answer, but the 65 parts books call them “Mat, step RH” or (“LH”). Don‘t know of other aluminum body parts on early cruisers, but they did go fiberglass for the roofs at some point. I’d be tempted to clean them down to bare aluminum, then clear coat them (mat finish on aluminum grey color). The white steps are a ..... (bleep).

 

[wngrog]

I had the mirror arms coated pewter as well. I know they were body color but I like the way they match the mirror heads

Added a couple of sheets of the Noico to the tool box for heat and sound.

 

[wngrog]

The Eagle has Landed

 

[cbmontgo]

Final morning update. @Dustin Messina horsetraded me a very nice new OEM bumper for this project.

Powder Keg matched the pewter earlier for interior items so the color was in house but for this and other external pieces they put an extra UV clear on it to make it even more sun and scratch resistant

I’ve never had a new late model bumper and was really surprised at how many holes they came with on the top for accessories

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View attachment 2289679

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Yeah, I flip mine upside down. Way less holes.