Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (1 Viewer)

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Thanks @Lifelong40Fan that’s what mine is, so maybe that’s not my issue, unless you too show full oil (F on dipstick) with only 5 or so quarts?
 
Measured two F135 engines. One is 4” and one is 4.5” (1966) of tube length from the block.
 
Measured two F135 engines. One is 4” and one is 4.5” (1966) of tube length from the block.
Were the dipsticks different lengths? That's the real question.
 
Good question, when searching a bit ago I thought the dipstick part number was the same through ‘67 but that’s not from hard data.

I’m going to top my oil at 6.9 qts (ok, call it 7 or maybe 6.5liters 😂) tomorrow am and measure the height above the F line on the dipstick.
 
About 13.5” long. Both of them
 
Hey Chase @red66toy do both the rigs measured above have the same oil filter system?
 
Pulled out some dip sticks.
Not sure if this info helps.
961BF768-FED5-417E-A8A9-2B3C4EB93463.jpeg
 
Thought I had a theory going here, that being that the OEM canister oil systems have 4” dipstick tubes and the OEM spin on oil systems have 4-1/2” tubes due to the volume differences between the canister and spin on filters - to keep dipstick readings the same assuming the same total oil system volume (6.9 qts, 6.5 liters). But Chase’s @red66toy info just blew that theory. Somewhere this tube length change must be documented. All I know right now is with 6.9 qts (6.5 liters) of oil in my rig, after a brief run to fill the oil filter, the fill mark is 1/2” above the F line on the 15301-60030 dipstick with a 4” dipstick tube and non-original remote spin-on filter system. 🤷
 
A few more nicknames 😂

Shadow
Rattlecan
Bumpy


Corrugates 😡!
 
No closure on oil level or dipstick reading. 🤷‍♂️

I’m using a Beck/Arnley oil pressure switch (201-04052) that Jim (FJ40Jim) pointed out on his 45 barn build, which works in that with no pressure (ignition switch on) the idiot light is on and when running the light is off. But after the engine is fully warmed up and running at low rpms the light flickers on and off, and when the engine has been driven a fair bit it even lights up when up to 2k rpms. I’m running 7qts of 10-w30 Shell Rotella T4. Can’t find the pressure specs for the Beck/Arnley switch, was hoping to find something that would have a lower low pressure threshold. I can tolerate the light flickering at idle, but it’s annoying at 2k rpms 😂. Funny that Toyota went from oil pressure gauge (25) to idiot light (early 40) back to oil pressure (later 40).

Wonder if this switch would work for oil pressure switch? OEM Brake Pressure Warning Switch for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-brake-master-cylinder-pressure-warning-switch
 
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Maybe this old engine needs 20w-50 to keep the low pressure light from coming on cuz of bearing wear when the oil gets warmed up?
 
Found this mentioned on an old mud thread "I searched long ago and remember that the dash idiot light for oil pressure on many vehicles that have them are set to where the light comes on at around 4 to 7 psi."
Maybe hunt for a oil pressure switch rated for like 9psi. ? I am not sure what a healthy PSI is at low idle. I am guessing its low on these bypass oil systems.
 
The Toyota switch from cityracer didn’t work for me. Light comes on with ignition but doesn’t go off, even after warmed up and 2000 rpm. When the switch is disconnected the warning light is off, just for completeness.

Beck Arnley tech told me their switch’s (2010452) on/off pressure is 0.4bar, which is around 5.8psi. So that‘s lower than I suspected. Not sure of next step.
 

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