Build 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"
- Thread starter middlecalf
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- #102
Not the corect OEM part number for this rig?
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Sliding it fore & aft should get 4 holes to align. Also, try spinning it 180°.
The original PN is 60010, but the 60011 should fit, that's why it has so many possible mounting holes.
The original PN is 60010, but the 60011 should fit, that's why it has so many possible mounting holes.
- Thread starter
- #104
It doesn’t. The other holes in the base not seen in the pic are at the edge of the tray (top of pic) so they’re an inch+ too wide.
If anyone wants please post measurement between mount holes and year for their rig.
If anyone wants please post measurement between mount holes and year for their rig.
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I used that new tray, but the battery stand came off a 1968-ish frame. The battery stand bolted to my 1962 truck frame and had the arm for the fuel filter. So it musta changed somewhere before 1968.
Either drill the battery tray or swap on a later stand.
Either drill the battery tray or swap on a later stand.
- Thread starter
- #106
I need to search the FJ25 forum more.
let's talk early 40 battery trays
let's talk early 40 battery trays
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- #107
The good news is that the new replacement starter works (last weeks bad news). So I was able to make a first compression test. It sucks.
Next step is cold valve adjustment (yeah, right, how you suppose to do a warm valve adjustment on a non-running motor lol). Then I’ll check it again.
Next step is cold valve adjustment (yeah, right, how you suppose to do a warm valve adjustment on a non-running motor lol). Then I’ll check it again.
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If the engine hasn't been run in a long time the compression readings will be low because rust haze on cylinders & valves, and stuck, dry piston rings.
Recommendation: dump some ATF in every cylinder, turn a couple revolutions by hand, let it sit for a day or two.
Hook up battery, top off coolant & oil, crank engine to blow ATF out plug holes.
Install cleaned & gapped plugs, dump gas in rebuilt carb, fire it up.
Recommendation: dump some ATF in every cylinder, turn a couple revolutions by hand, let it sit for a day or two.
Hook up battery, top off coolant & oil, crank engine to blow ATF out plug holes.
Install cleaned & gapped plugs, dump gas in rebuilt carb, fire it up.
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- #109
Good info Jim. Thanks I’ll do that when I get everything in place for first liftoff. Checked the valve gaps and not bad, a couple a little tight and a couple a little loose. Cold of course. Helped some on compression but I’ll go ahead and proceed on plan.
I did get oil out of the regulator just on the starter crank. Is the regulator set too low? What’s the method for setting “correct” pressure (150 psi?). Not obvious if the info is in the FSM. Thanks.
I did get oil out of the regulator just on the starter crank. Is the regulator set too low? What’s the method for setting “correct” pressure (150 psi?). Not obvious if the info is in the FSM. Thanks.
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- #110
So at TDC compression ...
... the dizzy is pointing this way and is not centered on #1 plug wire in cap (between 1 and 3 - orange plug wire is #1).
I’m assuming that if I use this dizzy or a stockish one or a DUI that the rotor should point like this pic shows (and centered on #1 plug wire in cap) at TDC compression? And this should give close to 7-deg BTDC timing?
Not sure if this engine ever ran with dizzy pointing where it is now. It’s a dual points Mallory, not sure if that makes any difference in TDC orientation. Ignoring the fact it’s not centered on the #1 plug wire, IIRC it’s current position is for a very retarded timing condition. Fits me well.
... the dizzy is pointing this way and is not centered on #1 plug wire in cap (between 1 and 3 - orange plug wire is #1).
I’m assuming that if I use this dizzy or a stockish one or a DUI that the rotor should point like this pic shows (and centered on #1 plug wire in cap) at TDC compression? And this should give close to 7-deg BTDC timing?
Not sure if this engine ever ran with dizzy pointing where it is now. It’s a dual points Mallory, not sure if that makes any difference in TDC orientation. Ignoring the fact it’s not centered on the #1 plug wire, IIRC it’s current position is for a very retarded timing condition. Fits me well.
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The whole ignition system is an abortion. Use it for test firing purposes, then get a E-68 vac advance F dissy & coil installed and drive it.
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IMO it doesn't matter where the rotor points in relation to the engine, as long as it points at #1 lead.
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- #113
That’s what I thought, but I’m at war with my brain these days. Fits probably the biggest driver, eh?
How’s this for a firing order - 1 2 5 6 4 3
Think that’ll work?
That’s the way the wires are setup on this dizzy. Abortion might be a bit of an understatement.
Happy Flag Day folks!
How’s this for a firing order - 1 2 5 6 4 3
Think that’ll work?
That’s the way the wires are setup on this dizzy. Abortion might be a bit of an understatement.Happy Flag Day folks!
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- #114
Feed the beast, beat the beast,...
then hang the beast. Just like in the cow business.
Buried OEM parts. Mr. Toyota and Uncle Sam must of had good trade relations back in the day lol. What’s the recommended brand replacement for the pilot?
then hang the beast. Just like in the cow business.
Buried OEM parts. Mr. Toyota and Uncle Sam must of had good trade relations back in the day lol. What’s the recommended brand replacement for the pilot?
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- #115
It wasn’t running, but otherwise this might qualify for a wall of shame somewhere. Good use I guess for spare lug nuts. And with the extra strength of the lug nut only two bracket bolts needed. That third hole has worked so hard, it needs a little time off.
Paul I want to know how many slices of bread you crammed into the back of that crank shaft...love that old trick!
As for the pilot bearing it’s always been included in the clutch job kits I’ve sourced. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters can supply you with a good Aisin kit and he’s not far.
As for the pilot bearing it’s always been included in the clutch job kits I’ve sourced. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters can supply you with a good Aisin kit and he’s not far.
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- #118
The balancer has that dent on both sides 180-deg from each other. They each look exactly the same. I wasn’t sure if that was original for some reason?
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- #119
JP - two slices of homemade sourdough from the wife’s kitchen. Thought for a little while I should have used wonder bread, lol. But the bearing finally succumbed to my beating it with the OEM bearing removal stick!
I got an “opened” kit from Georg that didn’t have a bearing in it, so I’ll have to pick one up (the same reason I had to pick up an alignment tool, it wasn’t in the kit either).
I got an “opened” kit from Georg that didn’t have a bearing in it, so I’ll have to pick one up (the same reason I had to pick up an alignment tool, it wasn’t in the kit either).
We would love to help!
All of our clutch kits include the pilot bearing along with the pressure plate (cover), disc, throw out bearing and alignment tool. We stock the rear main seals and generally toss them in with a clutch job too. Give us a shout at the shop if we can be of help! More on our clutches here on Mud: Clutch Kits - F, 2F, B, 2B, 3B, 13BT, H, 2H, 12HT, 1HZ & 1HD
Edit: It looks like you got all of the major clutch components. We stock all the parts loose too including the pilot bearings (Koyo and NSK) if you need one. Let us know
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