Build 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"

[middlecalf]

Here’s more pics of the wheel. 17.5” in diameter, hub diameter just under 4” and hub height 2-1/8”. That matches what’s in my ‘65 FJ40 but that isn’t saying much. Has one signal cancellation pin (pic above). Looks like a cruiser wheel to me.

Can’t figure out bore. Can’t tell if slight remnant of splines is in fact remnant or just wear marks from splines on shaft. There’s a little bit of wobble in the wheel on the shaft (without roll pin or bolt) which tells me there’s a possibility the splines where ground off. If so, why?

 

[middlecalf]

And now for the bed mounts. There are 8 not including the four mount locations along the rear frame member. The front 4 are bolted on (circled green), and of course the passenger side front one has tube channels for extra height, FOR SOME WACKO REASON. Bolts are too rusted to be able to extract and measue, but a 12mm socket fits the heads on a three sets but not the fourth.

This whole bed is wacko. Thank goodness a bunch of it is rusted away, lol.

How many mounts are there suppose to on a SWB? Oh, and the extra crosswise rails were for an underbed fuel tank. They’re going away.

 

[middlecalf]

But tunnels off (only one bad bolt) and driver’s side step. In another thread someone said the later steps were sloted. These are sloted off a ‘63. Not original? Hidden red paint matches other hidden paint on rig.

Time to mow the grass.

 

[middlecalf]

@pardion I just ran through @FJ40Jim ‘s build again, and had forgot about this pic of his driveshaft install. Looks like his early 45 has bolted on front bed mounts. That helps a ton as that means there’s at least two of us with these mounts!

And I’m wondering if the added spacers/shims on my rig were for some sort of body lift for something. Part of mystery partly solved! Lol

 

[FJ40Jim]

Mine had some mechanical mods, but there is no evidence the body has been off, no repaint, no big accident damage (but lots of work truck dings). So if you need a pic of something or a measurement, just post on my thread.

 

[middlecalf]

Here’s the reason I’m chasing bed mounts: if I rebuild/reuse this bed I’ll have to replace every cross member on it. So just trying to figure out what are real mount locations. Looks like all of them are.

So bed options on the table right now are: rebuild this one (and I have so much sheet metal build experience, lol - not); buy a replacement (but I don’t know anyone making SWB beds); find a donor (but most likely a reasonable donor would push this rig into the donor class, and a whole bunch more $$’s); build a flatbed variant of some sort (but then I’d have to move to Australia lol); scab a Chevy or Ford bed on it (doh!); use it as a flower bed.
Lots of buts there... We’ll see.

 

[middlecalf]

Whats with this water pump install? The pump spins freely fwiw.

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

Doesn’t look out of the ordinary to me. There aren’t any bolts that hold the top third of the pump to the head. You can see the gap here on my refreshed engine.

 

[middlecalf]

Perfect JP. That’s what I was hoping. And the forward (and rearward) exhaust manifold non-bolt, mine looks like yours. Thanks!

My engine almost looks like yours. Almost lol

 

[mmcinnis]

Here’s the reason I’m chasing bed mounts: if I rebuild/reuse this bed I’ll have to replace every cross member on it. So just trying to figure out what are real mount locations. Looks like all of them are.
View attachment 1702303

So bed options on the table right now are: rebuild this one (and I have so much sheet metal build experience, lol - not); buy a replacement (but I don’t know anyone making SWB beds); find a donor (but most likely a reasonable donor would push this rig into the donor class, and a whole bunch more $$’s); build a flatbed variant of some sort (but then I’d have to move to Australia lol); scab a Chevy or Ford bed on it (doh!); use it as a flower bed.
Lots of buts there... We’ll see.

I may have a swb bed connection if interested? PM me. Thanks, Mike

 

[middlecalf]

Got the cab off of the frame. That was fun. Didn’t take a pic with it up in the air under the crane, was too busy cussing. But only 6-1/2 cusses. There’s probably a correct way to do it, and then there’s my way. Franky S. would be singing his heart out by now.

And wasn’t even thinking of doing a frame off. Still ain’t.

 

[middlecalf]

So what’s up with the coil? Empty boxes have no future...

And any info on dizzy, other than not OEM?

Maybe I should just go with a DUI and punt the coil with the empty box. I might pop the top on the dizzy tomorrow. I bet the points are gold plated.

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

And wasn’t even thinking of doing a frame off. Still ain’t.

You’re headed down the rabbit hole fast... no turning back now might as well embrace it

 

[middlecalf]

Wascally rabbits...

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

So what’s up with the coil? .

That’s your hot rod dizzy to compliment your hot road dual carb set-up. Was probably good for an extra “10hp” back in the day You can get a good OEM unit from Racer65 for a reasonable price. It’s what I’ve been running on all my early stuff.

 

[middlecalf]

More rabbit hunting. I think the easy part is about over.

 

[wngrog]

Fix your bed. It will be underside. Who cares what you use to shore it up.

 

[middlecalf]

Boring post, no pics, but just cleaning the frame. It has issues, but I haven't decided whether to ignore them or not yet. I'm good at ignoring things that I'm not familiar with, lol.

So, speaking of brakes ( ), I have at least three lines broken. And since I like to stop, I'm not ignoring this issue, but I'm not sure of the nomenclature of the ones that are broken. An option is to replace those, and I've sent a note to Rain Man. Not sure if he does 45 lines or not. I'm guessing a lot are the same as a 40, maybe just the one that goes from the front to the rear is different? Anyway, another option is to replace them all. Rain Man is principle source, any other options? Build them myself (what tools needed)? I'm a little concerned about removing the lines from the couplings, looks like they've been there since time eternal. Are the couplings available? Over.

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

Paul, I've made all new lines a few times over the years before Rainman came along..... but I will be using him on my 45 resto if that tells you anything His price is very reasonable to me and well worth the time and hassle it saves especially if you don't have the flaring, bend, and straightening tools already. You are correct the only difference should be the long line from front to back. Though your rear drum/ wheel cycl. lines may be different as my 1964 LV has a different set-up than my 65-67 45s. So talk with Rainman I'm sure he can figure it out.

 

[wngrog]

I used @Rainman and I don’t see how you could do it yourself for the price he charges. So nice. Professional. Shipped right. Great guy. Don’t even give it a second thought.