Thanks Guys. The 45 lines may be doable after I get the lines here. Sorry you haven't heard back. I'm getting there. So many things to accomplish these days. I'm stretched right now. I hope to get on the new orders ASAP.
Build 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"
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Small victories.
The one tailgate hinge left on this rig is now free moving after some tub time with Ed. Now I just need to find two more.
And a FD indicator switch was still attached to the rear wire harness (no TC or tranny though, lol). It now functions also after soaking, open/closed circuit works too! Good thing, the replacement FD unit from Georg has a non-functioning switch so this gets me one step closer to having this system functional.
No small victories would be possible without the inconceivable sacrifice of so many. Blessed Memorial Day.
The one tailgate hinge left on this rig is now free moving after some tub time with Ed. Now I just need to find two more.
And a FD indicator switch was still attached to the rear wire harness (no TC or tranny though, lol). It now functions also after soaking, open/closed circuit works too! Good thing, the replacement FD unit from Georg has a non-functioning switch so this gets me one step closer to having this system functional.
No small victories would be possible without the inconceivable sacrifice of so many. Blessed Memorial Day.
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- #83
My brain showed up again today. Sort of. Dawned on me last night that I have to remove the clutch and flywheel before removing the bellhousing, and before mounting on incoming motor stand. And having access to the flywheel can be benificial for unsticking a stuck motor, if necessary. Ok, so motors back on the frame. Finally removed valve cover and pleased with what I see (should I be?). Plugs looked used, nothing noteworthy just proof this thing has run sometime this century or last.
And the engine spins! (I did squirt a little elixir in each cylinder, probably not needed). Nice to have access to flywheel.
So this thing doesn’t have an oil filter or the hoses. If I wanted to spin this with the starter to check compression should I have the crankcase filled with oil and maybe just plug the oil pump outlet?
And the engine spins! (I did squirt a little elixir in each cylinder, probably not needed). Nice to have access to flywheel.
So this thing doesn’t have an oil filter or the hoses. If I wanted to spin this with the starter to check compression should I have the crankcase filled with oil and maybe just plug the oil pump outlet?
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- #84
I'll answer my own question - if this things going to spin even if just a little it's probably good to have oil in it, LOL.
So does anyone have a good diagram of how the oil bath filter unit goes together? I've got one in pieces, but it's not obvious how the center tube goes into the canister and what/where do the rubber washers, nuts, etc. go. SOR's figure doesn't help enough.
And I'm missing an oil line union (thing that allows oil line to connect to regulator and engine block). I have one, but need another. Are these available somewhere/somehow?
So does anyone have a good diagram of how the oil bath filter unit goes together? I've got one in pieces, but it's not obvious how the center tube goes into the canister and what/where do the rubber washers, nuts, etc. go. SOR's figure doesn't help enough.
And I'm missing an oil line union (thing that allows oil line to connect to regulator and engine block). I have one, but need another. Are these available somewhere/somehow?
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- #85
Forgot I had this pic buried in my archives, I think Mark (cppilot) sent me this.
I’ll just order the stainless lines from SOR if they have the unions unless someone can point me to an alternative.
I’ll just order the stainless lines from SOR if they have the unions unless someone can point me to an alternative.
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Is the union fitting available from Toyota?
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- #88
Good question. Checking with Camelback. Is there an online availability site I can search that covers early vehicles? Plus getting part numbers is hard without a parts book. Mark (cppilot) has been a lot of help.
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- #89
I want to turn it enough to get cylinder pressure readings. Can I do that by hand? If I spin it with the starter is that enough that I should have oil for the cam, etc.
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Just checked, the unions are 90404-13015, but are long discoed.
For the purpose of getting compression reading it will be necessary to spin engine with a starter & fully charged battery. There will not be oil pressure above the 50PSI bypass regulator pressure, so there will not be any oil flow to the oil filter. For testing, the oil filter feed port can be plugged. That's the one coming out of the regulator. The union screwed directly into the skirt of the block is the return, which simply dumps into the pan.
For the purpose of getting compression reading it will be necessary to spin engine with a starter & fully charged battery. There will not be oil pressure above the 50PSI bypass regulator pressure, so there will not be any oil flow to the oil filter. For testing, the oil filter feed port can be plugged. That's the one coming out of the regulator. The union screwed directly into the skirt of the block is the return, which simply dumps into the pan.
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- #91
Thanks Jim, that’s great help. Camelback also says the unions aren’t available. I may order the SS hoses from SOR, they have the unions included. But, see next post...
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- #92
What options are there for remote filter kits that include hoses with unions? I know SOR has one but they’re OOS and no ETA for them. Aggravating but the unions are the wild card right now in this drama.
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A filter is not needed. To run the engine, it is necessary to connect the output of the pressure regulator to the return port in the block.
I don't remember what those threads are... BSPT? BSPP? Straight metric w/ seal? Just find a way to get to a barb fitting, slide on some oilproof hose and run it.
I don't remember what those threads are... BSPT? BSPP? Straight metric w/ seal? Just find a way to get to a barb fitting, slide on some oilproof hose and run it.
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- #95
I assume your referring to just spinning it via starter to check compression, or maybe just initial startup to see if this thing runs? When it's actually up and running for good I would need a filter of some sort, correct?
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You don't need an oil filter but it's wise. Filters only became standard fitment in the fifties [depending on make and location]. I would though.
Comp tests results are most accurate with a warm engine if that's any indication of the motor's ideal state of readiness. So yes to oil in the sump and yes to blocking off oil lines on non operational parts.
Comp tests results are most accurate with a warm engine if that's any indication of the motor's ideal state of readiness. So yes to oil in the sump and yes to blocking off oil lines on non operational parts.
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A filter is nice to have. This archaic engine is using a bypass filter. The only oil that goes through the filter is excess oil pressure that is bled off by the regulator. If the engine has worn bearings or oil pump and can never exceed the regulated pressure, then no oil will flow through the filter. So there is a good possibility that this filter is doing nothing. Which is why old engines carry gallons of oil in the sump: More oil to disperse contaminants into.
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- #98
You guys made my day!
Archaic is that archaic does! I’m approaching archaic. This rig fits.
Archaic is that archaic does! I’m approaching archaic. This rig fits.
Squirting oil in the cylinder's sounds good for lubrication but will also give you a false reading. It seals the rings which increases the compression readings so be aware of that.
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- #100
More plinking aka dismantling.
Are these still available? If so, part no.?
If you’re looking for a clutch alignment tool, this fits perfectly. If not local try Roackauto.
Are these still available? If so, part no.?
If you’re looking for a clutch alignment tool, this fits perfectly. If not local try Roackauto.