pardion
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I would really like to report that this is factory, but it is not. Is it possible one of the horses chomped on it?
Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter middlecalf
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middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #122
Well the grass is getting thinner around here as things are looking summer like, so maybe one of the ponies was looking for a little iron. I’ll have to get a supplement block out quick before something else gets chomped on.
How hard is it to come by one of these <early?> balancers? Looks like I need 09213-60010 puller (or similar aftermarket). And a timing gear cover gasket while I’m in there.
Kurt - I’m putting a list together, will start the gettin’ once I get tear down a little further along. Thanks.
How hard is it to come by one of these <early?> balancers? Looks like I need 09213-60010 puller (or similar aftermarket). And a timing gear cover gasket while I’m in there.
Kurt - I’m putting a list together, will start the gettin’ once I get tear down a little further along. Thanks.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #123
More (actually less) discovery. Of what I have and what I can (or can’t) do.
In case I wanted to replace the rusty rear cross member, I tested whether I could remove a very rusted rivet. Very rusted. So off went the rivet head with my air chisel, no problem. 20 secs. Ok, more like 60. No sign of rivet shaft. So out with the grinder. Clean metal everywhere, even below the pocked steel on the cross member. No rivet shaft. Beat it with the biggest tool set I have and hammer - ok not a sledge hammer though. No movement. I guess I’m keeping the rusted pocked cross member, sans one external rivet head. One step toward going full beater for this rig. So far only about 5% of removed or attempted removed items are functional or rebuildable. Nice investment lol.
Yes, I’ll have another one. Neat.
In case I wanted to replace the rusty rear cross member, I tested whether I could remove a very rusted rivet. Very rusted. So off went the rivet head with my air chisel, no problem. 20 secs. Ok, more like 60. No sign of rivet shaft. So out with the grinder. Clean metal everywhere, even below the pocked steel on the cross member. No rivet shaft. Beat it with the biggest tool set I have and hammer - ok not a sledge hammer though. No movement. I guess I’m keeping the rusted pocked cross member, sans one external rivet head. One step toward going full beater for this rig. So far only about 5% of removed or attempted removed items are functional or rebuildable. Nice investment lol.
Yes, I’ll have another one. Neat.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #124
Oh and rusty doesn’t mean surface rust. More like what the moon looks like through your telescope. Except for the holes.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #125
Wonder if I need to think about cutting my losses? That’s the frame, not the box, which also has issues.
Air hammering away. Good thing these are over designed, right? Right?
Lol.
Air hammering away. Good thing these are over designed, right? Right?
Lol.
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Michael B
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It helps to drill the shaft of the rivet after head removal. It gives the rivet the needed area to compress as it is being driven out.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #127
Thanks 76. I'll give that a try. If successful, back to plan of removal for rear cross member, and acquisition of a replacement if I can find one for this vintage. I need to keep in focus that this isn't a pristine restoration, just functional at this point in time. I dunno, kind of sexy in a high-school complexion sort of way...
There are doublers on the inside of the frame where the rear spring perch is attached. They need to be addressed. Don't recall these on my 40, but haven't looked that close. Is this a 45 thing? If I can figure out the de-riveting process I'll probably pull the rivets that hold the remains of the doublers in place (and also are part of the spring perch attachment) and replace with a bolted on version after I've dejunked the area. I have the one hole in the frame web that needs addressing that's in the same area (above pic), so I might incorporate that in a larger doubler. I don't want to introduce any new or additional load paths that don't have adequate structure, always a concern when modifying existing structure and not necessarily knowing the designed-in load paths other than through observation and the guidance/info about frame repair in the FSM. I don't think I'll be making a NASTRAN model of my frame and running a full stress analysis. Harkens back to the days I was an aerospace structural design engineer. Not much, though, lol as we never welded anything primary structural on aircraft. Rivets and bolts (hi-locks). I'll post pics later to end this boring dribble.
There are doublers on the inside of the frame where the rear spring perch is attached. They need to be addressed. Don't recall these on my 40, but haven't looked that close. Is this a 45 thing? If I can figure out the de-riveting process I'll probably pull the rivets that hold the remains of the doublers in place (and also are part of the spring perch attachment) and replace with a bolted on version after I've dejunked the area. I have the one hole in the frame web that needs addressing that's in the same area (above pic), so I might incorporate that in a larger doubler. I don't want to introduce any new or additional load paths that don't have adequate structure, always a concern when modifying existing structure and not necessarily knowing the designed-in load paths other than through observation and the guidance/info about frame repair in the FSM. I don't think I'll be making a NASTRAN model of my frame and running a full stress analysis. Harkens back to the days I was an aerospace structural design engineer. Not much, though, lol as we never welded anything primary structural on aircraft. Rivets and bolts (hi-locks). I'll post pics later to end this boring dribble.
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middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #128
We’ll test #2 didn’t go so good. I drilled the shaft, and beat it. Nothing. Drilled a little bigger. Beat. Nothing. More drilling and beating. Air hammer beating as well. Nada. Finally just drilled out the hole for the most part, 3/8” bit which is smaller I think than the actual holes (?) but was hitting fresh metal. And there was still remnant of the inside rivet head, which took the air chisel to remove - which isn’t an option for all the rivets that need removing. So, what’s up with these rivets? Seems like they’re literally part of the frame. You can see it’s angry sisters adjacent to it.
I’ll post pics of the rotted doubler tomorrow - I have to be able to do this to remove the rotted stuff.
I’ll post pics of the rotted doubler tomorrow - I have to be able to do this to remove the rotted stuff.
First mention you’ve made of punting.
Are you thinking of trashing the project or just the frame?
Frame is bad. I’m not going to lie.
Are you thinking of trashing the project or just the frame?
Frame is bad. I’m not going to lie.
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #131
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #132
I took that whusass who posted in post 125, et al, out behind the barn this am, and after beating him senseless I said “dude, you’re not doing what JP or Nolan or Dom or whomever’s doing - do your own damn thing.” Straightened him out.
Here’s my daily commute
This is what we call PO in the fence building world.
Here’s my daily commute
This is what we call PO in the fence building world.
That 40 is pimp.
rear crossmember options.. I replaced mine.. Ground the rivet heads down, then used air chisel pointed tip.
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER--Landcruiser REAR FRAME MEMBER EARLY- 9/73 FJ40 | eBay
Vic and Cindy at Hadley Industries
viccin@centurytel.net
they should sell both the rear crossmember and the diagonals pre-bent. Holes might not align perfectly for an FJ45 but a welder and drill will fix that!
TOYOTA LAND CRUISER--Landcruiser REAR FRAME MEMBER EARLY- 9/73 FJ40 | eBay
Vic and Cindy at Hadley Industries
viccin@centurytel.net
they should sell both the rear crossmember and the diagonals pre-bent. Holes might not align perfectly for an FJ45 but a welder and drill will fix that!
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #135
Not to crowd JPs thread. Here are the pics of the strength plate on the LPB frame
The frame is a solid piece. This is on sides and bottom to keep it from snapping down
The frame is a solid piece. This is on sides and bottom to keep it from snapping down
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #137
Awesome Nolan, thanks! Yeah I’m bad at hammering other people’s threads (I’ve hammered yours a wee bit lol) but that’s because you guys do such great work!
It looks like there’s a flange on that strength plate that’s on the top of the frame as well, no? Anyway, random thoughts not for any purpose but to occupy the random synapse when my brain is still with me:
- strength plate is between forward rear spring shackle and middle frame cross member. In JP’s pic I couldn’t tell if the spring shackle was incorporated.
- front bed mount and rear cab mount are incorporated (and what a cab body mount! That looks like an engine mount, lol)
- kardashian Jenner has to ride in back
Where’s your frame rust? Oh yeah, you converted it. Two gallons sitting on the shelf waiting for me to complete the disassembly to be applied, extensively and liberally.
It looks like there’s a flange on that strength plate that’s on the top of the frame as well, no? Anyway, random thoughts not for any purpose but to occupy the random synapse when my brain is still with me:
- strength plate is between forward rear spring shackle and middle frame cross member. In JP’s pic I couldn’t tell if the spring shackle was incorporated.
- front bed mount and rear cab mount are incorporated (and what a cab body mount! That looks like an engine mount, lol)
- kardashian Jenner has to ride in back
Where’s your frame rust? Oh yeah, you converted it. Two gallons sitting on the shelf waiting for me to complete the disassembly to be applied, extensively and liberally.
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middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #138
bang, bang. Chitty.
Rear frame cross member out. Next up the diagonal braces (all will get replaced with new builds from local machine shop, maybe...) then spring peaches so things can get kardashianized. I’ll then stop with the annoying reference. Until...
Rear frame cross member out. Next up the diagonal braces (all will get replaced with new builds from local machine shop, maybe...) then spring peaches so things can get kardashianized. I’ll then stop with the annoying reference. Until...
I still have crap coming out of the inside of my frame.
I’m driving it and it’s shaking out and getting loose. I’m trying not to is water. Once it is mostly all out I’ll flush it with water.
Two more
I’m driving it and it’s shaking out and getting loose. I’m trying not to is water. Once it is mostly all out I’ll flush it with water.
Two more
middlecalf
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- Thread starter
- #140
Yeah so reference that last pic. You may already know this, but it’s virtually impossible for crap to get by (forward or rearward) inside the frame in the area of that dang cross member. The serious frame issues I have are in that area because it got caked with crude - maybe even radioactive since this rig was in Nevada lol - and just sat there and ate away at the frame (mostly the box). Water’s not the problem. It’s crap/dirt and water. Stick a pressure washer nozzle in the nearest hole to that area and blast until you get water flowing freely up and down the frame internally. Repeat often. And wear swimming trunks. No pictures though.
