Build 12HT into a 55

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So how close is too close for the gap between the engine and firewall? I just re-tacked the frame mounts and now I’m about 1/2 to maybe 3/4’s of an inch from the fire wall. Maybe even a bit tighter as the motor is clocked to the drivers side. Trying to maximize the front. Now I’m closer to 4.5” s between the fan and the core support. Thoughts????
 
CenTXFJ60 said:
So how close is too close for the gap between the engine and firewall? I just re-tacked the frame mounts and now I’m about 1/2 to maybe 3/4’s of an inch from the fire wall. Maybe even a bit tighter as the motor is clocked to the drivers side. Trying to maximize the front. Now I’m closer to 4.5” s between the fan and the core support. Thoughts????
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I read that some 12ht 60 transplants are super close. So much so the valve cover was tough to get off. That might be the deciding factor. Im going to do the rubber boat roller body mount I think
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw3ipLJY7zOJgP__6n1x8K-z&cshid=1544995684929

That way I can maybe sneak another 1/4" of body lift in.
 
I used HJ47 engine mounts which ended up having around 35mm clearance from the head to the firewall....not quite sure what that is in inches.
I had big issues with the radiator too though, ended up re-fabbing the front apron to suit a modded 60 series radiator - was a heap of work but gave me the fan clearance I was comfortable with. This was all when I installed the 2H but its now a 12ht. Theres some info in a build thread I did....
 
stumpofj40 said:
I used HJ47 engine mounts which ended up having around 35mm clearance from the head to the firewall....not quite sure what that is in inches.
I had big issues with the radiator too though, ended up re-fabbing the front apron to suit a modded 60 series radiator - was a heap of work but gave me the fan clearance I was comfortable with. This was all when I installed the 2H but its now a 12ht. Theres some info in a build thread I did....
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Really appreciate your input. You are close to an inch and a quarter from the fire wall. 25mm equal an inch. I’m closer to 15-20mm from the fire wall. Gina keep it there and now gettingvrhe trans cross member squared away. I have the radiator in the back of my mind. I believe a stock (or aftermarket) 55 radiator will work. Hope to have some pics of my progress by tomorrow.
 
CenTXFJ60 said:
Really appreciate your input. You are close to an inch and a quarter from the fire wall. 25mm equal an inch. I’m closer to 15-20mm from the fire wall. Gina keep it there and now gettingvrhe trans cross member squared away. I have the radiator in the back of my mind. I believe a stock (or aftermarket) 55 radiator will work. Hope to have some pics of my progress by tomorrow.
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Crap...have my glasses on and just recognized all the above typos.
 
Been off this project the last few weeks due to other commitments. We need some suggestions here. Where should we go to get a new /aftermarket radiator for the 55. Did a quick search through this forum and could not find anything. One thread from 2010 referenced the fact no one was remaking these. Thanks for your input.
 
I like the Champion radiator I put into my 60 project. The guys at Champion were really responsive and offered a customization option where they can weld the exit/entry inlets for a small additional fee. I would take measurements of the 55 radiator (core dimensions and mounting flange dimensions) and let them suggest something that might fit.

Here's the info:

Yes sir david,

So there is two options for doing that.

First option, which is called a "delete" and move which would be a visible patch where the outlet used to be and then relocated. This option is $60.00

Second Option, Which is simple called a replate which is exactly what its called, they replace the lower tank which essentially makes it look like it never happened. This option is $80.00.

However, when it comes to the lower tank most will just do the "delete" and move because in most applications the lower tank is not really that visible!

Let me know if you have any other questions i can assist you with!


Sincerely,


Scott Simison
Champion Cooling Systems
Scott@championcooling.com
1-951-245-9464 x 101
1-951-245-9465 - Fax
 
You might not need another source but just in case, there is an outfit here in MI called Howe Racing Enterprises that makes aluminum radiators. They have a large catalog of stock sizes. I put one in my old 65 Mustang and had one of the outlets modded at my buddy's welding shop for beer money. That was a long time ago but the Howe stuff was nice, and reasonably priced.
 
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davegonz said:
I like the Champion radiator I put into my 60 project. The guys at Champion were really responsive and offered a customization option where they can weld the exit/entry inlets for a small additional fee. I would take measurements of the 55 radiator (core dimensions and mounting flange dimensions) and let them suggest something that might fit.

Here's the info:

Yes sir david,

So there is two options for doing that.

First option, which is called a "delete" and move which would be a visible patch where the outlet used to be and then relocated. This option is $60.00

Second Option, Which is simple called a replate which is exactly what its called, they replace the lower tank which essentially makes it look like it never happened. This option is $80.00.

However, when it comes to the lower tank most will just do the "delete" and move because in most applications the lower tank is not really that visible!

Let me know if you have any other questions i can assist you with!


Sincerely,


Scott Simison
Champion Cooling Systems
Scott@championcooling.com
1-951-245-9464 x 101
1-951-245-9465 - Fax
Click to expand...
These are great suggestions. I like the Champion one as well and have one in my 60. So just to confirm before @pregister and I go down the Champion path, there’s not a repro off the shelf we can buy? Also, we don’t have a core to take measurements on, but another mud member shared this pic of his 79 (thinner version) on another thread. Thanks again for all the input.
 
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So I’ve had to let this project sit for a few weeks due to some other obligations that came up. I put the clutch in and finished fitting/tacking the twin-sticks. Will stab the tranny tomorrow if time permits. Overnighted the stud on the shaft and it broke off. Easy enough to weld the washer on as yiu can remove the whole thing from the transmission with a 1” wrench. And I already know my welding sucks :), but it will hold.
 
Been slacking on the updates. Have the drive train mounted where it needs to be. Going with the stock location on the battery and running a K&N like @76FJ4 Michael did on his 45. Everything should clear and requires less modifications to the passenger wheel well area. Will probably mount the PS resivoir to the side of the battery tray. Making some 1/0 AWG cables for the power source. Turned the motor over a bit today. Getting the oil moving around. Have around 4 gallons of diesel in the tank and all new soft lines. For some reason The primer is not pulling fuel to the pump. @too tall did you run the 55 tank? On 60’s they are interchangeable and may be making the wrong assumption with the 55. Here are some photos updating the progress.
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There's a trans tunnel cover up at CD's waitng for you too!
 
Jimmy, check for any air leaking into your fuel lines. Might want to retighten all of the hose clamps to be sure the lift pump isn't sucking in air. Also, are the FJ55 fuel lines Ines smaller than an on an HJ60?

I've also read where the diaphragm can go bad on the fuel filter primer.
 
I did use the 55 tank. I also added a factory toyota sedimenter from a I think a JDM 61 on the frame rail. Sometimes I use a glass tube filter right before the injection pump so I can see if I am drawing air down the line. Very common issue on our rusted out canadian diesel's . 60 series ones seem to fail right where the steel line comes out of the flange on the tank. Sorry if that is no help to you, I don't remember having issues with the 55 tank.
 
dogfishlake said:
There's a trans tunnel cover up at CD's waitng for you too!
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What!!! You are awesome Pat. I owe you for this as it’s not my truck it’s going into. Will connect with yiu offline.
 
too tall said:
I did use the 55 tank. I also added a factory toyota sedimenter from a I think a JDM 61 on the frame rail. Sometimes I use a glass tube filter right before the injection pump so I can see if I am drawing air down the line. Very common issue on our rusted out canadian diesel's . 60 series ones seem to fail right where the steel line comes out of the flange on the tank. Sorry if that is no help to you, I don't remember having issues with the 55 tank.
Click to expand...
davegonz said:
Jimmy, check for any air leaking into your fuel lines. Might want to retighten all of the hose clamps to be sure the lift pump isn't sucking in air. Also, are the FJ55 fuel lines Ines smaller than an on an HJ60?

I've also read where the diaphragm can go bad on the fuel filter primer.
Click to expand...
Hey Dave, so I’m not familiar with any lift pumps in the fuel system. The primer and everything else was working when demoed in October. Talked with Bryan Dyer last night and he gave some good suggestions for priming the system. Will try them on Friday when I’m back from work. I do have another primer I can throw in there as well. Thanks and keep the suggestions coming :)
 
Th
too tall said:
I did use the 55 tank. I also added a factory toyota sedimenter from a I think a JDM 61 on the frame rail. Sometimes I use a glass tube filter right before the injection pump so I can see if I am drawing air down the line. Very common issue on our rusted out canadian diesel's . 60 series ones seem to fail right where the steel line comes out of the flange on the tank. Sorry if that is no help to you, I don't remember having issues with the 55 tank.
Click to expand...
Thats good Info Ed. I believe I’m not doing the. Perfect steps priming. May be due to only having a few gallons of diesel in there. I believe I had 5-10 in my 60 when I did that system and it worked fairly quick.
 
Question for the group...I put in the clutch & slave cylinders (was an automatic). Knowing this came originally as a manual, I thought there would be a bracket on the lower passenger side for the transition from a hard to a soft clutch line. On the 60 there’s a flat 2x2”ish plate attached to the Body that has a clip to secure it (see pics).
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I can’t find anything like this on the 55. No evidence of it being removed That I can detect. Anyone able to shoot me a picture of this area? Thanks Jimmy
 
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