VMJ73 Resto-Not (2 Viewers)

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4.6L is accurate, but I round 8.7549 to an even 9" in conversation, too. :flipoff2:

+1mm, so think it's 4650ccs, but don't recall exactly.

That said, balanced, cryo'd, ported, polished, studded, HC....

If it can be done it was and damn pretty, too!!

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Robbie had the foresight to set up for OBDI (MT ECU) or OBDII.....just in case I changed my mind.

As if....

November is only 2 days away ;)

What time zone are you in?

Haven't talked to Don in a while, but have seen a few project updates and anticipating further delay.

C'est la vie.

No rushing an artiste and will always have some size of canvass to place before him.
 
More like 6" to 9" :flipoff2:

1mm over would be 4566cc. lol.

That is a good looking engine for sure! Should move that little truck like no one's business!

4.6L is accurate, but I round 8.7549 to an even 9" in conversation, too. :flipoff2:

+1mm, so think it's 4650ccs, but don't recall exactly.

That said, balanced, cryo'd, ported, polished, studded, HC....

If it can be done it was and damn pretty, too!!

View attachment 1140879

Robbie had the foresight to set up for OBDI (MT ECU) or OBDII.....just in case I changed my mind.

As if....



What time zone are you in?

Haven't talked to Don in a while, but have seen a few project updates and anticipating further delay.

C'est la vie.

No rushing an artiste and will always have some size of canvass to place before him.
 
So do you plan an running a 1FZ at any point or have you succumbed to the pleasant torque of a non-turbo 1HZ?

Please Chris .. NA Diesel it's just half engine .. turbo it and as an extra value you can save few bucks on muffler .. you ain't gonna need it ..
 
Please Chris..

Well, you did say please....

Who can say no to that??

Turbo'd it is, giving her another reason to maintain the X-clusive badging.

Bahahaha.

Have a long to do list pending.....finishing up wiring, after extracting the fuel cut off, that has become a nemesis project, first rebuilding axles, leafs, and 37s.

On the latter....

Know I can flip the front leafs, pushing the axle forward 2", but can the rears be flipped or even repinned to push the axle back?
 
Will steering bind pushing front forward 2"?

3-4"?

Have an asinine idea to get the axles positioned where they'll run with links, using the leafs, then setting up housings accordingly and using leafs to position for link planning placement, part of the reason for question.
 
Will steering bind pushing front forward 2"?

3-4"?

Have an asinine idea to get the axles positioned where they'll run with links, using the leafs, then setting up housings accordingly and using leafs to position for link planning placement, part of the reason for question.

2" should be fine, after that if be worried about contact between the knuckles and the pitman arm, but hard for me to say without a truck in front of me to look at.

Good idea using the leafs to set up the links, but I would think your links would occupy much of the same space that leafs do so it might not be possible - if it works then great and I will probably copy it.
 
It seems that moving the axle forward 2" on a 70-series (with leaf springs in the front) will cause bind of the steering links under articulation. Moving the axle 1" forward seems to be the more traditional and a commonly used mod to increase clearance for bigger tires (this is the way I have it on my BJ70 with 35" tires) and it seems that 1.5" forward is where things start to bind.

Here are some threads that discuss all these items in detail, and after reading them all, is when I decided that moving the front axle just 1" forward on mine was a "safe" choice for my application:

Fitting 35's on a BJ74

A couple of 70-series owners who have reported to have moved the axle 1" forward with no ill-effects:

A Canadian build of a JDM BJ74 - *TECH ONLY PLEASE - NO CHAT*

Also, in the first link posted, it is mentioned that flipping the spring packs was not a great idea. See posts 42, 43, and 44 of the link below:

Fitting 35's on a BJ74 (explanation can be found on post 49 of the same link)
 
Chuckin' 'em up in a drill press and drilling sounds pretty straightforward.

Don't unpack, drill, slather with ten cans of Rustoleum flat black, and call it a wiener.

Pretty much, just want to get the 37s on to get a feel for gearing with the 4.56s/HZ and a sound basis for pre-op......hopefully perish the thought of 42s in the process. :)
 
Need longer front wheel studs and can't find anything known to work, that's off the shelf at local store

Takers?

Found rears (Dorman 610-416)

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but nothing close to knurl length, shoulder diameter, for front, in the right pitch.

It'd help to know what that is, but can't find conclusive information.

Need 20-25mm longer to feel warm and fuzzy about lugnut engagement and finding nada squat.
 
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Swap is done.

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Bit off more than time allowed on crap I didn't want to do, but "while you're in there" can't not.

Pinion seals swapped, front and rear axle rebuild, now morphing into a full blown brake job
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and stud swap....

Prompted by the downtime waiting for bushings, having toasted a few burning pins....all on axles that were only supposed to be temporary, justified by the perception they'll be worth more when selling, I hope, soon.
 
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Depends, how much time and money are you willing to spend?

Theoretically you could machine a clocking ring (not to be confused with cock ring) but you would need an extension piece for the transmission output shaft.

Might as well just go to an Atlas.
 
Front rotors supersede to '93.....

IS300 wheel studs worked on my dearly departed 80, after cutting down.

Would it be safe to say that IS300 studs are the best/only option to extend the front OEs by 30mm or so?
 
What's wrong with 80 studs?
 
For posterity.

There are no longer replacement studs on this earth, for the front hub, without drilling out both hub and rotor.

IS300 studs DO NOT work in the front, said through gritted teeth having paid for Saturday delivery, unless one is cozy with the rotor being held on by only the two bolts.

So, back to square one.
 

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