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- #261
The Great Gazoo from 1972! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Hugh Heifer
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- #263
A little update. I have been having trouble getting motivated to get in the shop lately as work has really been sapping my energy. But...
I was able to spend a few hours today and was able to get the fender aligned. I disconnected the center mount of the bib and had to cut a little more out around the steering box. (It really sticks out a lot but that's OK.) I will need to make about a 1/2" to 3/4" shim to put under that bib mount but that will work out just fine. The important thing is that the body, front clip and hood all seem to align.
I also finished running all the fuel lines. They are all hooked up though I need to do something to secure them to the frame where they travel from the switch valve.
I also put the ignition wires on and modified the J33p fuel filler to get closer to aligning with the Confer fuel tank. In order to connect that I need a one and a half inch piece of rubber hose with a 45 degree bend in it somewhere. I know they say you should not use radiator hoses but I might do it anyway just to get me going. Don't tell anyone.
I discovered that I wired the highbeam switch backwards
that will be a relatively easy fix. Just need to swap the wires.
I dropped off the jump seats to be recovered a couple weeks ago. I need to check on those.
Finally, I started screwing around with the Ford truck seats I wanted to use. Unfortunately, I did not measure the height of the steering wheel and discovered it is about 2 inches lower than my other 40. That makes the seats not want to fit very well. That is going to take some sorting out.
So there you go. An update.
I was able to spend a few hours today and was able to get the fender aligned. I disconnected the center mount of the bib and had to cut a little more out around the steering box. (It really sticks out a lot but that's OK.) I will need to make about a 1/2" to 3/4" shim to put under that bib mount but that will work out just fine. The important thing is that the body, front clip and hood all seem to align.
I also finished running all the fuel lines. They are all hooked up though I need to do something to secure them to the frame where they travel from the switch valve.
I also put the ignition wires on and modified the J33p fuel filler to get closer to aligning with the Confer fuel tank. In order to connect that I need a one and a half inch piece of rubber hose with a 45 degree bend in it somewhere. I know they say you should not use radiator hoses but I might do it anyway just to get me going. Don't tell anyone.
I discovered that I wired the highbeam switch backwards
that will be a relatively easy fix. Just need to swap the wires.I dropped off the jump seats to be recovered a couple weeks ago. I need to check on those.
Finally, I started screwing around with the Ford truck seats I wanted to use. Unfortunately, I did not measure the height of the steering wheel and discovered it is about 2 inches lower than my other 40. That makes the seats not want to fit very well. That is going to take some sorting out.
So there you go. An update.
- Thread starter
- #264
Bingo.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GAT0/24710.oap?pt=N0065
Edit.... Oh! Amazon Prime $16.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GAT0/24710.oap?pt=N0065
Edit.... Oh! Amazon Prime $16.
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- Thread starter
- #265
I have run into a snag.
I put the driver's seat in and it is way too close to the steering wheel. I figured it was the seat so I was able to get it down to 16 inches from the floor. Then I looked at the my trail rig and realized the steering column is at a weird angle.
The stock height from the floor too the top of the bolsters on the seat is 18". The stock height from the floor to the center of the column at the steering wheel is about 29". I am at 26".
I have mini truck steering in the truck and aligned the steering shaft with the steering box. The box sits on the mount at a 30 degree angle. I can not tilt the shaft up any more without binding the rag joint on the box.
I am at a loss. I guess I am going to have to remove the box and mount and build my own mount that increases the angle of the box. This also explains why the box would not properly clear the fender I guess.
I do not recall where I got the steering box mount. I think it was $20 cheaper than most though the angle looks right compared to Romer's thread.
This is going to be no easy fix. The steering column cover is welded to a plate that is secured to the body and it was powder coated. I will have to get a new mounting plate, a new shaft cover and somehow fab a box mount with a steeper angle. I see no way around this other than ripping the under seat tool box out and mounting the seat almost to the floor. The driver would then be about 10" below stock and it would be like riding in a rat rod. Not doing that.
s***. I never measured the height of the column because the geometry at the box determined it. I considered just changing it all over to Saginaw but that would present it's own set of problems. Like a different front bumper.
I was average at geometry and do not recall any formulas. Given the length of the shaft, I think I should be able to determine how many degrees the box should move in order to give myself 3" at the other end of the shaft. Anyone know that formula?
I put the driver's seat in and it is way too close to the steering wheel. I figured it was the seat so I was able to get it down to 16 inches from the floor. Then I looked at the my trail rig and realized the steering column is at a weird angle.
The stock height from the floor too the top of the bolsters on the seat is 18". The stock height from the floor to the center of the column at the steering wheel is about 29". I am at 26".
I have mini truck steering in the truck and aligned the steering shaft with the steering box. The box sits on the mount at a 30 degree angle. I can not tilt the shaft up any more without binding the rag joint on the box.
I am at a loss. I guess I am going to have to remove the box and mount and build my own mount that increases the angle of the box. This also explains why the box would not properly clear the fender I guess.
I do not recall where I got the steering box mount. I think it was $20 cheaper than most though the angle looks right compared to Romer's thread.
This is going to be no easy fix. The steering column cover is welded to a plate that is secured to the body and it was powder coated. I will have to get a new mounting plate, a new shaft cover and somehow fab a box mount with a steeper angle. I see no way around this other than ripping the under seat tool box out and mounting the seat almost to the floor. The driver would then be about 10" below stock and it would be like riding in a rat rod. Not doing that.
s***. I never measured the height of the column because the geometry at the box determined it. I considered just changing it all over to Saginaw but that would present it's own set of problems. Like a different front bumper.
I was average at geometry and do not recall any formulas. Given the length of the shaft, I think I should be able to determine how many degrees the box should move in order to give myself 3" at the other end of the shaft. Anyone know that formula?
hmmmm... on my truck I had to use a mount that was from bills design... I think Orange45 sells them now.
will this thing help you http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html what ever the distance of A is add 3" so based on your post above A=29 if you just get the distance of B it should calculate the rest.
will this thing help you http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html what ever the distance of A is add 3" so based on your post above A=29 if you just get the distance of B it should calculate the rest.
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- Thread starter
- #267
Thanks for the link Aaron. I am also considering adding a Borgenson double d to double d u joint just above the rag joint. I am not certain I have room for that though between the rag joint and the firewall.
No matter what I will need another steering shaft cover tube (post rag joint) so if you happen to know where a pile of them reside
...I should take a couple pics so folks understand the issue. Not sure the explanation is totally clear.
The only good thing is that this will not keep me from getting it on the road. But since it is hard to get to the brake pedal without hitting the steering wheel I don't want to drive it much.
Posted from a brick.
- Thread starter
- #268
Here is the deal:
Angle is bad. To close to the seat.
You can see here that the shaft is totally straight in line with the steering box and where it enters the firewall.
Here you see the inside of the firewall. I used a 4+ mount and welded the shaft cover to the mount to ensure we have a good safe mount. So these two parts need to be replaced in order to alter the angle.
The solution is a Borgeson double D to Double D universal incorporated in the steering shaft just above the rag joint and before the firewall. Anyone have a problem with that?
Posted from a brick.
Angle is bad. To close to the seat.
You can see here that the shaft is totally straight in line with the steering box and where it enters the firewall.
Here you see the inside of the firewall. I used a 4+ mount and welded the shaft cover to the mount to ensure we have a good safe mount. So these two parts need to be replaced in order to alter the angle.
The solution is a Borgeson double D to Double D universal incorporated in the steering shaft just above the rag joint and before the firewall. Anyone have a problem with that?
Posted from a brick.
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- Thread starter
- #269
Got the universal yesterday and the lcwizard mounting plate is in the mail. Radioridge has a shaft cover for me so I will get that at GSMTR.
In the mean time, this might be the weekend to fire her up.
In the mean time, this might be the weekend to fire her up.
Hey, pick me up a shaft cover, too.
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- #271
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- #272
SOR calls it a "steering column tube."
Awww, that's so sweet you remembered!
Seriously, I have one if you don't score elsewhere. 'Course it might be a little big.
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- #275
Thanks Ed, I think Andy has me "covered".
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- #276
All fluids are in it but gas. Brakes and clutch bled. Got the drivers side aligned but now the passenger side is off.
Horns We are going to try to start her tomorrow.
Posted from a brick.
- Thread starter
- #277
Edit: Well those didn't turn out very well.
Posted from a brick.
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- Thread starter
- #278
Well. The fuel pump is bad it seems.
So Advance Auto parts for either $54 by Airtex with a one year warranty, $123 from Beck/Arnley with a 90 day warranty or whatever Mr. Yota wants for one with no warranty?
I think I will go with the cheap one since the truck will end up sitting in storage for quite a while starting next Januaryish.
So Advance Auto parts for either $54 by Airtex with a one year warranty, $123 from Beck/Arnley with a 90 day warranty or whatever Mr. Yota wants for one with no warranty?
I think I will go with the cheap one since the truck will end up sitting in storage for quite a while starting next Januaryish.
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Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Ok, reading thru this thread from the start tonight, and saw your special tool. I'm in the process of pulling the transmission today, and used a pry bar wedged between the studs and the to the frame to remove the stake nut. It worked, and I thought about rigging a tool like yours, but fortunately the pry bar method worked.
Your version is simpler than my idea though. I was going to drill 2 holes.
