matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
Bearing
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Is your engine now "clocked" as well?
Thanks Drew!It is. The 3F bellhousing slightly rotates the transmission to the right. That's why you have to match the crossmember to the bellhousing that you use. It also explains why the shift is a little close to you if you use the 2F bellhousing since it's made to work with the rotated bellhousing..
That's why I just stayed with a 2F bellhousing and modified it to fit the "ears" of the H55f input bearing cover. Then I could stay with my stock crossmember and all the angles came out right.
Nope. Engine is straight.
Thanks Drew!
Interesting. I had no idea. What was the purpose of this and what are your thoughts on my setup then? The frame is a '71 and the cross member is adapted from an early FJ60.
My only concern is that I set up the rear cross member with the 2F bellhousing that I had moded for the "ears" so I may be putting a bit of stress on the rear rubber mount on the tranny.
I am a bit relieved. I thought I had f#cked up but good
Redoing the crossmember is no biggy. It is bolted in. Have you any idea why the 5 degree tilt was added to that bellhousing?I'd run it with the 2F Bellhousing or redo the crossmember. I would not want that strain on the rear mount-it will break and they are $$.
Redoing the crossmember is no biggy. It is bolted in. Have you any idea why the 5 degree tilt was added to that bellhousing?
How's it runnin', btw ?
Got any ideas where to source a re-build kit for an H55?
Thanks,
John
Well thanks. I know that this case is way far gone as you will see from the picks that Steve asked for. But also I think that as Bret pointed out, what I would expect to see is large shavings on the magnetic plug once it goes into service as it begins to deteriorate. At that point I will be willing to rebuild again. I am not kidding myself by thinking this thing is going to last 50K miles or even maybe 10K but if the bearings don't get thrashed I will not mind getting into it again and doing another.
For me this is a hobby and if I come up with something that works I will be pleased. I also figure this thread - good or bad parts included, will be useful down the road.
What I did not realize was that the retainer should be very loose as the FSM says you need a puller to remove it. It came out easily once I got the puller under it. I had troule just getting the puller on it.
Everything is still round, so that it a good thing. The gear teeth are another story and I am certain I will have problems down the road. Sorry for the huge pics but I did them 2 meg so you guys could enjoy the damage (This appears to be the worst of what I could find and note that there is considerable amount of PB anti corrosion spray on them):
So pile on!